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I feel like I'm missing a lot of midbass in my car. I was thinking about get a set of 5.25 components and putting them in either some kick panels or door pods.
My amps have built in crossovers at 80 hz. I was wondering if 80 hz would be too high to cross the 5.25's over or not. Usually it's best to cutoff around 60...but I dont' feel like buying any new crossovers (probably couldn't afford any.. ).
I would be running at 80hz right now...but I have 4" coaxials in the door..and they start giving out below 150~200ish.
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Posts: 213 | From: Carriere, MS, US | Registered: Jun 1999
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posted
I don't really have a lot of space to make the kickpanels...so I figured the 5.25's would be alright. Since I'm probably going to cut them off at 80 hz anyway.
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Posts: 213 | From: Carriere, MS, US | Registered: Jun 1999
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posted
Will your 5.25's be bandpassed? 80-? What will the high pass be on the 4's. I feel the 5's will be weak at 80 hz but it's got to be better than the 4's.
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So your thinking going with 5.25's or 6.5's in the kicks running 80 to 3k and 4" sets in the doors? You may need to tinker with x-overs to get your soundstage to settle down with midrange coming from the doors and the kicks. Good Luck
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First off let me state my disclaimer, that way if I give you bum advice you won't hate me for it. I'm not anywhere near as advanced as tech and dukk, but I'm gonna add my two cents anyway. If It was my car I would be trying to get rid of those 4's anyway I could, If ya can't make room for kicks I would mount the 5" in the doors and experiment with the tweeter location, ie low in doors near mids, High in doors. A friend of mine has a set up where he had his 5" mids in the doors and then made lil brackets to mount his tweets in the kicks, It sounded good to me. but I guess this does nothing for your midbass problem huh?? I cant help ya much there, I feel that my oz-130's are lacking in mid bass and now Im experimenting with x-over points to see what I can do to get the bass anchored up front. good luck man and let me know what ya come up with.
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Posts: 59 | From: Fort Huachuca, AZ | Registered: May 1999
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It's a 92 nissan sentra. In order for me to be able to make the kp's fit properly..I'd have to do the fiberglass stuff inside the car. Because the car's factory kp's are raised about 4" from the floor.
I could make them...but I think just making some custom door pods would be easier. I just plan on cutting a hole in the door panels to match where the factory speaker holes are...and fiberglass from the panel to the metal door frame. Then i was going to cut a piece of 1/2" for the baffle and soak it in resin to make it stronger. Cover the baffle with some carpet to match my interior and mount the components.
I've never actually used fiberglass and resin before...but this isn't too big of a job..and it should be good practice.
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Posts: 213 | From: Carriere, MS, US | Registered: Jun 1999
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posted
I have a question, other than the obvious KP problem you mention, how's the space overall. How about this: You cut a small baffle to somewhat fit the corner where the firewall, floor and KP area meet. Then you tape up the area in masking tape. Then you start applying putty to blend the baffle into the areas it meets. Then when you done the putty (generally two coats) you sand it smooth and then wrap the simple shape in a carpet that matches the floor. Use a couple of small 90o brackets too mount it. You would take your drill and drive a screw threw a bracket into the floor after it was attached to the baffle using the 5.25 or 6.5 hole. It's not quite as trick but easy and works.
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Tech's idea works in a lot of cars. I made a set of templates for the last generation Cavalier/Sunbird like that. I can whip off a pair in 30 mins, start to finish, charge $90 and they actually image nice too!
It may wind up easier to put a big 6.5" into a KP than the door of a Sentra!!
The tip about the mid in the door and the tweet only in the KP works pretty decent too.
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And that's the bottom line, cuz: LORD DUKK SAYS SO!
The Big Show The Dukk says: Know your bass: PORT your damn box!! Have HoleSaw, Will Travel!
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The problem I'm seeing with this..is my foot slipping off the clutch and putting a nice little dent in the grills on these little boxes.
They would look really nice though. It's a whole lot easier than cutting holes and dipping stuff in resin too.
I'll just have to put a test piece of wood there and see if it interferes with my driving before I decide on mounting the speakers there.
I'm still kinda stuck on what to get though...I'm definitely going with 6.5's since I need to get down to 80hz. But I'm not sure what brand to go with. I have limited funds for this...seeing that I am *cough* currently between jobs.
I listen to a lot of rap and techno type music though. I need something to make those cymbals ring my ears!!!
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Posts: 213 | From: Carriere, MS, US | Registered: Jun 1999
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posted
If all you need is a midbass, the Coustic HT-807 is a killer midbass in the tradition of the sadly departed RF SP-64, not quite as beefy but very capable (and they're cheap too!)
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And that's the bottom line, cuz: LORD DUKK SAYS SO!
The Big Show The Dukk says: Know your bass: PORT your damn box!! Have HoleSaw, Will Travel!
posted
I was thinking about picking up some optimus 6.5's mid/woofs. I figure I like the optimus tweets why not buy some of the woofs and a pair of crossovers and built my own component set.
I have a alpine amp to push them..and a newly acquired kenwood eq.
That alpine is a sweet lil' amp though. It's probably the cleanest amp I've heard around here. And those unknown dayton 10's I have sound damn good on a punch amp. I figure if a brand like that sounds good because the amp..maybe some optimus' will sound alright too.
And if not..I could always sell them to someone around here
I like to show up people with these big bad expensive brands with my low budget system, that usually sounds better than their's cuz i know how to install it. haha
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[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-13-99).]
Posts: 213 | From: Carriere, MS, US | Registered: Jun 1999
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