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I have a 97 mitsu galant, Nakamichi CD 35Z, JBL BP300.1, and Hifonics Tarus X 50X4. I have wicked engine noise when my motor downshifts. It is best characterized by a high whining sound that is incremental with engine RPM's. This has been a problem with both the Nakamichi power my speakers and my Hifonics powering them. The grounds are all less than a foot long, the only "violation" of usual engine noise reduction that I am guilty of is that I have my RCA's run alongside my REMOTE wire. I figured there was not that much current going thru the line and it wouldn't make that much of a difference. If anyone can help out here I'd very much so appreciate it.
Posts: 9 | From: Baton Rouge, Louisiana | Registered: May 2003
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i wouldn't worry about either one of those... chances are about 80% that its coming from behind your head unit... what you should do is take the head unit out, redirect all wire(from like air conditioning, heater, cig lighter, away from your head unit. next run your rcas on the other side away from all those, and your head unit power. By the way for those wondering, the remote turn on is a positive wire from your battery. inside your deck there is a current limiting ic from the head unit... do you think remote turn on just magically appears? checking your grounds is a good thing to do, but i would open up behind your head unit and clean everything up...
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i had the same problem as you, and all i did was buy a ground loop isolator. it costs 8 bucks, takes about 2 minutes to install, and will cure the engine noise problem.
Posts: 3619 | From: auburn, al | Registered: Nov 2002
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I hate engine noise. I had it for the longest time until I figured out it was coming from my MTX amp. I ended up replacing them with JBL's which was a nice upgrade if you ask me. Somewhere I read about making a noise sniffing device with the head that reads tapes. By connecting it to your RCA's and through your amp you can place it in the area of suspected intereference and listen for any noise.
Posts: 5 | From: Manhattan,KS | Registered: Oct 2002
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A ground-loop isolator doesn't cure the problem, just masks it. So the problem is still there, you just can't hear it. I'm not trying to be an arse-hole, but if you buy a ground loop isolator and don't have a ground loop(which it sounds like he doesn't)it wont cure or mask anything.
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This is what fixed my problem! The problem was in my RCA's! I isolated each RCA and found the noise was coming from one of the 3 pair. I replaced them with monster cable and the sound was gone and extremely quiet! You can get the Purple Monster RCA's from Fry's CHEAP and they are very good for starter street system. Go higher end if you can afford them!
Posts: 11 | From: Houston | Registered: May 2003
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Thank you all for the suggestions. I will get on it soon. Probably this afternoon. I suppose my first method of testing will be the RCA's. I'll pull the deck and run my car, deck out, and see if I still have noise. My grounds are scraped and sanded already. I know those aren't the issue. My power and RCA's are on opposing sides of my car. My ground wire however passes near my RCA's at their point of entry. I'll try to re-route those if the RCA's do not prove to be the problem. Worse comes to worse, I can always try the ground loop isolator. Again, thank you for the suggestions. I will keep you all posted.
Posts: 9 | From: Baton Rouge, Louisiana | Registered: May 2003
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Also note, in the back of the Mitsubishi the wiring is already very clean. The wires are all directed away from my deck as it stands. Basically they are all in conduits run along the tops of the DIN area. There isn't much room to go with them if I could.
Posts: 9 | From: Baton Rouge, Louisiana | Registered: May 2003
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Sounds like a nice system, and I'd bet it's done up right, including beefing up of grounds. Have you had your charging circuit tested? Pay attention to the alternator (i just replied to similar post) chances are that a diode has burnt out (part or the charging circuit in voltage regulator, built into most alernators), and it will require replacing the alternator, and possibly beefing up the wiring to it. BTW , tell me you are using a relay to turn on both amplifiers, The Nak's remote lead doesn't have enough to run 2 amps, and can also be the cause of the noise.
-------------------- E.C. Wuz here Posts: 1057 | From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada 'eh | Registered: May 1999
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quote:Originally posted by Eli47: Sounds like a nice system, and I'd bet it's done up right, including beefing up of grounds. Have you had your charging circuit tested? Pay attention to the alternator (i just replied to similar post) chances are that a diode has burnt out (part or the charging circuit in voltage regulator, built into most alernators), and it will require replacing the alternator, and possibly beefing up the wiring to it. BTW , tell me you are using a relay to turn on both amplifiers, The Nak's remote lead doesn't have enough to run 2 amps, and can also be the cause of the noise.
Check everything before the alt. Yes this can happen, but one expensive problem that you wish you didn't have. As far as the remote lead causing noise, it could, but not the noise you have.
quote:Originally posted by gir: The grounds are all less than a foot long,
I just noticed this. You have 2 seperate grounds? If so this would be the first thing I looked at. Get a dist. block and get them grounded to the same spot. Having 2 seperate grounds causes a difference in potential which in turn causes noise.
I have fully gutted my stereo. Started from square one. I am also selling my sub and amp for it. Decided to go turbo instead of go stereo. Sorry fellas. I rewired the entire setup so that my Hifonics now sits under my passenger's seat. I ground to a bolt on the inner frame near where the passenger's right foot would fall. This setup, coupled with an entire new re-routing of the RCA's has yielded far better results. I wonder though if this is only because my sub is no longer hooked up.
Side note:If you can take the hit on the shipping, becuase I'm not about to shuck out to ship it...I'll sell my JL 12w3 D2, V2 in the box (JL normal spec non-carpeted and rolled port flare) for 225 and my JBL for 140. The JL is like maybe 6 months old...I doubt it. Was pushed at exact RMS from the JBL. Nak deck ensured good signal. Thus, i'm pretty confident this speaker is in good shape. Please post up your email addresses if you are intersted. Buyers will pay all shipping and handling for this setup.
Posts: 9 | From: Baton Rouge, Louisiana | Registered: May 2003
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