posted
This is my problem...me and a friend who knows a lot about car audio tried hooking up 2 rockford 10" punches run by a rampage 100W amp (small I know but I'll upgrade). I don't have an aftermarket stereo so we got the converter to be used so we don't need a preamp...now we got everything in and everything, but we're having one big problem...he hooked up the amp to be powered with the power antenna...now, he thought the amp could use the current even with the antenna down, but that is apparently untrue...meaning i have no sub power with CD's...pointless. So what do you guys have for suggestions? A) can i rig up something to keep the antenna powered w/ the CD on (prolly not)...or B) attach it to a different wire (prolly what I'll have to do). If so what wire and wire color if anyone knows. Thank you SO much. Email me if possible...if not a reply is also great. Everything works great besides that...please help!
posted
Grab the radio ignition wire and run it to the amp. The amp will run all the time when the car is on (unless you put a switch in-line) so turning the radio on and off may cause pops.
------------------
Lord Dukk The Big Show The Dukk says: Know your bass: PORT your damn box!! Have HoleSaw, Will Travel!
posted
Dukk wouldnt that be asking alot of the stock wiring in this damn cars. I can see something happening to this poor guys car like that one car that wayne wrote a story about in his article section "or was that because he didnt have a fuse? " or well same principle
posted
I dont think the remote turn on lead will cause any problems. Remember that it only trips a relay or transistor, and never draws much power at all. I cannot forsee any problems other than what Dukk already told him, a pop will occur if he turns the radio off and on with the key on.
------------------ members.tripod.com/Audiophyle Ba Chomp, Ba Chewy Chomp, Ba Chewy Chewy CHOMP!! Someday, we'll all look back on this, laugh nervously, and change the subject!!
Posts: 3120 | From: nowhere | Registered: May 1999
|
posted
Can he put a small noise killer in-line with the ignition lead, as Dukk suggested, and the remote turn-on lead of the amp? Would this not eliminate the forseeable pop? Or, would upgrading to a Fosgate/MTX/similar quality amp also eliminate that problem?
He could do the old Sparkomatic trick: hard-wire straight to the battery with a toggle-kill switch hooked in-line !! Heck, someone probably suggested that, too tired to comprehend what I read *sigh*. L8rz
ub
------------------ Never tick off a klingon!
Posts: 7153 | From: No. VA | Registered: May 1999
|
posted
The pop comes from suddenly cutting off or introducing the audiosignal when the amp is on... To avoid this, one can choose a line level convertor that has a remote on circuit built in - it monitors the signal and when one is present turns on the amps, if the signal dissapears for more than a few seconds, it turns the amp off. Many home powered subs work this way. Currently, the only two manufactureres of these that I know of is Soundgate and, believe it or not, Pyramid...
------------------
Lord Dukk The Big Show The Dukk says: Know your bass: PORT your damn box!! Have HoleSaw, Will Travel!
Printer-friendly view of this topic