posted
ok so i been out the game for a minute or 2.....
heres the list i have so far to work with
1 phd5000 1 subzero 12" I built the box to earthquakes spec's for spl to the woofer i want to stay in the street A class
what battery would u go with?? in the rules it say 1 bat..... thats 1 extra right? 1 for the car & one for the system how many run of 1/0 should i run? & whats the best kind of wire to use this days? what else would u add to the system? deck, sound processers , ect.......
i have nothing but the sub / amp & box..... im working in a 1982 celca supra
posted
no !!! Competitors in the Street A and Street B classes are limited to 1 battery. Competitors in the Street C class are limited to 2 batteries.
Additional Guidelines:
· Aftermarket batteries are acceptable.
· Batteries must be of the 12-volt variety.
· Hybrid (ie 12/16 volt) and/or custom-made batteries are prohibited.
· The physical size of each battery is limited to 800 cubic inches (13110 cubic cm) or less. (Height x Length x Width. Excluding the battery terminals.)
· The primary battery must be located in the stock OEM location. The secondary battery (if installed) may be mounted wherever the competitor desires behind the B-Pillars or under the hood provided no other applicable rules are violated.
· Batteries may not be mounted underneath the vehicle. (Underbody battery boxes, racks, etc. are prohibited.)
· Batteries may not be swapped out during the course of an event.
6-7j The use of aftermarket interconnects and power cabling is permitted.
quote:Originally posted by kickeraccent: no !!! Competitors in the Street A and Street B classes are limited to 1 battery. Competitors in the Street C class are limited to 2 batteries.
· The primary battery must be located in the stock OEM location. The secondary battery (if installed) may be mounted wherever the competitor desires behind the B-Pillars or under the hood provided no other applicable rules are violated.
k let me make sure i got this right.....
im allowed 1 primary battery in stock oem loction thats it........
quote:Originally posted by kickeraccent: 6-7j The use of aftermarket interconnects and power cabling is permitted.
not trying to ba ass on this one but if i cant use "aftermarket power cabling" what do i hook my amp up to the tail light power lead's?
but really, if im allowed to have 1 battery in stock oem i have to run atlest 1. 1/0 back to the amp.
im sry but the new rule dont make much sence to me even if i put a secend battery in back what class would i be in im guessing "c" and would be up on ppl with 4 12's how is that fair?
-------------------- 2 wrong's dont make it right but it sure make's it even!!! Posts: 98 | From: california | Registered: Apr 2006
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posted
it says you CAN use aftermarket power cabling.if ya run two bateries you will need to step up to ss1-2nw . run 2 runs of power cable to back or even more there is not a limit on that only in street A and B one battery you will be against others that r runnin only 1 batt also .. just up grade the batt to a better one like a nsb 90 or somthing like that
Posts: 495 | From: harlan ,iowa | Registered: Jan 2006
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quote:Originally posted by kickeraccent: it says you CAN use aftermarket power cabling.if ya run two bateries you will need to step up to ss1-2nw . run 2 runs of power cable to back or even more there is not a limit on that only in street A and B one battery you will be against others that r runnin only 1 batt also .. just up grade the batt to a better one like a nsb 90 or somthing like that
thx,
i read prohibited. but it said permitted...
i must be to high
nsb 90 ? or a 125? what other batterys would be a good option? i used to run red tops back in the day.
what type of wire would u suggest to run?
-------------------- 2 wrong's dont make it right but it sure make's it even!!! Posts: 98 | From: california | Registered: Apr 2006
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posted
90 i think a 125 wouldnt fit not sure though go to the battery section and ask whats a good battery for street A and what amp your runnin and they will give ya good ideas . im new at this its my first full year and not up on batteries i run 2 yellow tops and i think they suck.i have to charge after every burp to get right power .but cant aford to get any new ones right now.look at some kinetic they make good batts
Posts: 495 | From: harlan ,iowa | Registered: Jan 2006
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posted
nsb 90 is legal for street a. most people have a 2150 oddyssey/stinger, a kinetic 3200 I believe, or an nsb90. The nsb is the cheapest for what It can do.
but i am getting other work that is need done this car has been setting in my back yard for 3 /4 yr's now. had to replace radaiter, cluch master cylender,( this was why i parked it ) then basic maintince stuff plugs plug wires all filters ect..... sure as **** just like i parked it. it fired right up... now to the fun stuff 4awg from 5 yrs ago this wire is stil good and will be used for highs amps/prossecers led ect. but for everything im doing i thought it would be best to pull out and ran with the rest.... so whats the best way to work...... ?
thats right tear it down babys..... headliner & all
-------------------- 2 wrong's dont make it right but it sure make's it even!!! Posts: 98 | From: california | Registered: Apr 2006
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posted
that last pic the box is above window line .. in street it needs to be below window line.
Posts: 495 | From: harlan ,iowa | Registered: Jan 2006
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posted
which earthquake sub is that? The Holee S? I don't know how serious you are about competing in db drag or what your budget is. If your just looking to streetbeat and have fun at shows, just build what you want and run whatever class it puts you into...
If you want to be competitive... Look at what you would have to be running against. Look at the results in different classes locally and at the last world finals. I was looking at SS 1-2 NW because I put money into a 16v charging system and I don't need a back seat. However, in order to be competitive I would need to do 155s or better with half a wall. World record is in the low 160's. I would also be in a class with other vehicles running 40 batteries because SS 1-2 NW allows unlimited size and number of batteries...
... Just something to think about.
-------------------- Not just an another Internet Thug. I am also a Corporate Thug. Posts: 302 | From: Richmond, VA | Registered: Apr 2004
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posted
ya sub up and port back. is the way most do it probally hit a way better #
Posts: 495 | From: harlan ,iowa | Registered: Jan 2006
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quote:Originally posted by Nphocus: which earthquake sub is that? The Holee S? I don't know how serious you are about competing in db drag or what your budget is. If your just looking to streetbeat and have fun at shows, just build what you want and run whatever class it puts you into...
If you want to be competitive... Look at what you would have to be running against. Look at the results in different classes locally and at the last world finals. I was looking at SS 1-2 NW because I put money into a 16v charging system and I don't need a back seat. However, in order to be competitive I would need to do 155s or better with half a wall. World record is in the low 160's. I would also be in a class with other vehicles running 40 batteries because SS 1-2 NW allows unlimited size and number of batteries...
... Just something to think about.
its the subzero when i bought it they where not shipping the holee;s just yet & was nto sure when they would on top of that the holee's are a "dbdrag racing speaker" this is my everyday car not a "db car" i like my q as much as db so i went with this insted of waiting on the holee's
im serious....( localy for the most part )
the reason i dont "just build" is i'd be in the same boat your in aganst 20 batterys
my first comp is on the 27th with this system so that will toss up some numbers for me and all be able to look ahead from there...
im going in blind folded like i said i been out for a few so i have no clue waht the guys around town are doing...... there useing a new tl meter so all have a good idea of where im at to start
my budget was spent on the amp / sub & getting the car running im barely going to make it in time for this show i get payed on the 21st and the show is on the 27th i cant even get my wire/ battery tell friday the 21st im going to run a old ass pice of **** deck from 5 yrs ago
i built this box for my home audio i can all ways make a new box for the car thats a cake walk i was just gonna use this cuz i dont have time to build one haha
the way it sets i could not do the plex idea anyways...... so this box after thsi comp will make its way back to the house & build a new one.....
posted
Dude, I so feel your pain. I just wrapped up 140 hours in a two payperiod. I get paid this thursday and have my first db comp next saturday. I was going to go ss1-2 nw, but I've scaled down to street B for now because I'm only running a single 15. I own about 5 different 15s from 4 different manufactures and have blown or broken all but one, and that one I tend to baby because if I break that one, it's no boom-boom for a while.
With my next check I'm doing 200 ft of 0 gauge mobil spec 4300 strand wire, a single www.northstarbattery.com nsb-90 (that's the battery everyone is using this season), a prototype T3 audio 15, a used Digital Designs 9915 from a local seller, a new 5v preout usb JVC deck, and an 80 gig laptop usb hard drive (for pron and music).
Only advice I can offer is save money for the right stuff the first time. Don't nickle and dime, because cheap becomes very expensive very fast.
-------------------- Not just an another Internet Thug. I am also a Corporate Thug. Posts: 302 | From: Richmond, VA | Registered: Apr 2004
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quote:Originally posted by kickeraccent: spend 35 bucks on a line drive so the rcas will be 10 volts.
yeah buddy... hehe i used to have a audio control lind driver along with the epacenter/esp2/2way crossover & dual 31 band eq2's the big ass white ones.....
i was thinking of a audio control linediver but if the cheaper ones work just as good all go with them for now as im getting low on my limits for this
-------------------- 2 wrong's dont make it right but it sure make's it even!!! Posts: 98 | From: california | Registered: Apr 2006
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posted
PHD5000, beastly little amp for it's size I mean. Makes power on 16v and down to .25 ohms for burps. I'm having trouble finding a sub that can take my PHD10000 without ripping spiders or making smoke.. and I have a second one waiting in the wings...
-------------------- Not just an another Internet Thug. I am also a Corporate Thug. Posts: 302 | From: Richmond, VA | Registered: Apr 2004
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quote:Originally posted by Nphocus: Dude, I so feel your pain. I just wrapped up 140 hours in a two payperiod. I get paid this thursday and have my first db comp next saturday. I was going to go ss1-2 nw, but I've scaled down to street B for now because I'm only running a single 15. I own about 5 different 15s from 4 different manufactures and have blown or broken all but one, and that one I tend to baby because if I break that one, it's no boom-boom for a while.
With my next check I'm doing 200 ft of 0 gauge mobil spec 4300 strand wire, a single www.northstarbattery.com nsb-90 (that's the battery everyone is using this season), a prototype T3 audio 15, a used Digital Designs 9915 from a local seller, a new 5v preout usb JVC deck, and an 80 gig laptop usb hard drive (for pron and music).
Only advice I can offer is save money for the right stuff the first time. Don't nickle and dime, because cheap becomes very expensive very fast.
i just ordered 2 x 50 foot rolls of purple / silver stinger wire with batter term's/ fuse blocks / 1/0 tee's ect..... i have a good connect for stinger stuff so i might end up with the 2150 i wanted to go with the nsb 90 but the price is just to high i would have to ship it n all no one loc has it
if that 15 dont hang for u try the holee's i talk to the tech at eathquake today about them he told me this subzero will take the phd5000 at 2ohms with no prob ( burps only )we will see
i think i might end up with a 12" holee heheh and put this subzero in my house im runnning 1100 rms to the subzero in my house know ( i have a earthquake home audio amp ) "hohmann" pro 800 bridged at 2 ohms and it slams pretty good for the house ( its 1100 rms at 4ohms bridged btw) so who really know i know my lights dim like a mofo when it hits hahah
-------------------- 2 wrong's dont make it right but it sure make's it even!!! Posts: 98 | From: california | Registered: Apr 2006
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posted
dude, two 50 foot rolls will go like nothing. I spent the past 2 days putting 300 feet of 12, 16, and 0 gauge wire into a 2000 camaro. I told him to get 200-300 ft of 0 gauge, like me. He got two 50 foot rolls... They were enough for two runs each of power and ground. The stinger T-Blocks are nice, we used them to bring the 0 gauge together under the hood and to the battery terminals.
He also is running a D10 along with a beastly 4 channel amp. Both accept 0 gauge power/ground inputs. The damn 4 channel actually takes 00 without any wire trimming... sick..
On the Holeee, at 2 ohms??? That's 800 bucks for a sub that's only going to handle half of what your amp can do, and only for burps at that... Fug that IMHO. On the other hand, that subzero looks vera vera nice.
Look into a www.ddaudio.com and their line of 3500, 9500, 9900, and if you win the lottery 99z series of subs. The 35 seris is billed as a mid grade subwoofer... yeah right... it's on par with RE's SX line and takes serious power... and the price is nice. People put 2kwrms+ on them for daily driving, nevermind the fact they are pretty sensative and get stupid loud.
If you save up your Spanish Dabloons(sp), I would recommend the 95 and 99 series. Only difference is the 99 uses a Formula 1 inspired softparts. I recommend them because there are people that I've met that have been running the same 95 sub since 1997 without a single problem or recone. The same people were at a show with a single 9512 in a 3.0 cuft sealed box running a single DD Z1 amp and putting a 148 up on the termlab.
I'm running the T3 because it's unique and I believe it's going to be the breakout subwoofer this season that turns alot of heads. I'm buying the 9515 as a backup, just in case there are problems with the T3. You can also have the 9515 reconed into a F1-spec 9915. They both use the exact same motor.
That hawker 2150 is a nice stout battery. The nsb-90 is still testing louder, but won't live more than 4-5 months in an automotive environment. Whereas that 2150 is a tried and proven beast and good for years of use. I've yet to hear anyone say a single negative thing about a 2150 except that they don't have enough of them.
-------------------- Not just an another Internet Thug. I am also a Corporate Thug. Posts: 302 | From: Richmond, VA | Registered: Apr 2004
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quote:Originally posted by Nphocus: [qb] dude, two 50 foot rolls will go like nothing. They were enough for two runs each of power and ground. The stinger T-Blocks are nice, we used them to bring the 0 gauge together under the hood and to the battery terminals.
On the Holeee, at 2 ohms??? That's 800 bucks for a sub that's only going to handle half of what your amp can do, and only for burps at that... Fug that IMHO. On the other hand, that subzero looks vera vera nice.
That hawker 2150 is a nice stout battery. The nsb-90 is still testing louder, but won't live more than 4-5 months in an automotive environment. Whereas that 2150 is
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