i emailed raamat, never get an email yet, how do you make business with no good communication...
Posts: 546 | From: Hawaii | Registered: Oct 2002
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The_dew2000
unregistered
posted
Someone brought my dampener post back!!
Yes ED v2 looks like a good price for the thickness. Overall Mastic is the best thickness/price.
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posted
wow haven't been here in a long while like 2 years maybe, but i saw this and thought id add for old time sakes. i did the whole interior of my s-10 blazer with the mastic and it was the best deal i found although in some areas you have to double up. my main reason for replying was...not sure if they still do this... but when i ordered they sent the stuff and then mailed me an invoice so i had stuff in hand before even paying also i ordered the viscoelastic stuff for the doors which doesnt smell and is thinner but better than the mastic.
posted
Chritter- How is the viscoelastic better? Does the polymeric mastic stop vibration well? Where did u put it? Which do you think is better for trunk lids? Thanks for the help.
Posts: 88 | From: Jersey Shore | Registered: Mar 2002
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posted
first timer, sorry im late replying. i did't get around to this board much as i finished audio engineering school. anyways, i put the viscoelastic in the doors b/c it was stiffer and easier to work with. it goes on better and from what i can tell it doesnt flex "for lack of better words" like the hi-temp mastic. i did have to remove a couple pieces and use some spray glue to help keep it sticky where the door gets really hot in the sun. also i like that it doesn't have an odor which took 2 years to go away from the hi temp stuff and it still comes back on hot days. i think if you layered 2 sheets of it for the trunk lid it should work. just using a single layer in the doors was enough for my coax which i have right now till i get the custom panels built for my infinity kappas componets which i bought in 2000 that are still in my closet sorry for the short story
~chris
i also want to add something i found that works really well for side panels and tail gates. that is if it's not against rules if you compete. put carpet "jute" padding in there. my tail gate is almost as solid as a rock Posts: 25 | From: Murfreesboro,TN | Registered: Apr 2001
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posted
This is a great post. I have been thinking about adding some dampener to my car but had a ton of questions. All of which have been answered in this post. Thanks for all the contributions. I think I may try the Fatmat as I spoke with a fellow competitor at a show last month and got to see it first hand. It is almost identical to the Extreme Dynamat that is waaaaay more expensive.
I have to say, this stuff is the best i've ever used, it is a touch spendy but i'm not kidding you, you can spray wd-40 on the panel and stick this one and it will stay forever, the guy garantees this for life. I'm sold
-------------------- Look down on me, you'll see a fool. Look up at me, you'll see your lord. Look strait at me, you'll see yourself.
www.rs-audio.de <---check em out my page <---My sound domain site. check it out Posts: 80 | From: Pocatello, Idaho | Registered: Nov 2002
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posted
so how are prices now as compared to prices when this was started?
i am using peel and seal in my cutty. so far i have used 2 rolls in the trunk and trunk lid. a roll is 12" x 33.5' long and cost me 40 bux. i have now started on my doors and once they are done then i will proceed to the floor and mayb even to the headliner. i have dbled up wherever i can fit it or reach to apply it. on the trunk i just used my hands. on the trunk lid i did that then i found a few pieces were falling off so i borrowed a torch to put it in place. i plan on using the torch for the doors as well. http://www.mfmbp.com/peelseal/index.htm i bought mine at Menards on the packaging it says 40 mil thick
posted
I have used a lot of these deadners and I personaly like dynomat extreme the best by far. I hated dynomit the stuff would come of the doors by itself bronwbread was pretty good no complaints there. it realy depends on how you are trying to use it. for spl sometimes it ends up hurting you more than helping and sometimes it is great (i.e.I used it on my friends car just the TRUNK LID and he gained 5dB so I took the stuff I had on my doors and put it on his trunk lid and he gained 2 more dB w/6 layers of dynomat ext.) on his brothers carhe dropped 3dB by adding 1 layer of sound deadning. so if for spl test before then after see which is louder then stick with that. hope that helps and let us know which you decide on using
posted
i used about 60 sq ft of Fatmat in my trunk (99 accord coupe) and doubled up on the trunklid. it definately helped rattles a lot and i noticed a little better bass. it wont completely stop your rattles but it will make it less known. my friend used it on his 2001 stang just on the trunklid and i was shocked at how well it worked
-------------------- Bassheadz,we do it till it Hertz!
Alpine 9835 Alpine 4 channel amp CDT HD62Efs Visonik 900 HC 15 3.79 after driver displacement 43.5sq" of port 35 Hertz Tuning Posts: 382 | From: Southern Cali | Registered: Mar 2003
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posted
When it comes to my van all conventional wisdom goes out the window.
I have over 800 tubes of polyurethane caulk spread over my interior sheetmetal, another 700 tubes to go mainly in the front fenders and hood and I also use self leveling polyurethane caulk and countless cans of spray foam.
I am not normal, but my point is that the urethanes work very well, also the use of a bondo spreader and gloves are highly recommended.
-------------------- Team Bass Coat
MTX MAXXSONICS Pioneer
Bruce Dressel
In loving memory of my sister Kerry Ann Johnson 1970 - 2008
My friend said that my speakers are cooler than yours.... therefore I'm cooler than you are. Don't argue with me about it either. Posts: 2354 | From: Vegas | Registered: Mar 2001
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posted
I used some stuff from home depo, it's ment for roofs but it was sticky black gunk on foil so I could not resist the temptation.
It eliminated a good amount of road noise when I did my doors. It's not that bad on the price, I think it was like $14 for a roll that was like 10"x15'
Posts: 986 | From: Detroit, MI | Registered: Nov 2004
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quote:Originally posted by Nomad84: What makes a good sound deadener? Do the properties of the material matter or just the weight? Also, I know that price, ease if application, and good adhesive are things to look for. Can anyone add to that list?
Damon
As far as weight to deadning ratio goes I like caulk although it isn't real cheap and it won't work everywhere the self leveling polyurethane sealant I have in my van works surprisingly well, I pour it in the air space between the sheetmetal and the mdf.
-------------------- Team Bass Coat
MTX MAXXSONICS Pioneer
Bruce Dressel
In loving memory of my sister Kerry Ann Johnson 1970 - 2008
posted
i did my entire neon in peel and seel (3 24x33ft rolls) it helped roof flexing a bit but really cut down on the rattles, only rattle i had left was the rear plastic bumper, it flexed a lot
-------------------- -shane 152.3 certified street A 2005 DBDRAG finals 6th place street 2006-we shall see Posts: 684 | From: omaha | Registered: Oct 2003
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