posted
I am not all knowing about car audio systems, but ever since I went to a DBDrag in Florida all I wanted was a BUMPIN car... So I have a couple questions...
1) When I am lookin at decks, it says like "50watt x 4-peak power"... what does that mean and can I use it with a 75watt RMS speaker?
2) What is RMS?
3) I also want a 500watt sub system. Will that work with the deck that only has a "50watt x 4-peak power"?
4) I guess I need an amplifier, but what is that for?
5) What is an "ohms"?
Sorry for being so ignorant about the topic, but I am trying to learn... Thanks a lot!
-------------------- Posts: 4 | From: West Virginia | Registered: Aug 2006
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posted
"Peak power" doesn't mean anything.The spec on the deck that matters is the RMS rating. RMS is the rating for continuous power.
As far as using that deck to run speakers rated at 75 watts RMS you may want/need MORE power. It depends on your set-up. (How many watts RMS the deck puts out, what speakers you're running, whether or not you're using any cross-overs, etc...)
"Ohms" is a resistance rating for the speaker. Generally component amps rate their power at 4 Ohms (meaning the power rating for the amp is based off powering a speaker that is rated at 4 Ohms). You may see something like this for an amplifier rating: 100 watts RMS X 2 channels at 4 Ohms. What that means is that if you run a pair of speakers that are rated at 4 Ohms you would get 100 watts RMS from the amp.to each speaker.If you were to run speakers with an 8 Ohm rating off the same amp you'd only be giving them 50 watts RMS each. With most amplifiers the amount of power being sent to the speaker will drop as the resistance (Ohms) of the speaker increases.
If you want a 500 watt system you have to get a 500 watt amplifier. I'm assuming you're talking about a 500 watt subwoofer.Yes you can do it with the deck you described, but you have to obtain a 500 watt amp. The amplifier is what provides the power. The deck you described has a built in amp, but it's probably rated around 25 watts RMS per channel. For a 500 watt subwoofer you would need a sub amp that produces 500 watts RMS X 1 channel.
Any of this starting to make sense? Martin
P.S. Why does your signature say "I'm not a racist"? Is it because you use the Rebel flag in said sig.? My experiance with people that say "I'm not a racist" is that they usually are.
-------------------- Too much of everything is just enough. Posts: 310 | From: BOSTON | Registered: Oct 2005
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Thanks a lot man! The whole "I'm not racist" thing is because on another forum, whenever people would start flamin me they would always call me racist... But I have a TON of black friends...
-------------------- Posts: 4 | From: West Virginia | Registered: Aug 2006
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posted
there is more to a system then a deck amp and sub. you got to make sure you have the proper wiring for the amp ie: Power wire being the corect gauge, good ground, remote, corect fusing and good rcs's for the deck to amp. for the sub you need the box sized right for the sub and if its ported you need to have the port tuned.
posted
They don't have a problem with it... I paintball and my barrel blocker is a confederate flag and one of them asked me about it and I explained that one of my great great great great grandfathers was a general in the confederate army. I told him it was about my heritage and not about being racist, so he understood... Yeah, I have a lot more questions... LoL...
Ok...
What Jon said went right over the noodle... I think is what I am going to do is go to Circuit City or Bestbuy and have them install it because I would break something... I just want to make sure they don't f* me and I want to get the best sound quality I can... If yall know any set-ups I would appriciate(sp?) that...
I am looking for something that has GREAT sound quality and bumbs... Not busting out my windows or DBdrag bumpin, but something so the people in cars around me look at me and think "Damn, what a nice system" (In reality they will probably be thinkin "punk kid")... Know what I mean?
-------------------- Posts: 4 | From: West Virginia | Registered: Aug 2006
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First off- Best Buy or Circuit City is not what I think of when I think SQ.
Next - How much do you want to spend? Figure roughly 50% of the price of the gear for the price of a good install. If you spend $1000 for gear you'll need to spend close to $500 for a decent install.
Not to burst your bubble- GREAT SQ costs huge sums of cash unless you're an extremely talented install person.You could spend 10's of thousands and still be looking for better SQ.
[ 08-21-2006, 09:52 AM: Message edited by: mjs ]
-------------------- Too much of everything is just enough. Posts: 310 | From: BOSTON | Registered: Oct 2005
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posted
I don't think you understand what you're sayin....
I'll answer as though you do understand.
Alpine F#1 head unit with 2 processors: $7500+
McIntosh amps: $10,000+
Good 3-way components + xtra set of tweets: $3,000
Ohio Generator aftermarket alternator: $500
Top shelf wire/cable: $500+
JL 10W7 subs (2): $1400
Custom install with tons of Dynamat: $5,000 to $10,000
Find the best install guy within driving range (research THOROUGHLY).
I'm sure I left a couple things out, but there you go. For a measely $30,000 you'll have a great SQ vehicle (assuming you find a GOOD install person).
P.S. As you can see this system doesn't include any screens...Also since you talked about great SQ I figured you wouldn't want any speakers in the rear.
Martin
-------------------- Too much of everything is just enough. Posts: 310 | From: BOSTON | Registered: Oct 2005
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You can get a really nice setup for about $2030 for equipment, and then about 5-10k for the sound deadening and custom installation. I don't agree with the JL subs though. You can find 1 sub that will sound a lot better than 2 JL's, and if you wanted to compete SPL (Sound Pressure Level) you could do it. I have one Kicker L7 12 in a slot port box, and held my own against people that spent a lot more just on the box. I also know and mjs is giving a price list, but you can mix and match equipment to adjust the price. I would not pay $7500 for a Head Unit and 2 processors. That is WAY to much money. I'm not sure where mjs gets wire and cable from, but I've never heard or seen wire and RCA wires for $500. mjs, if you see this post, please let me know where/what/size wire you use.Make sure to go to a reputable install shop. Find out if they are MECP certified, that is a decent clue as to what they know. If you have the option, try getting in with their "Master" installer. Talk to them to find out the many different options you have. A good shop will let you hear variations of the equipment they have, and will sit down with you to let you know what your options are.
-------------------- Jason 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada Kenwood 25 Anniversary HU 1 Autotek MX 1500.1 1 Kicker L7 12" Prefab box Alumapro 5 farad C.A.P. 1st Competition = 146.3db 4th place 2nd Competition = 146.9db 2nd place Posts: 18 | From: Honolulu HI | Registered: Aug 2006
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I'm just making a point. $500 for wire was a # I pulled out of my ass, but I think he gets the point. I'm not saying I'd spend $7,500 for a head unit (althought if I was a zillionaire that's the HU I'd have!). I'm just giving examples of what could be spent to someone that made the statement that "money is no issue". I think I succeeded in making him take another look at things because I still don't see a reply from Southern Pride. Martin
P.S. As far as subs go he didn't talk about SPL - just SQ. I'll put 2-10W7's up against any other 10's for SQ OR SPL.
-------------------- Too much of everything is just enough. Posts: 310 | From: BOSTON | Registered: Oct 2005
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I whole heartedly agree, I believe you did make your point. Mine was more of a piggy back to yours. I don't mean to sound like I'm argumentative. If I had a stupid amount of money, I would probably get that HU also You are right, he didn't talk about SQ or SPL. I just stated that with the right setup, he could compete if he wanted to. But I disagree with you on the JL's. I have one L7, I'm very sure that I can build a box for mine, and beat out JL on an SPL level with a one to one sub setup. As far as SQ, I would not use the L7.
-------------------- Jason 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada Kenwood 25 Anniversary HU 1 Autotek MX 1500.1 1 Kicker L7 12" Prefab box Alumapro 5 farad C.A.P. 1st Competition = 146.3db 4th place 2nd Competition = 146.9db 2nd place Posts: 18 | From: Honolulu HI | Registered: Aug 2006
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quote:Originally posted by BallzDeep: Everyone has a budget
X2 (absolutely)
Just as everyone has a different definition for "SQ".
Be realistic and establish design goals.
-------------------- Yes this is my sig, no there is nothing for you to read. Quit looking at me, nothing is going to happen. Stop staring at me, cut it out, leave me alone.... Posts: 3022 | From: AZ | Registered: May 2003
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Agree with both comments about budget, definition of SQ, and the design. My main point was the individual needed help, and I personnaly don't think a competition level HU was pointing him in the right direction (even if it's just being used as an example).
-------------------- Jason 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada Kenwood 25 Anniversary HU 1 Autotek MX 1500.1 1 Kicker L7 12" Prefab box Alumapro 5 farad C.A.P. 1st Competition = 146.3db 4th place 2nd Competition = 146.9db 2nd place Posts: 18 | From: Honolulu HI | Registered: Aug 2006
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