posted
Would it be wise to use different sizes of subs for different freqs? Say 2 15's crossed over at like 50hz w/ no subsonic filter for the lows, with 2 10's playing between 40 and 80 or 90 hz for the higher bass? would that be good to do? Or would it be smarter to go with like 4 12's?
Posts: 34 | From: Ogden, Utah | Registered: Nov 1999
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posted
I assume that it'd be better, because you're letting each sub play in it's prime "audio zone." The bad thing about is that it's much more complicated. I'm doing something like that with my car, I'm using a Phoenix Gold Cyclone for 11 hz - 55 hz or so, and using a Diamond Audio MotorSport 8" or 10" for 50 hz - 120 hz or so. Each will be run by it's own amp, in totally separate enclosures and separate locations. Probably a pair of Phoenix Gold ZX400ti amps. I'd like to do the ZX600ti, but I'm limited by budget.
posted
If you want it to be in its prime don't tune an 8" lower than 100 Hz. You might also check your deck and amps to make sure that they will produce freq. below 20 Hz as most don't tunning below this is just a waste. (i.e. a cyclone tunned from 11-50 Hz.)
[This message has been edited by Shermbot (edited 01-18-2000).]
Posts: 189 | From: Newburgh, Ny 12550 | Registered: Jun 1999
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posted
Not a good idea, unless you use x-overs with really steep (read 24dB per octave or higher) slopes. You will have crazy cancellation problems otherwise.
------------------ STILL waiting to hear a GOOD pair of HLCD's!!
If it dont fit, force it... if it breaks, it needed to be replaced anyway...
posted
I'm with Audiophyle on this one. There is no point in trying to fight cancelation. Just use all the same size woofers to save yourself a headache...... Tony Jordan
------------------ Stop asking dammmm you....No one is tryin to steal my Lucky Charms
Hmm.. audio- for this type of setup, i don't think 24 db/o would suffice.. Sony's XES unit can do -72 db/o slopes, that might work... but probably not.
Mixing and matching all these different sub sizes leads to phase, cancellation and linearity problems.. More trouble than it is worth..
If you REALLY must have a level sound, get something middle ground like 12's and a GOOD eq.
ShadowStar
Posts: 2578 | From: Somewhere In the Northeast | Registered: May 1999
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posted
I could see it working if he had 8's up front and a pair of 12's or something in the back, but, your right, it needs even higher than 24dB to even begin to function correctly.
------------------ STILL waiting to hear a GOOD pair of HLCD's!!
If it dont fit, force it... if it breaks, it needed to be replaced anyway...
posted
What should I do for my subs then? I'm hearing everyone tell me about cancellation, but I don't really understand how it works. I kinda get the crossover thing, and I'd be using 24db/o crossovers in the amps. Is there any external crossover that can give me performance like the Sony thing around 75db/o? That'd be great to have. Thanks Sam
Posts: 461 | From: Arizona | Registered: Jan 2000
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posted
Could someone please explain to me how, without the steep crossover slope, there are phasing and cancellation problems? I dont understand it.
Posts: 34 | From: Ogden, Utah | Registered: Nov 1999
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A crossover, ANY crossover, works by affecting the phase of the signal as well as resisting the input signal more and more as the signal gets farther away from the crossover point. A crossover point is a bad thing to have, as when you go over the x-over point you can an increase in sound, a decrease in sound, and if the drivers are out of phase, a BIG gap in the sound. It makes getting a flat and level response harder to do, and complicates a situation.
Also, a ten creates LESS sound than a 12 for equal cone movement, correct? Well, you have to balance the power input, efficiency and enclosure shapes of EACH different section. In the case of the Cyclone and midbass, the cyclone has a brick wall response that cuts off above (i think) 50hz where output disappears above 50hz..
Posts: 2578 | From: Somewhere In the Northeast | Registered: May 1999
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