posted
OK, I'm trying to understand this so here is where i am at-
I am comparing this to a 2400w High current amp vs a 2500w Class D amp.
2400w = 160A fuse rated by manuf at 13.8 v 2500w = 120A fuse rated by manuf at 13.8 v
Is it correct to assume that Class D will Draw just as much power as a High Current amp, it will just output more due to efficiency?
If that is correct, then why do Class D amps have smaller fuses out of Class A\Class AB and Class B amps??
According to math, if manuf, isn't lying- If the 2400w amp did 2400w at 13.8 volts, that is a 174A draw. However, the 2500w amp was also rated at doin that at 13.8 volts so wouldnt its draw be 181A?
Then you take into account efficiency to determine what has more output which of course would be Class D but again, why put a smaller fuse on Class D amps if this is correct?
To help out the math i have done, i have not had a chance to meter the 2500w Class d amp but i did meter the 2400w outputting 1,940w with slight clipping, voltage unknown though but was probably low. Stock battery on 200amp alt but was in park. Amp idle from alt is less than 50 amps so it would probably be less than 12.6 volts for that result.
Any comments as if i am correct about this? Class d draws more than HC(for this example cuz the class d is more powerful) but if that's true why a smaller fuse?
posted
i already explained this to u in the last thread u made. fuses in general can hold up to double there rating. some companies put larger than needed fuses on there amps. there is gonna be no way to know which amp has more output without benching them, unless u know someone who has already done it. also, there r a lot of companies who overrate there stuff. pyramid for example makes the 2400D, and says it puts out 2400 rms at 1.3 ohms, but it has the exact same board as the lanzar 1200D, which puts out 1200 and some change at 1.3 ohms. just dont worry, when ur dealing with around 2000 watts, 100 watts either way isnt even gonna make an audible difference. just bench the amp and compare output or dont worry about it.
-------------------- as real as it seems, the american dream, aint nuthin but anotha calculated scheme, to get us locked up, shot up, back in chains, to deny us of the future, rob our names - Pac Posts: 179 | From: washington | Registered: Apr 2003
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posted
also, the less efficient an amp is, the more current it will draw to produce the same amount of power, so theres another reason for the higher fuse rating on the A/B amp.
-------------------- as real as it seems, the american dream, aint nuthin but anotha calculated scheme, to get us locked up, shot up, back in chains, to deny us of the future, rob our names - Pac Posts: 179 | From: washington | Registered: Apr 2003
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posted
When you have a "2400" watt amp, what that usually means is that it will put out 2400watts. The input power will always be higher.
If you have a 50% efficient class a/b amp that puts out 2400 watts, that means you'll be pulling roughly (2400)/(.5)=4800 watts from the car's elect. system. On the other hand, if you have an 80% efficient class D amp, you'll be only pulling (2400)/(.8) = 3000watts from the electrical system...wuite a bit less than the class a/b amp.
Given the same output power, the class D will usually pull less power from the electrical system.
Given the same input power, the class D will usually put more power out to the speakers.
Ash
-------------------- ****************************** ****************************** Posts: 1130 | From: Los Angeles, CA | Registered: Aug 2001
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posted
thanks. I'm not tryin to run the Advanced Topic over with similar threads, i was just tryin to get a glimpse at an average way to see approximately how much an amp can possibly do before metering it w\o the count of clipping.
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