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Author Topic: does this sound right?
RDAEX
Senior Member
Member # 22

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i have 4 eight inch subs in an escort, sealed, shared airspace.. theyre not hitting like i imagined they would.. they kinda seem out of phase, but theyre not.. they just hit, then youll see one of them kinda flex out a bit, making it sound distrorted.. theyre run off a punch800aII bridged wired in series/parallel to get 4 ohms mono
someone i talk to on the net told me this
"So you have a pair in series, another pair in series, then those
two pair wired in parallel? This is *not* good in a shared
enclosure. You might be able to get away with it if you had
at least 2 chambers, one for each series pair. Any time you
wire in series, you get a slight phase shift (or delay) between
the two speakers. That's why its recommended to wire subs
in parallel -- so they hit at the same time.

Do you have a 2 channel amp? Try this:

Instead of running it bridged, wire one pair in parallel and put
it on the left channel. Now wire the next pair in parallel and
put it on the right channel. They should all hit at the same
time now. Each channel will have 2ohms on it.

What type of amp do you have? Some amps have a switch for
stereo/mono/(1+2). If you have this, use the mono setting -- not
the bridged setting (1+2). If you don't have these options, check
your amp documentation to see if you can get a mono signal to
your channels. If you can't do this, you may have to feed a mono
signal to the amp and use the amp in stereo. That way you have
the same signal going into the left and right channels so playing
in stereo will produce the same signal on left and right channels.
In effect, your playing in mono. Result -- all subs hit at the same
time"


does this sound right to you all, or is it something different.. something i can do to help this

thankx
Ryan

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Punkin out with a killer system.
sXe all the way!


Posts: 744 | From: columbus, ohio | Registered: May 1999  | Report this post to a Moderator
doughboy
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Member # 93

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hmmmmm
they arnt out of phase "hence the mono" maybe a blow sub? im lost on that one

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Doughboy
doughboy@ezl.com
ICQ: 5440944


Posts: 685 | From: Alton, Illinois | Registered: May 1999  | Report this post to a Moderator
DarkAcura
Member
Member # 343

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I have always thought that separating the subs into their own chambers was a prefered way of doing things. Besides, I've been told that the each peice of wood that separates the chambers is a great brace.
Just a Thought =)

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Posts: 305 | From: Brooklyn, New York, USA | Registered: Aug 1999  | Report this post to a Moderator
Audiophyle
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Member # 9

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Ryan, pull those subs out and take a 9v battery and test them at the tinsel leads. Make sure the polarity is labeled correctly on all 4 of them. Next, use a test light on your wiring to make sure that the + marked wires are correct throughout, then reconnect all your subs, just how you had them, and power up your system. Listen to it with only the subs playing. Was one of your subs phased wrong? If it was, your problem is fixed. If not, I would try reversing phase AT THE AMPLIFIER, then listen again. It is possible that your expecting more out of them than is possible too.

------------------
STILL waiting to hear a GOOD pair of HLCD's!!

If it dont fit, force it... if it breaks, it needed to be replaced anyway...

members.tripod.com/Audiophyle


Posts: 3120 | From: nowhere | Registered: May 1999  | Report this post to a Moderator
Iz
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Member # 327

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RDAEX,

Not only is wiring them in series not
a good idea (especially in a shared
airspace) because of the phase shift, there
is another reason. One is the back EMF
that can be produced by a speaker. I didn't
want to get into anything too technical
when I sent you the email, I'm sorry. I
probably should have explained *all* the
negative side affects of wiring subs in
series, but I didn't have the time to go
into details. You could probably find alot of
detailed information in most basic electrical
engineering textbooks. Get some text on
magnetic fields or basic circuit design
for reference. I don't remember the
exact titles or authors because I don't have
mine with me to reference as I am at work
(shhhh! don't tell them I'm on here! hehe!). I'm sure you can find the info
on the web too.

Basically the phase shift between drivers
in series comes from the fact that the
electrical current must travel through the
first driver (thus actuating the driver),
then it reaches the next driver. In essence
the first driver gets the signal before the
second.

I'd like you to notice one thing too.
The speaker has a voice coil. The
opperative word being "coil". Yes, and being
a coil, it has inductance. What happens
when you wire an inductor in series with your
sub? Well, besides the fact that you can
cut out the high frequencies with the proper
value.

Yup, phase shift. 90 degrees with proper
inductance. Of course the voice coil of
a driver has different characteristics, but
it does introduce a phase shift.

Another reason is the difference in
characteristics between seemingly identical
subwoofers. No two subs are identical. Sure
the spec. sheet says they are, but they can
be up to 20% off! This is especially true
with mass-produced subs. The difference
between the subs (however slight it may be)
will cause more problems when wired in
series. This is mainly where your back EMF
comes into play. The difference between
the subs can produce very undesirable
current flow (or lack thereof) between the
two drivers in series.

To get a better grasp of this, remember that
a speaker is nothing more than a motor. Yes,
it's a motor. The magnet/voice coil is
called the motor assembly. When current
is introduced to the voice coil, it produces
an electromagnetic field which, depending
on the polarity relationship between the
magnet and electromagnet, causes the
electromagnet to either move toward or away from the stationary magnet.

When you rapidly switch the poles of the
current (an AC source -- i.e. output from the
amplifier), the electromagnet oscillates
with the frequency moving toward and
away from the stationary magnet. The
electromagnet is, of course, attached to
the speaker cone which produces the air
pressure differences that can be heard. We
call this noise, or music.

Now you have a motor. Let me ask you
something. Have you ever had a little
DC motor that you hooked a battery to
to make it spin? Now, have you ever
taken the same little motor and connected
a small light bulb or LED to it, then
spun the motor? If not, try it. You
may be suprised at the result. Let me
explain...

When you put electricity into the motor, you
turn the electrical energy into mechanical
energy via the electromagnetic fields.
Take the same motor and put
mechanical energy into it and you get
electrical energy out. Yes, the light bulb
will light when you spin the motor. This
is usually called a generator. :-) I could
go into more details, but I think this is
good for now.

Now you know that a motor can produce an
electrical current so you can see that
a speaker, being a motor, can do the same
thing. Push on the speaker and you can
get a current at the leads.

This is where the mechanical differences
between speakers affects subs wired in
series. Anytime the speaker starts to
move or stops moving the electrical current
to the speaker is affected by the electrical
current being produced by the speaker. This
is one reason the dampening factor of your
amplifier is important, but that's not the
topic of this thread. :-)

The mechanical differences between the
subs is what causes back EMF.
The differences only have to
be slight. One cone may weigh slightly
more than the other, one surround may be
slightly stiffer, or the excursion of one driver is slightly more than another. Even the slightest differences plays into the
back EMF caused by the drivers.

Now let's quickly look at what happens
when two drivers are wired in series in
a shared airspace. Not only do you have
the phase shift and back EMF problems, but
now you have another problem. Actually it's
a back EMF problem, but it's for another
reason. When the subs hit slightly out
of phase there is a point in time where
one sub will be moving out while another
is moving in (or stopped). Now each of these
subs is creating pressure in the airspace,
whether negative pressure or positive
pressure. The pressure that one sub
is causing is affecting the other sub thus
producing mechanical work on the other sub.
What does mechanical work do when introduced
into a motor? Yup, electrical energy is
produced. More back EMF problems.

Let's digress from the EMF problems for a
second and picture a point in time where
the two subs a wired in series so that they
hit slightly out of phase. This particular
point in time is when the second sub is at
xmax and the first sub is already on its
return path inward. Remember the first
sub will react before the second so it will
travel to xmax before the second hits xmax.
(we are ussuming xmax to make a point).
Since the first sub hit xmax first, we can
also say that it will be on its return stroke
first, right?

What happens when your second sub is pushed
to xmax and the first sub is already on
it return stroke producing a positive
pressure in your airspace? Yes! That
extra pressure created by the first sub
will directly affect the second sub by
pushing it out even further! That, my
friend, is over excursion. Not a good
thing at all.

So, to summarize what I went over:
Don't wire your subs in series, especially
if they're in a shared airspace. :-)

I'm sorry if this was a little more
explanation than you wanted, but I hope
I got my point across. If you have a little
better understanding on the subject, great! I'm glad I helped. If not, take my word for
it. At the very least, even if you have
to wire some in series and some in parallel,
put them into separate chambers. Separate
chambers may not fix all your problems,
but they will help eliminate alot of them.

Your best bet is to get and amp that will
handle the load of all of them wired in
parallel, or trade them for DVC models.

I just looked something up for you. It's
not a totally technical explanation, but
it helps back up my point. :-)

Look at the JL tutorials, specifically the
sub wiring and DVC tutorials. They will
tell you basically the same thing... never
wire your subs in series.

www.jlaudio.com

http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/dvc/point.html#series

I appologize to all for this long post. I
would've replied via email, but I thought
this information could help others out there.

Good luck with your subs!

Iz


Posts: 73 | From: Oklahoma | Registered: Jul 1999  | Report this post to a Moderator
DarkAcura
Member
Member # 343

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WOW! Thanks Iz... That explanation was great.
Good Luck RDAEX! Hope you get the sound your looking for!

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Posts: 305 | From: Brooklyn, New York, USA | Registered: Aug 1999  | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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