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I want to put subs in bed of truck. I have a topper on the truck and a boot between the top and rear window. no far out box designs just something to hit hard but easy to build.I want to try a V shape box but any help would be great.
------------------ FL BASS BOYZ
Posts: 49 | From: st. augustine fl USA | Registered: Jul 1999
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posted
perhaps you could cut a hole in the back of your cab and one in the front of the bed and connect the holes with some rubber to kinda make a bit of a tunnel and then put your subs in a box by the tunnel so they will fire directly into the cab and it will sound basically like you put your subs in the back of an extended cab.
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Posts: 78 | From: Calgary, Alberta | Registered: Jun 1999
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Your right capple, I dont want to cut the metal in the rear of the truck. I'm thinking about 4 15's, 8 12's, 2 18's I'm just not real sure yet. I havent worked on an application like this before, I dont know how well the bass is going to flow into the truck. I remember years ago in Daytona Lanzar had a pick-up set up like this but that was way before I decided to get serious!
------------------ FL BASS BOYZ
Posts: 49 | From: st. augustine fl USA | Registered: Jul 1999
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I have had much success with both the 4-15's and the 8-12's, in trucks with camper shells, with only the window removed. The most common box design I use is
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1/2 the subs facing forward and 1/2 the sub facing strait up. Then panel this off to the boot comming through the window.
I like this design because it's really easy to build into 2 boxs. The top one just sits on the lower one, also it takes up less of the truck bed.
Thunder. Because Size DOES MATTER!! :-)
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Posts: 538 | From: Pearl, MS | Registered: May 1999
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Thunder, I appreciate the help, I spent all day at the local shops and they almost got me talked into makin it a walk through. Do you think 4-15 s will keep up with 8-12 s. I'm using the MMats 200HC.
------------------ FL BASS BOYZ
Posts: 49 | From: st. augustine fl USA | Registered: Jul 1999
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IF you have the $$ to go with either the 4-15's@(706.5 square inches on cone area) or the 8-12's@(904.32 square inches of cone area) I think the, Hummmmmmmmmmm?! maybe; well,,,,,, The 12's!!!!
I am not sure what brand of sub you might be using. But if you happen to use the JL Audio W3's. I do not think you will be very popular with you local law enforcement personel!! :-0
Thunder. Because Size MATTERS!
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Posts: 538 | From: Pearl, MS | Registered: May 1999
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The boxes I like to build are usaly alwas cermetical. I would consider a V shaped box for the 4 15's _ Window top / / \ \_ Window bottom
with 8 12's it will be more dificult but still can be done with the V. the only thing you might have to do is zigg zagg the wall fron left to right. like this looking at it from the top.
window driver window pasenger side \ /\ / side \/ \/ I have this built in my truck check it out but with double the serfaces www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/9916/new.html All this will go out the window if you do a full walk through.
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Alright guys and gals I got a ques. I was told by an install guy that if I put my subs further back in the bed of my truck that it would hit harder in the drivers seat. Is there truth to this?
------------------ FL BASS BOYZ
Posts: 49 | From: st. augustine fl USA | Registered: Jul 1999
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posted
It won't hit harder (ie higher SPL) but, if the box effectively walls off the space behind it, it may sound like it plays deeper if you move the box back. Personally, I would leave it near the front.
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And that's the bottom line, cuz: LORD DUKK SAYS SO!
The Big Show The Dukk says: Know your bass: PORT your damn box!! Have HoleSaw, Will Travel!
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Just thought I'd let ya'll know, I'm going to try the 4-15 design Thunder suggested. I think it will be simple and effective. Thunder did you port this box design? Did this box work good for SPL?
------------------ FL BASS BOYZ
Posts: 49 | From: st. augustine fl USA | Registered: Jul 1999
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Most of the boxes I built in that style were sealed, with each speaker having it's own enclosure.The subs I used were the Old Kickers with the gold writing on them, (Now I am really showing my age!) and some even before they stared stiching the cones. I was getting concistant 140db - 145db (depending on the amp) out of this setup on the dash. Though most of my customers just wanted to be heard 2 blocks away! The best I got out of this box design was a 148.6db out of 8 Blues 12's in 2.5 per sub ported. (Mazda mini truck with 4 5002s Linears on subs.)I have also done 4 RF 18's like this but the box was _\ to make the lower subs level with the bottom of the window.
I hope this helps.
Thunder. Beacuse Size DOES MATTER!
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Posts: 538 | From: Pearl, MS | Registered: May 1999
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Thunder and anyone else! The box were talking about has 2 facing up and 2 facing forward,paneled off to direct thump through rear window. My goal is to hit 150!!!! Dimensions to work with are 48wide x 20 x 18for the bottom box and 48 x 18 x 20 for the top. I know almost 5 cubic feet per speaker but thats just roughing it for talkin right now. I havn't purchased my amps yet or speakers. I still got a deal working on 2 MMats D-200's. I've got a 240 amp externally rectified, Leecce Neeville alt. with a inside the cab adj. regulator feeding 2 Optimas. All this is just for sub-amps, the mids and highs are run on factory delco 110 amp alt. So my point is I can run some good watts with little voltage drop. I
------------------ FL BASS BOYZ
Posts: 49 | From: st. augustine fl USA | Registered: Jul 1999
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I guess I got carried away on that last reply! Anyway all input is really helpful!! 150 or bust!! thats my goal men, HELP ME OUTTTTT!!!Peace--Out.
------------------ FL BASS BOYZ
Posts: 49 | From: st. augustine fl USA | Registered: Jul 1999
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Sounds like you have enough of an alt. I like the part about it being externally rectofied, less problems that way. I do not know about your batteries. (I an not a fan of Optima. You can build a 14v battery system for the same $$)[I'm old school!] As far as subs go I have had good luck with the Strokers. But I have also seen good #'s with Digital Designs. You should have no problems with your goal.
Just remember to keep it simple and when you think it is strong enough. ADD 20% MORE!!!
Thunder. Because Size DOES MATTER!
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Posts: 538 | From: Pearl, MS | Registered: May 1999
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Thunder I've run Optimas for 2 years now, and I worked them to death! I like these batteries very much. They have a real low internal resistance making very fast recharching possible. I am using the Blue Models, they are almost the same as the red.I don't know why guys are using the yellows. To me this doesn't make sense. What you are looking for is supplemental burst power to help your alt.. In my opinion this is achieved better with cranking batteries instead of alt. killing deep cycle hogs. Your alt. is working double-time to charge these and power your thump-makers. I have much experience with high DC current drawing equipment,(competition CB). Also I like to run the same manufacture batt. when working in series applications cause all cells are the same= uniform charge and discharge rates within the cells.
------------------ FL BASS BOYZ
Posts: 49 | From: st. augustine fl USA | Registered: Jul 1999
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WOW! I can't remember but someone posted a web site with cut prices www.digitalwavez.com by far the best deals I have seen! Now i will be able to go with RF instead of the MMats I was talking about. I'll be ordering my 1100a2 and 4-15's. Will the XLC be adequate or the DVC a must. Lots of room to put them.
------------------ FL BASS BOYZ
Posts: 49 | From: st. augustine fl USA | Registered: Jul 1999
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i am supprised that someone is not trying a 16v system (another comp CB trick). usually this will not hurt anything (most internally regulated delcos put this out already). you will drop your amp draw down as well. i have seen voltage regulators that can be adjusted from in the cab that work for this. then you can run 8v industrial batts that have a load of burst amps (cranking amps) available. even if you stayed with 12v batts (or multiple 6v works better) you could use this type of charging system to make up for the voltage drop you have when you crank things up. just a thought.
I did not mean to step on any toes here I just ment to say that MY OWN experience with Optimas have not been good. I agree completely with using the same manufacturer sytle, size and age of batteries in a battery bank. We us the Exide #3600 6v and the #4800 8v in series to get a 1000cca 14.4v battery system. For us this yeilds fast response, because they are cranking batteries, and the added punch of the 2 extra volts that un-regulated amps love.
I have heard of competitors using 16v systems but I am not sure many amps can use this due to the internal ratings on some of the caps. I work at a 12v repair shop, it is not pretty when one of our local redneck enginers hooks an amp to the before mentioned comp. CB battery systems. (18v+)
Just a though.
Thunder. Because size Does MATTER!
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Posts: 538 | From: Pearl, MS | Registered: May 1999
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Thunder I couldn't find any specs. on exide batteries. But I have heard good things about them. I'm having a fit trying to figure out how many and which line of RF subs to use.? I am going to buy the 1100a2 unless I find a good reason not to. 4-xlc,4-dvc,8-punch series. I dont know what set-up would be best.
------------------ FL BASS BOYZ
Posts: 49 | From: st. augustine fl USA | Registered: Jul 1999
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