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Author Topic: Need Charging System ADVICE PLEASE!!!
BoomTillitHz
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Hi guys, I have asked this question numerous times on other forums and have yet to recieve a decent answer and was referred here...so here goes:

I want to install in my 1996 S-10 Blazer a:
Kenwood eXcelon 915 h/u
Kenwood 9044 EQ/Crossover
Phoenix Gold Bass Cube
Audio Control Epicenter
EarthQuake PH2.4 running front component set (MB Quart PSC-316)
EarthQuake PH2.4 running rear component set (MB Quart PSC-216)
*3* Earth Quake PowerHouse D2s powering
*6* Audiobahn AW1205s.

Now, my problem is my charging system...I want to compete alot (as much as I can) but this system is NOT for competing only!!! I will most likely only have 2 of those PHD2s running at once, all 3 to show off occasionally. I would like to get by with only 2 PHD2s but I have been told the impedance from 3 1205s will be too much for the amp.
What do I need to do with my chargin system??? Currently I sport a stock Delco 105 ampere alternator and a 950CCA Duralast GOLD battery. Ive been told 200+ ampere alternator, LOTS of batteries, LOTS of capacitors...but no real logical answer. What do you guys think I should do?

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Craig R. Collier
3 Year Amateur Car Audio Enthusiast
"There is no such thing as TOO much bass"


Posts: 25 | From: Ledbetter | Registered: Jul 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Audiophyle
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I would install your equipment, then, have a nice day. IF you plan on running that system full bore more than 70% of the time, I'd consider getting an aftermarket high output alternator. Since music is dynamic, I personally wouldn't be concerned, unless your just going to be beating the hell out of the system. You didn't mention what amp will be running the front end of the system.
Since your sub amps are class "D" I simply wouldn't get concerned, unless you start having problems with dead batteries after the install.

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Ron Hawkins

Sometimes the majority only means that all the fools are on the same side.

Use your ears to judge components, NOT your wallet! K.I.S.S.

members.tripod.com/Audiophyle

Sound Ideas on the Web!


Posts: 3120 | From: nowhere | Registered: May 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
VegaS10
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I agree with Audiophyle. Or, what you could do (kinda impractical) is hook up the amps in the back of the truck throw some subs in there and watch the voltage. If it starts to dip bad.....then add room in the amp rack for batteries.

Shocker S10 had his alternator rebuilt in his 99 S-10. They rewound it from 105 amp to 170. And they changed the heatsink on the alt. to a more efficient design.

Bastteries may be necessary, but don't worry, wiring them up is not difficult, besides, if you can wire up that system yourself. The batteries will be a snap.

Don't think of capacitors...The topic of capacitors has been covered many times on this forum in the past. You could do a search for capacitors and get alot of info.

Don't worry about the electrical system though....it really isnt hard to put the additional stuff in if ya need it.

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www.nsplcompetition.com
Loudestyet@aol.com

"Why do they have Braile lettering at Drive-Thru ATM"s?"


Posts: 9036 | From: Linden, NC | Registered: Jan 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
BoomTillitHz
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THANKS ALOT guys, those have been the 2 most logical answers that I have recieved to this question out of countless others. Audiophyle, I did mention what amp would be running the front of the system; an EarthQuake PH2.4 powering 3 way MB Quart Component sets. Another PH2.4 will be running the rear component sets.

Ive been told that if you rewind your alternator that it shortens the alts life as well as strain it more. I was told this on the forum at www.carsound.com . They also said that if I get an aftermarket high current alternator that it might not work well at low RPMs, that most high current alts. work most efficiently at high rpms.

I will be pounding the system quite alot (normal driving times and cruising weekends), but I made a mistake...Ill only be running 1 of the PHD2s for normal driving around, when I get a wild hair Ill kick on another one to really get things moving, and occasionally (aside from competition) Ill kick on number 3 to make people have bowel movements.

Was the advice for not wiring 3 Audiobahn AW1205s to 1 PHD2 correct? Will that be too much for it to handle? I thought of this idea to keep the strain on my electrical system down, but if I can get by with using 3 then by golly Im gonna do it
Thanks again you guys.

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Craig R. Collier
3 Year Amateur Car Audio Enthusiast
"There is no such thing as TOO much bass"


Posts: 25 | From: Ledbetter | Registered: Jul 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
monsterj
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boomtillithz

if you really are worried you might look at installing a second alt in your truck . bieng a 96 it will be a 4.3 maybe a 2.8 but you should have lots of room as long as you dont mind losing a few horsies. ive heard it can be difficult an left to professionals. but hey you can try ...just a though any arguments ar welcome i am interested ....

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Posts: 52 | From: canada | Registered: Jul 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
InvisibleBass
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I'm kinda curious on how you plan on running one amp then switching to two or three?!? How does that work?
However, I think I have an idea that may help you(I out did myself this time )
Why not wire up all three amps, turn the gains down and make a remote gain adjuster? I'm sure your local car audio shop can do this for you for relatively cheap. Then you have the benefit of having all three amps running at one time without worrying about your electrical system and when you get the urge, crank the gains. US amps has a great design, their remote gain controls allow you to lower or increase the gain but will not allow you to raise them beyond what they are set at the amps. This way you could leave the gains on the amp set for comps and just turn it down from the drivers seat when you are just driving around. I think it would work, let me know what you think

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Posts: 620 | From: North Canton, Ohio | Registered: May 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Jeffyboy
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Hello,

Well, I'd assume he'd have switches on the remote turn-ons of all three amps so he could control which amp/subs were running. I'd say that if you're only running one most of the time, you'll be alright to put it in first and see what you need later. Adding a second battery wouldn't hurt, either. I rewound my alternator in my Olds from 120 amp to 145 and it got hot. Never burnt up, but it did get pretty warm and stayed like that for a long time with the engine off. I ran it for a year with no problems before I sold the car.

Jeff

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Jeff
http://www.sounddomain.com/4195
http://www.ilstu.edu/~jjbrodb


Posts: 169 | From: Hicksville, IL | Registered: May 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
BoomTillitHz
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Yes I will be running each remote turn on lead to an independant switch so I can run 1, 2, or all 3 at once. How will they be able to make a remote gain control for that particular amp...I know some amps come with a built in port that looks like a phone jack for remote gain controls.

Any more suggestions are welcome

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Craig R. Collier
3 Year Amateur Car Audio Enthusiast
"There is no such thing as TOO much bass"


Posts: 25 | From: Ledbetter | Registered: Jul 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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