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OK, the Stroker project is underway, but have another project to finish in the meantime.
Putting a 15" RF DVC in an extended cab and want to glass the bottom. I practiced with the glass for the first time today and would like some advice (I tried looking on the old forum, but the old messages are all gone!)
1. What are some handy tools to use to make the process easier? 2. What is the best (Strong yet affordable) material to use and how many layers for a sub box? Just the fiberglass mat, or grill cloth or what? 3. How do you seal the wood to the glass? Is it as easy as setting the box onto the glass while it is still wet?
Thanks for the help in advance. I don't know how I'd get this done without you guys!
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Posts: 185 | From: Dijon, France | Registered: Jun 1999
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The strongest stuff, but hard to work with, is the stringy glass matt. I would use the stretchy material like grill cloth to make the form then start cutting sections of matt to put into the different area's of the kick (or whatever) to strengthen it. There is a roller spikey tool that can be convenient to push air pockets out of glass. Large formed spans can be made with chain link fencing (I did this) then you can start glassing on this to have a complex large shape. Rough up the wood in areas you want the glass to stick well. Experiment too, we all keep discovering new things that work nice.
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Yep, exactly what Tech said. Just scuff up the edges or the parts of the wod that you are attaching the glass to and just start glassing onto the wood. Trust me the wood will hold to the fiberglass when it hardens, trust me!
------------------ 4 DD 9515-2's 2 VLX-400's And a big ported box!!
Posts: 261 | From: School - Drexel University | Registered: Jun 1999
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Cool, thanks. I was worried about the box and the glass holding. Not anymore.
also tech, do you mean the stuff with lots of fibers and is a freaking mess or the woven stuff that looks like a cloth? I have a bunch of the cloth free from my father in law (He's not so bad after all). The other isn't too expensive, which would you recommend.
Also, how many layers of clothe or mat would be necessary for this project?
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Posts: 185 | From: Dijon, France | Registered: Jun 1999
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I've found that layer by layer the stringy stuff is stronger. But hey, you got the cloth free, just put a little extra on. Should be fine. Make sure you get the glass thoroughly soaked in. I can't see the box obviously so I don't know how much thickness would be required. 4 or 5 layers ? maybe. Story: When I was doing the glass work on the top portion of my wall I had just finished the first layer of the stringy stuff over the mold. The box had fallen over after the stuff was setup and it struck on pavement on the fiblerglass. Full weight of the box, wood and all. The shape wasn't compromised and there was only a small crack in the side. 3 layers later and it's 'kick and hit with a ball bat' tough.
Great story! I did notice that with my practice pieces last weekend that the larger flat areas tended to bend and flex (only 2 layers) while the areas with curves and corners were stronger. Does this suggest that there might be less flex in a glass box with some ribs along the bottom?
Also, did you attach any braces to the areas where you glassed?
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Posts: 185 | From: Dijon, France | Registered: Jun 1999
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Mastap, here is the lowdown for ya... It don't matter what kind of glass you use... The "Fiberglass Mat" is just easier to form around complex curves and such... It will be twice as strong as the same thickness of wood "IF" it is not flat, fiberglass gets its strenth from irregular shapes and such... I like to use 5 ounce wax coated dixie cups to hold resin and to mix resin in and I use el cheapo paint brushes to apply resin and remove air bubbles... Tech was dead on when he said rough up the wood where you plan on applying glass, I use glass to seal my MDF box seams and I have blown up boxes and found the glass to still be the only thing holding, I will bet that it is better than wood screws... On large projects I put food coloring in my resin so I know I have 100% coverage for each layer... 1/2 inch of fiberglass will be stronger than a 1" peice of MDF as long as the fiberglass is not flat...
------------------ Would you like fries with that???
Posts: 186 | From: Grande Prairie, Alberta, Canada | Registered: May 1999
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How do you go about making irregular shapes when you are working on a flat area? Just put a few small objects underneath to make it more irregular?
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Posts: 185 | From: Dijon, France | Registered: Jun 1999
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When you are working in a flat area try to use MDF where you can. This will make the fiberglass much stronger and it will not flex. and you don't have to layer that much glass on it to be as strong.
------------------ 4 DD 9515-2's 2 VLX-400's And a big ported box!!
Posts: 261 | From: School - Drexel University | Registered: Jun 1999
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I hadn't realized that I posted this elsewhere....It'll cover two of you ???'s First, the top part of my wall needed to be a complex shape to form to the car from the mid section up to the roof. I built what I could out of wood and then attached chain link fence to the open area's needing glass. I pushed the top box into place and bent the fence material to contour with the car. By the way the fence material was cut to fit and attached by bending stray wires around screws into the wood. I then pulled the box and glassed over the new complex shape. This explains the shape, and strength, and the extra anchorage, screws. ;~)
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That must have been a ton of work, Tech. Amazing the amount of effort we'll put into this crap isn't it?
Anyway, the project got started this weekend, should have pics to post sometime this week.
I got the frame of the box and amp rack built, started glass the box. I use that cloth to glass the corners of the box for reinforement, then put resin over the entire surface of the inside of the box to make it more airtight. Seems to work very well. Even before I brace it, the box is VERY solid. The cloth is MUCH easier to work with than that mat stuff. Much better for small little areas like joints and stuff.
Wish me luck on the rest of the project!
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Posts: 185 | From: Dijon, France | Registered: Jun 1999
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I was going to add (guess I've been a little absent lately) that it's easiest to make the frame of the box and put it in place first, with no top, and then glass from the inside to the floor. Also, if the glass will be backed up by something like a floor you can get away with about 1/4". Line the floor with a garbage bag(s) first so the box can come out in the future.
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And that's the bottom line, cuz: LORD DUKK SAYS SO!
The Big Show The Dukk says: Know your bass: PORT your damn box!! Have HoleSaw, Will Travel!
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The best tool is a hammer, so break the glass mann. "ride it ronchy!" so said the devil. Welcome to the WILD WILD WEST sang a fellow nigga. The cheez is old and moldy said polley shore. then the leprechauns came to take me away.put them on the glass said zack moore.
I am cowboy chip, I am going to beat you with my whip, little kids run, as fast as they can, just to get away from my molesting hand.
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Dukk, that was the plan, but to reinforce the joints for the top of the box where the sub sits, I wanted to glass those joints. I think it helped a lot. The combination of me using a circular saw and some irregular pieces made for some small gaps...
Good idea, though, but I'll stick to the original plan. Thankx
------------------ RF Bass 225.2 DVC 15
Posts: 185 | From: Dijon, France | Registered: Jun 1999
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HA! They don't call a circular saw a Skill Saw for nothin! I still find it faster to use the ol' skill saw than my table. I guess 10 years was a long time to finally buy a table eh?
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And that's the bottom line, cuz: LORD DUKK SAYS SO!
The Big Show The Dukk says: Know your bass: PORT your damn box!! Have HoleSaw, Will Travel!
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yeah, no kidding. I couldn't cut straight if I wanted to with a damn skill saw if a tried a hundred times. And nobody I know has a table saw large enough to rip sheets with... Oh well, just keeps it interesting!
I got all of the joints glassed on the box, ready to put braces in, but this thing is already like a tank with those glassed joints. Can't believe how much stronger it made the box! A lot of work, and a huge mess, but this stuff might acutally be worth it
------------------ RF Bass 225.2 DVC 15
Posts: 185 | From: Dijon, France | Registered: Jun 1999
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LOL.... no kidding man... but when you are a Field Service Engineer for a company who pays well, you can afford nice *****like that. Hmm.. too bad i probably wont.... ah well.
------------------ 2 MTX Thunder 3000 12" Power Acoustik 500x2 130watts x 2 Can you say DISTORTION!?
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