posted
I posted this on another message board awhile ago and got some good advice, but I'm still having problems and thought I would see what ideas you all have.
Everything works fine when the head unit is on but usually, when I turn the head unit off, the fans stay on and weird things start happening in the car -- The amplifier will stay on and make the subs hum. There will usually be a compressor noise coming from somewhere up in the dash and sometimes the parking lights will dim and undim. All I have to do is disconnect the ground that goes to the relay and everything shuts off and stays off like it is suppose to except the fans of course.
Here's a diagram of exactly how everything is setup:
I added a diode to the remote wire on some advice that maybe the fans were generating enough electricity after turning off to turn the relay back on. Since two diodes came in a package I thought I would just throw on the 12v out also.
The diodes worked, I thought, but about 2 days later I went out to the car and the relay had turned the fans and the amp back on while I was gone and the subs were humming and that compressor noise was coming from the dash again. Now the same problem is back again with it not switching off when the HU was turned off.
The thermostat is simply a furnace fan thermostat and is just connecting the ground wire to allow the relay to work once the temperature is above 95 degrees. Since it's summer right now it's probably always on. I'm convinced that the termostat isn't the problem at all because I bypassed it once so the relay was always grounded and had the same issues with the fans staying on and the other things switching on in the car.
posted
Very interesting. I cant find my sheet that tell the pin for a relay but everything appears to be right on the amp. ONe thing stand out is that you have your remote wire going from the headunit to the amp to the relay. Just run to the relay and then to the amp from pin 30. If I find the paper I will double check.
"If you do not like bass and are uncomfortable with bass or you do not wish to explore the boundary's of your audio system then leave now." --Bass Mekanik
posted
Thanks for the suggestions. I guess I'm just going to have to try some different ways of wiring it up and see what happens.
I've heard a couple of suggestions now for using the relay to turn both the amp and the fans on and then just use the tstat on the 12v out to the fans. The only problem with doing this is if I have problems I can't just disconnect the ground on the relay like I've done now because then I won't just lose the use of the fans which is no big deal, but I'll lose all my sounds because of no amp! Oh well, I guess nobody's going to tell me about a magic button on the relay that automatically fixes all your problems!
quote:Originally posted by deaf tones: where did you hook up the relay? did you give it its own + source? or tap into some other + for convenience?
I just have the 8 guage wire running back for the amp and I've got a second fuse hooked right next to my amp, so I just hooked a wire after that for the relay power.
One other thing I just noticed today when I was messing with it is that the fans will turn off and stay off if I disconnect the 12v in (87) on the relay or the 12v out (30) on the relay.... but the relay keeps making this weird vibrating noise and my amplifier stays on until I either disconnect the HU switch (86) or the ground (85) on the relay.
posted
I'll be the third one to say this, run the remote from you HU straight to the relay and use the relay to turn on fans and amp. I'll bet the amp is somehow putting a charge on the remote wire which is leaving the relay on.
You said the problem stops when you disconnect the ground on the relay. So, use another relay to cut the ground on the original relay when you turn the car off.
Wire it like this:
85 to a seperate chassis ground. 86 to ignition
Cut the ground wire and put one side on 87 and the other on 30.
If I had something to draw a diagram with, I'd draw it for you. But, I don't so I hope you are getting what I'm saying.
Wiring it like this will cut the ground wire or simulate you taking the ground off of the first relay. Hopefully this will solve your problem.
Hook it up as follows: 87a - empty 87 - constant fused +12VDC (an amp power wire or to your distribution block, it doesn't need to go all the way to the battery directly), use 10-14 awg wire and fuse around 10-20 amps (the more components, the higher the rating & the larger the wire needs to be) 30 - +12VDC Remote lead outputs to your fans & remote turn on leads on your amps & processors (each one can be 18 awg or so. Twist them together and crimp on one of the yellow terminals) 85 - input from the decks remote wire (+12VDC) (18 awg is fine) 86 - ground (metal chassis of car or amplifier terminal or distribution block, 18 awg is fine)
U have the 85 on ground.....that cant be right....
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