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petyolite
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i have a moded mmats 2200 running 1/2ohm mono on 2 12" soundstream devinci subs. my ? is if they are mono why is one getting alot hotter then the other [Confused]

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leg can make a man do crazy things

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THE-SCRAPER
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check the impedance of each sub to see if they are different.if subs are in septerate chambers inspect both chambers thouroughly. [Smile]

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petyolite
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they are in a common chamber with a plexyglass front box is clean impedance is right the one that i was worried about got so hot it melted the dust cover but it still works

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leg can make a man do crazy things

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Bumpin' Yota
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That doesnt sound correct at all...

did you check the impeadance of both subs individually?

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Nomad84
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Is there anything at all different between the 2 subs that might affect the impedance at higher SPL? For instance, is does one have something in front of it and the other one doesn't, like a seat or interior panel? Just trying to throw out some ideas. Have you checked the resistance of each coil individually to see if something is wrong there? Also, check your wiring. Is it possible that there is a loose wire resulting in a coil not being powered somewhere?

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petyolite
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well a friend used my car and blew my subs they looked good sounded good for a while you can see my set up http://www.pcxtremeaudio.com/forum/index.php?topic=947.0

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leg can make a man do crazy things

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petyolite
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both subs blew but the one i said got hotter melted the dust cover when i pulled them out everything was tight and as you can it was all open in my truck nothing in front of the subs
oh and one more thing i need two more 12s

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leg can make a man do crazy things

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krip sak
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I thought SS amps ran pretty hot, I guess SS likes to run their entire line hot.

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Sound Domain Page

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Eli47
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quote:
Originally posted by petyolite:
i have a moded mmats 2200 running 1/2ohm mono on 2 12" soundstream devinci subs. my ? is if they are mono why is one getting alot hotter then the other [Confused]

They got too hot because the amplifier saw 1/2 ohm mono.
the term Watt is a term used to describe HEAT DISSIPATION, and at a 1/2 oh the amplifier was being cooked, not just the voice coil on the subs.
OH, one more thing, NO AMPLIFIER manufacturer "LIKES" to run their amplifiers hot(or thermal), just because specs say that an amp put out X amount of power into a short circuit, doesn't mean you should do it. Car amplifiers are ALL designed to run at 4ohms, no exceptions.
if you reduce the resistance you will increase power, distortion, and lose control of the woofer, and quality of sound, and longevity of your system (never mind the vehicle's electrical system), or your warranty, which does not cover "abuse".
If you need more power, buy a bigger amp that will give it to you properly, don't try to squezze the lemon.

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petyolite
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If all amps are made to run at four ohms why do they make them bridgable...why do companies modify amps and why do they include a lower ohm load on the spec sheet?.....because the amps are designed to run at a lower ohm load....yes I compete with my amp that's why I had it modified, I did a power test on my amp and at full power I was getting 2300 watts burping it, my subs are rated at 1000 watts a piece so in day to day use I don't think I exceeded 1000 watts each....and I don't run it hard in my day to day use and when I do use it everyday the amp doesn't get hot only the subs...like I said in previous post I had just finished competiton and a friend borrowed my car and he played it long and hard while all my adjustments were turned up...and my automotive electric system is just fine...I've got a modified alternator, an extra battery and 4 guage wire run through out

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leg can make a man do crazy things

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Fatal Lowz JH
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mmmmmm.......
sounds like my speakers. i had the same problem. if i was you i would check the voice coils on the sub. if you are pushing too much power to the coils they may start to burn up or maybe from abuse at times. maybe you could have burned a voice coil off and putting all the power to one coil which would cause the speaker to get hot. you could be working the subs hard with .5 ohms. just trying to help

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96 4dr Honda Accord
Pioneer P8500MP
Two Resonant Engineering SE 15's
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smebysound
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quote:
Originally posted by Eli47:
quote:
Originally posted by petyolite:
i have a moded mmats 2200 running 1/2ohm mono on 2 12" soundstream devinci subs. my ? is if they are mono why is one getting alot hotter then the other [Confused]

They got too hot because the amplifier saw 1/2 ohm mono.
the term Watt is a term used to describe HEAT DISSIPATION, and at a 1/2 oh the amplifier was being cooked, not just the voice coil on the subs.
OH, one more thing, NO AMPLIFIER manufacturer "LIKES" to run their amplifiers hot(or thermal), just because specs say that an amp put out X amount of power into a short circuit, doesn't mean you should do it. Car amplifiers are ALL designed to run at 4ohms, no exceptions.
if you reduce the resistance you will increase power, distortion, and lose control of the woofer, and quality of sound, and longevity of your system (never mind the vehicle's electrical system), or your warranty, which does not cover "abuse".
If you need more power, buy a bigger amp that will give it to you properly, don't try to squezze the lemon.

[Roll Eyes] thats like saying "dont turn it on and it wont get hot" [Roll Eyes]

looking at the pics the subs are in common chamber and both are equal distance from the port and both running of the same mono amp so i dont see why one should get hotter than the other
...you got me

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glenn smeby
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toxicbass_1
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Follow the manufacturers Specs..dont run amps below their rated ohmage,or youl overcurrent the output transistors...

id like to know what the cause of this guys problem is

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Eli47
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quote:
Originally posted by petyolite:
If all amps are made to run at four ohms why do they make them bridgable...why do companies modify amps and why do they include a lower ohm load on the spec sheet?.....because the amps are designed to run at a lower ohm load....yes I compete with my amp that's why I had it modified, I did a power test on my amp and at full power I was getting 2300 watts burping it, my subs are rated at 1000 watts a piece so in day to day use I don't think I exceeded 1000 watts each....and I don't run it hard in my day to day use and when I do use it everyday the amp doesn't get hot only the subs...like I said in previous post I had just finished competiton and a friend borrowed my car and he played it long and hard while all my adjustments were turned up...and my automotive electric system is just fine...I've got a modified alternator, an extra battery and 4 guage wire run through out

I've been trying to answer this for some time, but always got interrupted.
Yes, all 12Volt units are designed to operate at a 4 ohm load, amplifiers that are bridgeable are made so that a user can sum the TOTAL power at 4 ohms into one channel, specifically for subwoofer application where the demands of stereo are not required, because we percieve low bass as mono. Note that when ANY amplifier is bridged, although the power is increased, so does THD and especially the most damaging TIM distortion levels are increased by more than double, and the amplifier reacts to HALF the load presented to it, because only half of each channel is used.
Manufacturers do indeed improve on models year by year, they do this because they get so many burnt units that they are trying to improve on designs in order to reduce their rate of failure(most often due to abuse).
Specification sheets are also provided to show what the unit will do at specific points in impedance and power, keeping in mind that when any unit (amp etc..)is tested, it is tested to IHF or DIN standards. That is to say that the amplifier in question is connected to a 4 ohm resistor, not a reactive load like a speaker(whose impedance changes with the movement of the voice coil position in the magnet gap), then a sine wave (test tone) is passed through (typically 1KHz) and the output is measured.
I don't listen to resistors, and I don't listen to a single 1KHz note in my music. Music being a far more complex signal because amplitutde and frequency changes, plus the speaker sends a return signal(Motional FeedBack)which the amplifier must ignore (see Damping factor).
Soemthing no spec sheet can show. So you'll find most knowledgeable audiophiles will ignore specification sheets, because we don't listen to paper.
Back to wattage, if a lightbulb is only 100 watts, why can't you hold it while it's lit for a long time without burning your fingers? how much hotter is 1000 watts ? is it the same watts for a lightbulb as for your speaker?
Can you see why it burnt now?

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smebysound
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quote:
Originally posted by Eli47:
quote:
Originally posted by petyolite:
If all amps are made to run at four ohms why do they make them bridgable...why do companies modify amps and why do they include a lower ohm load on the spec sheet?.....because the amps are designed to run at a lower ohm load....yes I compete with my amp that's why I had it modified, I did a power test on my amp and at full power I was getting 2300 watts burping it, my subs are rated at 1000 watts a piece so in day to day use I don't think I exceeded 1000 watts each....and I don't run it hard in my day to day use and when I do use it everyday the amp doesn't get hot only the subs...like I said in previous post I had just finished competiton and a friend borrowed my car and he played it long and hard while all my adjustments were turned up...and my automotive electric system is just fine...I've got a modified alternator, an extra battery and 4 guage wire run through out

I've been trying to answer this for some time, but always got interrupted.
Yes, all 12Volt units are designed to operate at a 4 ohm load, amplifiers that are bridgeable are made so that a user can sum the TOTAL power at 4 ohms into one channel, specifically for subwoofer application where the demands of stereo are not required, because we percieve low bass as mono. Note that when ANY amplifier is bridged, although the power is increased, so does THD and especially the most damaging TIM distortion levels are increased by more than double, and the amplifier reacts to HALF the load presented to it, because only half of each channel is used.
Manufacturers do indeed improve on models year by year, they do this because they get so many burnt units that they are trying to improve on designs in order to reduce their rate of failure(most often due to abuse).
Specification sheets are also provided to show what the unit will do at specific points in impedance and power, keeping in mind that when any unit (amp etc..)is tested, it is tested to IHF or DIN standards. That is to say that the amplifier in question is connected to a 4 ohm resistor, not a reactive load like a speaker(whose impedance changes with the movement of the voice coil position in the magnet gap), then a sine wave (test tone) is passed through (typically 1KHz) and the output is measured.
I don't listen to resistors, and I don't listen to a single 1KHz note in my music. Music being a far more complex signal because amplitutde and frequency changes, plus the speaker sends a return signal(Motional FeedBack)which the amplifier must ignore (see Damping factor).
Soemthing no spec sheet can show. So you'll find most knowledgeable audiophiles will ignore specification sheets, because we don't listen to paper.
Back to wattage, if a lightbulb is only 100 watts, why can't you hold it while it's lit for a long time without burning your fingers? how much hotter is 1000 watts ? is it the same watts for a lightbulb as for your speaker?
Can you see why it burnt now?

that is a very very good point and makes lots of sence but it still dont answer the question.....why does one sub get alot hotter than the other one? both subs in the same box running mono on 1 amp

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Eli47
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Logic would dictate that one sub got too hot because there is something different about it. Not being there to see and inspect it's hard to tell, were they wired in series, or parallel?
A series connection may explain why one got too hot.

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Bumpin' Yota
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I'd say he wired them up incorrectly. I'd bet that one sub's coils were completely parallel and the other sub's coils were probably seriesed, then he likely paralleled both subs to the amp.

This would give a close final impeadance to what his goal was, yet would give one sub a LOT more power than the other. Likely 4x as much.

Another possibility is that the manufacturer screwed up and sent him one of a differing impeadance.


Petyolite - THIS is why you check each and every coil's impeadance AND phase BEFORE you even think about putting them into a box.

--------------------
2005 Florida Street C Champion
2004 SBN Street C Champion
2004 SBN IDBL No Wall Champion
2003 NOPI Nats Street B Champion

Pure Pressure Audio || TEAM GATES || HO-alternator || Florida SPL || DiRtY SoUtH DEAF SqUaD

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Bryan Gibson
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It could just be a bad sub or if he run the second sub to the first and the first to the amp the first sub could be heating up because it is sending power to the second sub?

Hunger, it makes you not sense make any

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Eli47
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One more minor point, it was mentioned that the amplifier has been "moded" (modified), question is how, and why? Did the modification have anything to do with it?

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smebysound
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the amp is modded to run a lower ohmload and put out more power

both subs coils are parrelleled and and each sub had a speaker wire running from the amp to the sub , both wires are the same length on the same amp in the same box

all coils reading the same when tested

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glenn smeby
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Eli47
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Yota, I'm not too famelier with these subs, are they DVC's or single coil?
You mentioned that in order to achieve the impedance mentioned, one of the coils would have had to have been in series. So it was a series parallel connection of 4 coils?
In the process of modifying the amplifier, was the protection circuit removed or bypassed?
Could it be that one coil's glue at the former and cone gave up an launched the speaker into lightspeed? or the amp went DC and the first coil got flambe'd, causing a meltdown ?

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Boomin Audio Competitions - Andy
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Get new subs!

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Pioneer_Phan
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my 2 cent:
try to swap ur subz! connect the one that doesn't get hot exactly as u connected the other one and vise versa!
this way if u see that the other sub gets hot as well... then u know that there is something wrong with ur wiring! if it doesnt' and the same sub gets hot then u know that the subz have different impedances in which case u'd have to think about buying a new sub!

hope that helped!

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everything will be louder then!

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pimpin at my house
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these subs are a different breed because there is a normal stacked mag out side the pole and a neo magnet in the center of the pole...SPLaudio
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Twellmann
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a sidenote..

a woofer is designed to dispose of the excess heat, and it does that by movement of the cone mainly.

a lightbulb has no means of removing heat other than just sitting there..

a sub and a lightbulb are not the same...

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