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distortion2100
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What should I change in my car so my voltage don't drop more then 13.5V?

I curently have a Grand AM GT 2004 V6 with ...
Redtop 650 CCA batt
160A high output alt
3 farrad Cap

Im trying to run a MA HK802SX with 2 new 12" strokers bridged @ 1 OHM

at 1/3 way up my voltage drops 2.5 - 3 volts at 2000 RPM'S

Thanx

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Crazyjoker2
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More wire!!

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team basket kase
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Ditch the cap! Use a better source of reserve power.

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IceWaLL
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quote:
Originally posted by team basket kase:
Ditch the cap! Use a better source of reserve power.

yes use all deep cycle batteries FTW!

for example I had a stock battery on a mtx1501d and voltage dropped pretty bad on my rsx.

upgraded to 1 small deep cycle up front and a large one out back and get less the 1 volt drop on an autotek mm4000.1d RPMs dont even budge while idling at full tilt!

seeing as you have a pretty good charging setup and are still getting voltage drop you need a larger reserve power / batteries.

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eclipse cd5000
2 peerles csc-x 5" / 2 lcy 110's
audioque hd312
3.05 cu ft 52.5sq in port tuned to 29hz
if u port it, bass will come!


I've turned SQ!!!!! but i still crave the bass!

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BillGass
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quote:
Originally posted by team basket kase:
Ditch the cap! Use a better source of reserve power.

Definately ditch the cap & upgrade the battery. Caps generally hurt systems as they don't have enough energy to sustain the burp, or bass note onthe street, & once they give up what they have they are then drawing on your electrical system in addition to your amp. Counter productive unless you can give it, say 400 farads.

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bassfreek17
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batcap?

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two 15" l7s
us amps 2000

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splferrell
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ma amps are, well lets just say power hungry

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DeepHitters Magazine
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What is the difference in watts when you play at 12.7 and then at 14.4?

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hardknocks
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you also want to look at what gauge wire you are running this plays a big part in voltage drop as well. My old setup had 0gauge wire going back to 4 caps and 3 batteries and off the the caps to the amps i had 4 gauge wire and 8 gauge to the subs with .5 voltage drop with 4000 watts 200 amp alt.

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4-RF T215d2
6-rf power 7 power componet
8-planet audio 900ds
1- 250 amp alt
1- 300 amp alt
2-15 LCDs
2-7.2 montors
10-yellow top batteries

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Too loud for tv
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MA amps are HOGS!!!!!! still upgrade wire and get some batts!

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(1)(Autotek MM 4000.1)
(2) 18" RE SX's)
(13.2 Cubes Tuned 32hz)
(RE Audio FTMFW)
(maxxsonics FTMFW)

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dynasty128
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more runs to the back or put extra batteries in the rear

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Absolute Car Audio ltd
Distributors of Atomic speakers in Canada
www.absolutecaraudio.ca http://www.sounddomain.com/id/bmwx5yo

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AudioStylz722
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This is exactly what I keep telling people why Farad Cap suck but nobody wants to beleive me until they have this very problem. (not saying i told the original poster what to do, this is other people that I deal with on a local scene)

I agree. Dump the Cap, upgrade the wire (im assuming your using 4 awg??) If so, upgrade to 1/0. Then add in a 2nd Red Top battery. This should solve all problems. Also, did you upgrade your batteries stock ground?? If not, do it, it will help.

Remember the big 3; Upgrade wires to at least 4 awg from alt to battery, battery ground to chassis ground. Alternator (which you have), and at least 2 batteries.

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Mike Zadler

2003 Usaci 151.2@48hz (AudioControl 170)
2003 AS3: 149.6@39hz (Linx Meter)
2004 S4: 145.2@41hz (TermLab)
2005 M1: 149.3@69hz
Retired indefinately. Still into car audio to help others where I can.

Posts: 3022 | From: I don't just want to knock over the pins, I WANT TO VIOLATE EM!!!! | Registered: Jun 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
SLAB
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^^^^
this guy just told you exactly how to get louder

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It's all in the box.

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Leo J
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quote:
Originally posted by distortion2100:
What should I change in my car so my voltage don't drop more then 13.5V?

I curently have a Grand AM GT 2004 V6 with ...
Redtop 650 CCA batt
160A high output alt
3 farrad Cap

Im trying to run a MA HK802SX with 2 new 12" strokers bridged @ 1 OHM

at 1/3 way up my voltage drops 2.5 - 3 volts at 2000 RPM'S

Thanx

Get rid of the red top and replace with yellowtop or Kinetic Cells batteries one in fron and one in rear,upgrade wiring and replace cap with Alumapro cap
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SLAB
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dump the cap idea all together......

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It's all in the box.

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Leo J
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If you get rid of the cap you will get dimming for sure.
Posts: 6 | From: Bklyn N.Y | Registered: Oct 2006  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
lanman31337
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quote:
Originally posted by Leo J:
If you get rid of the cap you will get dimming for sure.

Definitely not true.
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mtxbird
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quote:
Originally posted by Leo J:
If you get rid of the cap you will get dimming for sure.

lol i doubt u will even notice.i would ditch the cap.but if u want to upgrade everything keep the cap do a voltage test then take the cap out and do a voltage test.

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04 extreme blazer
1 atomic apx 18
6000wrms

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AudioStylz722
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Leo, I agree with the battery change from Red Top to Yellow Top or the even better battery Kinetik doing that would deffinately be a great idea.

I, however, dissagree with dumping the cap and having dimming problems for sure. I've had people with severe dimming problems, I yank out the cap in their system and their severe dimming problem went to mild problems. Yes they still had dimming but now it was only half as bad, and he also gained 2db at the next show! Did the big 3 before the next show, gained 1.1db. Upgraded to better batteries, up another .6 db. Upgraded the alt from 140A output to 200a output and yet again gained another .4 db!! All of that yeilded a 4.1db increase!! Now each vehical is different and results will vary.

The Fared Cap idea was invented with a great idea in mind but in all reality they usually just clutter up the trunk of your car, take up space, and just add to the already crazy wiring jungle!

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Mike Zadler

2003 Usaci 151.2@48hz (AudioControl 170)
2003 AS3: 149.6@39hz (Linx Meter)
2004 S4: 145.2@41hz (TermLab)
2005 M1: 149.3@69hz
Retired indefinately. Still into car audio to help others where I can.

Posts: 3022 | From: I don't just want to knock over the pins, I WANT TO VIOLATE EM!!!! | Registered: Jun 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
big noiz
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Good batteries

Good alt.

Good wires

Big 3 upgrade

Clean connections

No dimming /

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Team Bass Coat

MTX
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In loving memory of my sister Kerry Ann Johnson 1970 - 2008

The only true constant in the universe is change

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GA Loan
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atleast 2 good batts., 0 gauge wire, sr200 isolater, & big alt.

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tekk45
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Upgrade your alt, add an external, user controlled regulator. Use a D31M optima blue top(900CCA) battery underhood. One run 0/gauge from front to rear batteries on both positive and negative. One Northstar batteries NSB-G3100 in the trunk. Run 0/gauge to the amp. Use a minumum of 8 gauge speaker wire. Build a divided chamber, slotted port box. 2.0 cu/ft per chamber net volume. Make the ports 12"Hx2"Wx31"L. Make sure you round off the port corners otherwise you may get a whistle or chuffing noise at higher volumes. Fire the subs/ports backwards. Build the box out of 3/4"MDF and make sure it is leak free. Heres a link to give you an idea of box design.http://caraudiofactory.com/dual-transmission-line-advanced-slot-ported-p-124.html
I hope this helps and please understand this is just my humble opinion.
Team Neo - Eric

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dB Doc
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Drop the cap. You'd be better off using a Kinetik 800. I also agree with everyone else as far as the wire upgrade with good grounds. Listen to some of the post before me. They are telling you some great things to do.

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TEAM KINETIK'S Dentist
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