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Author Topic: 93 ford explorer
chronic
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Hello, i have a 1993 Ford explorer XLT. I'm looking to improve my car audio in some way, shape or form...any help would be appreciated.

I am currently running a clarion head unit, clarion tweets/mids front doors, JL audio 5x7 XR's on the back doors and 2 JL W0 15's in a sealed box in the trunk. powering these i have a RF 4.6 and a power 200a1.


any ideas would be appreciated, either a makeover of my current system or a complete overhaul ..

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Posts: 18 | Registered: Jun 1999  | Report this post to a Moderator
Dukk
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Is there anything you particularly don't like??? There's nothing wrong with the choices you've made so far....

The one recommendation I could make would be to change to a ported box if you want more bass..........

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Lord Dukk
The Big Show
The Dukk says: Know your bass: PORT your damn box!!
Have HoleSaw, Will Travel!



Posts: 3690 | From: Abbotsford, BC, Canada | Registered: Mar 2000  | Report this post to a Moderator
Ber
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Dukk and his ports!!!!

I have to agree, go with ports or a bandpass if you can find one that isn't the size of your truck for a pair of 15s

Maybe adding a cap to your amp will help with some punch, or a BBE processor, in-dash equalizer, or even a decent trunk mounted equalizer (they can get expensive, audiobahn makes a decent one. Not sure if paramount - crossfire makes one) would all help increase your sound.

What does that "little" 200a1 put out (real world specs)? Would going to a bigger sub amp be in your forseeable budget?

Also, try sound-deadening your truck. By lowering the noise-floor you will increase the apparent "loudness" of your system, without having to purchase a new amp. There are several good alternatives to dynamat out there if a car full of dynamat is too expensive at this point.

Good luck

ub
"Captain Budget"

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Never tick off a klingon!


Posts: 7105 | From: No. VA | Registered: May 1999  | Report this post to a Moderator
chronic
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Thanks for the tips so far guys...

The power 200a1 is rated 273 watts into a 2ohm load. This amp is powering the W0 15"s, but the amp seems to be totally underworked Besides, the subs in the sealed enclosure are VERY sensitive ( something like 42 watts to power them adaquately) and are just too punchy and distort too much.

I was thinking of losing the w0's, and switching to 2 power dvc 12"s. I don't think my power 200a1 could power a pair of high end RF's, whether it be punch or power series, so i would need to get a more powerful amp, like a power 800a2.


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Posts: 18 | Registered: Jun 1999  | Report this post to a Moderator
Sir_Stickybuds
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well if ya go with RF u might consider DVC's over Power DVC's. With the 800a2 you'd be giving them the perfect amount of power and have the option of adding 2 more for a 1 ohm stereo load. if u go with the Power DVC's i'd look at 2 500a2 or 2 800a2 to really push them and rattle your teeth loose

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The Man, The Myth, The Legend, Sir Stickybuds


Posts: 2058 | From: South Bend, IN | Registered: Jun 1999  | Report this post to a Moderator
johnwayne_401
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Try porting your box first... It sounds like you have too big of a box for sealed... What are the boxes dimensions??? What is the box volume???

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Posts: 186 | From: Grande Prairie, Alberta, Canada | Registered: May 1999  | Report this post to a Moderator
chronic
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i'm not sure about the box dimensions (how would i find out, i'm not a car audio expert). I didn't build it..but i figured the reason it was built sealed was because they are 8 ohm speakers, and it was best suited.

i personally just think the W0's really aren't that good, even for entry-level or whatever. Since they aren't designed for high power, I didn't expect much, but they vibrate even at low levels. I don't think switching to a ported box will change that. I'm just going to have to step up to punch dvc's and a power 800a2.

Also, Uncle ber asked if i intended on getting a larger amp...i would assume you meant to power new subs, because the JL's aren't sounding too great with just a power 200a1.

one more thing..(i swear )...would i be porting the box i have? Again, i'm still learning all this good stuff.
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[This message has been edited by chronic (edited 06-18-99).]

[This message has been edited by chronic (edited 06-18-99).]


Posts: 18 | Registered: Jun 1999  | Report this post to a Moderator
johnwayne_401
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Ok man I hear your pain, I was once the uneducated guy... Ok here is what you have to do, grab a tape measure, or yard stick, or anything that will measure the outside... Then measure it and post the measurements here with a simple description of the shape of the box, and leave the rest to us fanatics...

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Posts: 186 | From: Grande Prairie, Alberta, Canada | Registered: May 1999  | Report this post to a Moderator
Ber
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I forgot another cheapy option, go get some poly-fill (the stuff they make pillows out of) and put 1 bag (1 pound) per sub/side. That may make the subs sound better, if the box ends up being too small, but if the box is already too big, then nix that idea.

What kinda sound are you going for? Type of music you're playing? Etc. That in addition to your current box measurements will help everyone better help you .

Good luck

ub

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"Captain Budget"
Never tick off a klingon!



Posts: 7105 | From: No. VA | Registered: May 1999  | Report this post to a Moderator
Rafmeer
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Roughly how much room is there in the back area between the hatch and back seat?
Posts: 30 | From: Charleston, MS | Registered: Jun 1999  | Report this post to a Moderator
chronic
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the box is 1'3" tall, 1' deep and about 3' long

there is about 3.5' of space front/back in the trunk

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Posts: 18 | Registered: Jun 1999  | Report this post to a Moderator
Dukk
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THAT may be why! Man, those things need like TWICE that kind of room to sound good.
You really should consider a new box before just tossing the 15s.......

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And that's the bottom line, cuz:
LORD DUKK SAYS SO!

The Big Show
The Dukk says: Know your bass: PORT your damn box!!
Have HoleSaw, Will Travel!


Posts: 3690 | From: Abbotsford, BC, Canada | Registered: Mar 2000  | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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