posted
when yuour readdy to make your xovers let me know there cakewalk unless u want 300+ watts each....
i loved my eclipse i cant wait to get them reconed ( i have 2 )
from earthquakes web site 15,000watts peak 7000 watts rms each coil ( i dont think dude was lieing ) dual 2 x 1 ohm 4" x 8" high temp military grade flat voice coil (4) quad nomax/romax spider
posted
check the .pdf manual on the holees, the different sizes have vastly different ratings
Eclipse is good stuff... and on the crossovers... well I would want to put a stupid 4kw through them
If you check the pdf, the smaller the holeeS, the less power handling.. But from the component specs, it's got the right stuff... specifically that flat wire 4" voicecoil. It looks like it's built in the same manner/style as the new RE XXX. I'm curious about the sensativity 1w/1m with an vc that damn tall... I think that's one of the places where that particular sub takes it in the pooper... that and the high ass tuning frequency... 40hz you can live with in a daily driver... 65hz... only if you listen to test tones..
4 d10s would be perfectly fine at 1 ohm all day every day... that would be .5 ohms per amp with them all strapped. The 2 at .5 ohms would have each amp seeing .25 ohms, and I would only do that for burps...
-------------------- Not just an another Internet Thug. I am also a Corporate Thug. Posts: 302 | From: Richmond, VA | Registered: Apr 2004
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posted
either way the holees are belching subs only imo
4kw at what f? not for a home system lol........ & for subs man powered xovers in the rca line are the are the way... i dont see any one running 4kw to cap n coil xovers...
-------------------- 2 wrong's dont make it right but it sure make's it even!!! Posts: 98 | From: california | Registered: Apr 2006
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quote:Originally posted by 00420: either way the holees are belching subs only imo
4kw at what f? not for a home system lol........ & for subs man powered xovers in the rca line are the are the way... i dont see any one running 4kw to cap n coil xovers...
ahhhh... yet another sign of what a fugging newb I am YAY!!! On the 4kw at what f? It's more about coil impedance combined with impedance rise of your enclosure. Even an efficient ported enclosure has a good bit of impedance rise. The least amount of impedance rise is going to be found at tuning frequency. If the amp is wired to see a 1 ohm load, at the enclosure's tuning frequency, the amp is actually still going to see anywhere from 8-14 ohms depending on how efficient the design is.
Bandpass is much more efficient in regards to impedance rise, but much harder on subs. Harder meaning you can't hear when the sub is destroying itself. But in the same scenario, if the amp was wired to a 1 ohm load, at one of the two tuning frequencies, it would actually see anywhere from 1.5-4 ohms depending on efficiency.
The lowered amount of impedance rise that you see from the sub/enclosure translates into more actual output power from your amp and that translates into a higher score...
Now the second thing you are looking for relates to some advanced physics. Quarter-wave theory. Some people look for the frequency of the vehicle they are using. Those ppl are newbs Fug That IMHO. Stephen Footz and Louise at USAudio in GLen Burnie MD turned me on to a different way of looking at tuning. Tune the box to the car.
Instead of worrying about where your car likes to vibrate at... look at it the mathimatical way. A sign wave, or a burp is represented as an S wave on an oscilliscope. 1/4 of that S wave on the scope is what your trying to make hit that damned termlab as hard as possible. That wave can be measured, with string and/or a tape measure. The wave starts at your sub and travels either directly to the mic position or has to reflect off of hard surfaces and reach the mic position. That Quarter wave length can then be mathematically converted into a frequency. I know that you've heard that a bass note is freaking huge, i.e. long, which is why you car sometimes sounds louder outside than inside.
That's half of the secret... the other half is the 3/4 Wave theory, or the Backwave.... Now the back wave starts life, exactly 180 degrees out of phase, because it's generated by the rear of the speaker. It also has a different and usally longer route to take to get to the termlab so it can bust it da fug up. This length is also measureable and can be translated into a frequency...
Now here's how you get loud... You need to crunch numbers and break tape measures to figure out exactly where you need to put that woofer in YOUR vehicle so that the front wave and rear wave are hitting the mic at the same frequency. Do that, and all else being equal, you will be loud. World record breaking loud.
Actual subwoofers and amplifiers used is relatively immaterial. Having sensative subs and powerful amps is nice, but that is not what it takes to win. That is what it takes to stroke our male egos. I know, because I'm guilty of spending more in money on amps and subs instead of spending elbow grease and brain power crunching numbers and testing enclosures...
But I'm getting better I'm also getting louder!!! There you go. The secret to spl served up to you on a random post from a guy that has never competed in a single db drag show. MECA doesn't count I hope you and anyone else that reads this takes it to heart, because there's actually alot of math involved in getting loud, not so much of it is actual guesswork, at least when you start talking about 179.1 db vehicles...
Once again, all props to Stephen and Louis at USAudio in Glen Burnie, MD for taking the time to school the new. Much love.
-------------------- Not just an another Internet Thug. I am also a Corporate Thug. Posts: 302 | From: Richmond, VA | Registered: Apr 2004
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posted
disregard that part about 4kw... I would want to push 4kw through the crossover between 50 and 80 hz. Sorry, not putting my freq out there for everyone to absorb..
I'm old school at heart. I would really like to set everything in my system up with passive crossovers and run the front highs, mids, and rearfill off of a single amp at a stupidly low impedance.
For the home system, I haven't even shopped for a reciever yet... but I do know what I'm using for a sub... http://www.decware.com/whornok.htm If you have the extra time and ANY 8's, 10's, or 12s to play with... that horn will blow your freaking mind. I keep telling people and they keep sleeping on it. I have a buddy with a jetta and we built a 36" horn with a pair of powerbass 10's (cheap 30.00 speakers) and a 30.00 pyramind "400" watt amp... and mind you, I run exclusively 15s in sealed and ported enclosures with nothing less than 2kw for daily... and that phucking horn with those crap 10s is loud ass ish...
It's basically a bandpass with a small sealed area, moderate ported area, and a very, very, very long and wide port/throat. But like all bandpass boxes, it takes up alot of space. But it's a full range design that sounds incredibly good. I've built 3 and have yet to be disappointed with any of them. Next one might be made using some 6.5" subwoofers that just came on the market. I will definitely be using one in my next HT setup as a subwoofer/coffee table.. Looks tight with a 1" thick ballistic glass top on it...
-------------------- Not just an another Internet Thug. I am also a Corporate Thug. Posts: 302 | From: Richmond, VA | Registered: Apr 2004
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its either the nsb 90 or the stinger 2150 thats what i can get from the shops around here....... i hate to have stuff shipped its a pain.... so i buy local....
so witch one boys?
god i wish it would stop raining so i can get on with this ........... i hate not having a garage to work in.......
-------------------- 2 wrong's dont make it right but it sure make's it even!!! Posts: 98 | From: california | Registered: Apr 2006
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posted
I'm in the same boat.. with the no garage and the battery... I was originally 100% decided on the NSB-90, but it's a telecomm battery and really needs a special standalone AGM charger. Not an automotive alt. An alt will charge it, but not correctly. Due to the improper charging, it may only last 4-6 months of normal use.
A 2150 is meant for a car/semi/tank and will be fine with being charged by an alt. It should also last at least 5-7 years... which isn't bad for 200 bucks..
I've decided on the 2150. I've also decided against buying the new and uber T3 Audio TSNS 15 subwoofer and instead am going with a tried and proven DD9515. Guy locally has 4 of them for 375.00 each. I can get recones for 80.00 that will upgrade them to 9915s which are dealer cost $600.00, nevermind retail at $1300.00.
-------------------- Not just an another Internet Thug. I am also a Corporate Thug. Posts: 302 | From: Richmond, VA | Registered: Apr 2004
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quote:Originally posted by Nphocus: I'm in the same boat.. with the no garage and the battery... I was originally 100% decided on the NSB-90, but it's a telecomm battery and really needs a special standalone AGM charger. Not an automotive alt. An alt will charge it, but not correctly. Due to the improper charging, it may only last 4-6 months of normal use.
A 2150 is meant for a car/semi/tank and will be fine with being charged by an alt. It should also last at least 5-7 years... which isn't bad for 200 bucks..
I've decided on the 2150. I've also decided against buying the new and uber T3 Audio TSNS 15 subwoofer and instead am going with a tried and proven DD9515. Guy locally has 4 of them for 375.00 each. I can get recones for 80.00 that will upgrade them to 9915s which are dealer cost $600.00, nevermind retail at $1300.00.
ya 4=6 months aint enuff time... stinger it is...... my shop dont have it on hand ( lame ) nor do they have 1/0 in stock so ****y.....
but they can get me "cut to size" so i wont have extra or will i have to deal with cutting it.. i was just pm'd about the nsb only lasting a few months so im stinger all the way....
i have it on order and going out to the car in the rain to run a 4awg line to see what size of 1/0 i need with getting it cut to size i might be able to get a 3rd line this time
-------------------- 2 wrong's dont make it right but it sure make's it even!!! Posts: 98 | From: california | Registered: Apr 2006
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I can give you my mafia don hookup on 0 gauge wire by the 50 ft roll. My price, for you my friend, will be much less than $2.00 per foot shipped. The catch is you buy from who I tell you to buy when I tell you to buy how I tell you to buy and you keep your mouth shut about anything you see, smell, touch, or hear. Don't even think about it!!!!
Oh, and don't mind that red stuff... it's packing adhesive... 4300 strand count made by Mobile Spec, their Pro Ice line..
-------------------- Not just an another Internet Thug. I am also a Corporate Thug. Posts: 302 | From: Richmond, VA | Registered: Apr 2004
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posted
he doesn't like to be called Scar face. it was a childhood accident that he doesn't like to be reminded of.. Kapeesh?
-------------------- Not just an another Internet Thug. I am also a Corporate Thug. Posts: 302 | From: Richmond, VA | Registered: Apr 2004
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posted
my local guys says 2.50 a foot ( stinger 1/0 ) if i buy the battery from him 3.00 if i dont.... not having to buy that extra ( for the 50 foot rolls ) will pay the extra im gonna have to pay here thx for the lead tho.... i dont really wanna mess with extra wire....
-------------------- 2 wrong's dont make it right but it sure make's it even!!! Posts: 98 | From: california | Registered: Apr 2006
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posted
paypal mother****er, do you have it? And I said under XXX per roll, I didn't say how much... read between the lines.. I would tell you how much i paid for it, but you probably need your kidneys and have a normal gag reflex.
email erie on the price for 200 feet. then paypal him... trust me, he will blow the stinger price out of the water...
-------------------- Not just an another Internet Thug. I am also a Corporate Thug. Posts: 302 | From: Richmond, VA | Registered: Apr 2004
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posted
****ing nice... what did you use to weld that bracket? I can't help but notice that that is directly above your fuel tank, and I have a feeling you didn't drop the tank to do the welds...
fugging crazy arse injuns Seems like something I would do in my car and then tell everyone to never do...
-------------------- Not just an another Internet Thug. I am also a Corporate Thug. Posts: 302 | From: Richmond, VA | Registered: Apr 2004
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posted
still nice... are you putting that much great stuff in the rear quarter panels?
-------------------- Not just an another Internet Thug. I am also a Corporate Thug. Posts: 302 | From: Richmond, VA | Registered: Apr 2004
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quote:Originally posted by Nphocus: ****ing nice... what did you use to weld that bracket? I can't help but notice that that is directly above your fuel tank, and I have a feeling you didn't drop the tank to do the welds...
fugging crazy arse injuns Seems like something I would do in my car and then tell everyone to never do...
yeah for sure....... dont try this at home..... it was just a wirefeed.....
we where very careful when doing this we did not drop the tank but i did drain it 2 days ago and left the plug under it off along with the gas cap so it was somewhat safe he did very lil at a time so it did not get to hot nor did we go through the flooring there was about a 1/2" gap from the tank to the floor
im not the welder but it sure looked like fun
if ya see i took your idea on the copper ends... 1.85 each at ace much better then 20 bux for a gold one......
-------------------- 2 wrong's dont make it right but it sure make's it even!!! Posts: 98 | From: california | Registered: Apr 2006
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posted
ya so the past 2 days i have smoked 2 subs..... first one went in sec's... @ 8 ohms ) i took it back got one overnighted for me....
so i bring this one home hook it up i listen to 1 song ( not very loud ) go to 2nd song and strat to turn it up soon as i get it to where it starts making the car vibrate ( mirror's dash ect) still not to loud subs barely moving tag at a 13.9 v charge & POP..... ( same pop i hurd the first time ) i turn it down get out the
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