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I've got a question for a box i'm going to make. First,I want to do it right the first time. The box is going to have 2 of the Solo-Baric 10" Silver Ann. Chrome basket subs, so I will use a 3/4" plexi baffle, for the eye candy of this subs..Kicker recommends .66 sealed enclosure vol.. I"ll be running them in a mono-load so I do'nt need a divider between the two subs right.? Because it'll have mirrors inside and I don't want to block the view. And do you also use dry-wall screws with plexi ?
Posts: 91 | From: Southern~~~~Mississippi | Registered: Jul 1999
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Wheals, I would use a center divider because it makes a great brace. I would not want to put in any other braces so that I could keep the asthetic appeal. You really should put a brace in there somewhere to keep the box solid.
You could put mirrors on all five sides (Top, bottom, left, right, and back) and that will give the appearence of a huge number of subs.
Just a thought. =)
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Posts: 305 | From: Brooklyn, New York, USA | Registered: Aug 1999
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D A. if I really have to, I'm not sure yet,"solid"or with "holes", i'll make damn sure,because I want this box to be the done the very best way,because its gonna cost $$'s I want the subs. to perform at their best the first time, with no (screw-ups) or (regrets) i'm going to use a combination "carbon-fiber" and "mirrors" maybe one neon, on the sides (don't know which yet), figure out that when I get to that point.Anyway thats why I posted here is to get some feedback and answers. Gota split, see ya !
------------------ Thanks... !! Rock'n The World !!
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I just got done building one of these for a friend of mind but with only one sub. How big is the glass top going to be? I do agree with the statment about the divider for a center brace. That will saport the glass top very well. Or maybe not a diveider but a brace across the top just to saport the glass.
As for bolting the glass down I layed out the holes on the paper back being sure to keep them all spaced out equaly and in a staight line. Then use a small bit to drill the holes. Then use a bit that is gust bigger then the threads of the screws you are going to use. And finaly I used a bit as big as the head screws to counter sink the head down. When drilling the last two I mention DO NOT USE LOTS OF PRESSURE. The bitt will grab and crack the glass.
For screwing the subs down I use T-nuts. Cut the hole for the sub using a jig saw and go slow or the plexi will melt back together. Sand the hold till the sub fits good. Then put the sub in and mark the placement fot the holes. drill the holel in the glas as above first a small one the the bigger. The bigger one this time willbe bigger then the center of the T-nut. I uesed 10-24 T-nuts. The bigger hole will give you room for error. Then put the sub in the hole and put the t-nuts and bolt all in but DO NOT TITEN IT DOWN. just litely titen to make the t-nuts mark the little hole for the spines. Take it all apart and drill little hole where the spines where. Use some weather stiping on the box to get a seal between the glass and the wood. I used 3/4 wide and 3/8 thick.
Now your reddy to remove all the paper from the back. DO NOT TITEN DOWN ALL THE SCREWS right away. slowly go around all the screws and tork them down tight. And do remember to pre drill the holes. I think I got it all. Any more questions let me know.
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cappie. I was'nt going with a glass top, just the plexi. front baffle. Thanks for the tips,especially on the bolting down of the subs,. What really has me concerned is the placing of the mirrors, like I had said before I wanted to use mirror on the sides which would give the best visual of the subs. I don't know yet. I've worked with plexi. some I think i'll be o.k as far as making the the sub. baffle. But the mirrors ??, a while back i think it was "tiny" telling me how to clean-up the edges of the mirror with a router ! don't quote me. But I could'nt any more info.from him, he must had to be talking a about some kind of plexi. mirror to be using a router on.?
------------------ Thanks... !! Rock'n The World !!
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