posted
Ok, I've got a '97 Integra... I'm trying to figure out how in the hell to run the 0 Awg power wire to my amp... from the battery in under the hood, to the amp in back of the hatchback...
any ideas???????
thanks alot guys!!!!!!!!!!!
-------------------- I wanna be where everybody knows my Teg!
quote:Originally posted by SpeakUpIcan'tHearYa: Most ppl are gonna say to run it under the car, but I found that my car had plenty of room for ANY size wire... strip your car down, and look
quote:Originally posted by SpeakUpIcan'tHearYa: Most ppl are gonna say to run it under the car, but I found that my car had plenty of room for ANY size wire... strip your car down, and look
k stripping down your car isnt what most people like to do.
in my honda i ran the power wire from battery underneath the car (secured with metal loops riveted to the car. then cut a big hole in my spare tire well and put one of those home eletrical fittings in the hole and clamped the 0awg in it. worked awsome.
-------------------- "MEMBER OF TEAM T.C.B" The CANADIAN Bass Team B.E.E.R "PROUD MEMBER OF TEAM XSCARAUDIO" 'Let Us Be Heard'
shortened sig for you guys Posts: 1294 | From: Langley, British Columbia, Canada | Registered: Mar 2001
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posted
Take out seat. 4 bolts, 8 min. Pull up trim pices. 4-6 pieces, 12-15min. Pull up carpet. Use hands, less then 5 min. Run wire, put back together. A few wire ties... No holes in car...
quote:Originally posted by bkman4: Take out seat. 4 bolts, 8 min. Pull up trim pices. 4-6 pieces, 12-15min. Pull up carpet. Use hands, less then 5 min. Run wire, put back together. A few wire ties... No holes in car...
I agree.
Posts: 169 | From: CA | Registered: Feb 2002
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posted
ok when i ran 0 everyone told me that it was giong to be hard. all i did was drill a hole in the fire wall. then i pulled up my tripm pices and stuck it under the carpit because u can't run it under the trim plate after u get to the back seat it is easy if u need any more email me cavrf@hotail.com
posted
Look to the right of the center console behind the carpeting that should be under you glovebox. I have found numerous wiring holes there and that is where I wired mine through and then I stuffed the wire along the running boards under the carpeting, beside the back seat (not visible) and into the trunk!
-------------------- 88 Silverado RCSB, 5/8 on 20's, shaved the f*** up, tinted, notched, but still not quite painted
posted
first off all you do not need to buy the audio 1-0 gage wire from your shop go down to your local home depot and you can buy 1-0 wire use to wire your home from the pole to your house it still will handel the 170 amp like the car audio wire and it's the same size as a 4 gage audio wire normaly used in your car and every car has room for 4 gage so it will be the size or 4 gage and it will realy be a 1=0 gage wire but keep in mind you have to per bent the wire as it is very stiff and hard to bend 15 ft of home depot 1-0 wire 3-1 f caps 1 mtx 1000d ohio gen alt 2 yellow tops 1 mtx rfl 152 15"- in 4.5 cf port box sony cdxm 650 HU alpine 1-4-6\9's alpine v 12 to run highs
-------------------- 3-1 f caps 1 mtx 1000d ohio gen alt 2 yellow tops 1 mtx rfl 152 15"- in 4.5 cf port box sony cdxm 650 HU sony 10 disk changer alpine 1-4-6\9's alpine v 12 to run highs is your not pushing the limits why live Posts: 3 | From: rowland heights,CA | Registered: Nov 2000
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I have each line fused with a 100 amp under the hood. This is ok, right?
What if one of your wires shorts and the other dont? True, it will pop your fuse since it is fused individually. However, you wont be feeding your amp the right amount of power, because with a blown fuse, you just cut your ampacity in half. The amp will run, but probably get your power wire hot trying to get the proper current it needs.
Posts: 5534 | From: CO | Registered: Apr 2001
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I have each line fused with a 100 amp under the hood. This is ok, right?
What if one of your wires shorts and the other dont? True, it will pop your fuse since it is fused individually. However, you wont be feeding your amp the right amount of power, because with a blown fuse, you just cut your ampacity in half. The amp will run, but probably get your power wire hot trying to get the proper current it needs.
Then it'll blow the other fuse too by trying to pull too much current through it
Posts: 16 | From: oh | Registered: Jun 2002
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posted
thats not a chance i am willing to take. The insulation could melt off the wire b4 the fuse blows, and by then it should have blown. But if the insulation gets hot enough to melt b4 the fuse blows, what do you think is happening to your gear? As an electrician, I have seen this happen many times where the overcurrent protection device, either it be a fuse or a breaker, does not trip in time, and blows out the device on the other end of the wire. Sure this could happen if it a parallel wire feed or a single wire feed, but if you run a parallel feed, and fuse each wire seperately the chances of something going wrong increases.
If you want to run a parellel feed for whatever reason, run a single line from your power source into a fuse block, then run the fuse block into a distribution block, then run your parallel feed from there......Or if you can find a fuse block that has multi taps off of the fused side, use it. But IMO fusing each individual wire for a parallel power feed is not a good idea!
Posts: 5534 | From: CO | Registered: Apr 2001
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posted
I don't see what's wrong with the setup... Say a 4 AWG cable is good for carrying 125A of current(May be more, may be less depending on the wire). Each one is fused at 100A. My 3 amps are fused at 75A, 75A, and 30A. If they do start clipping or a voltage drop causes them to pull over 200A total and the fuses on the amps don't blow, one of the under hood fuses will go. If this happens, all the current going thru the 2 lines will be forced through one of the lines, immediately blowing the 100A fuse on that line. Anyways, from what I understand of it, the cable has more current capacity than the fuses, so I'll be safe from melting the insulation.
But, I'm only a second year electrical engineering student, and have a lot to learn so I could be wrong.
quote:Originally posted by mtxzx2: I don't see what's wrong with the setup... Say a 4 AWG cable is good for carrying 125A of current(May be more, may be less depending on the wire). Each one is fused at 100A. My 3 amps are fused at 75A, 75A, and 30A. If they do start clipping or a voltage drop causes them to pull over 200A total and the fuses on the amps don't blow, one of the under hood fuses will go. If this happens, all the current going thru the 2 lines will be forced through one of the lines, immediately blowing the 100A fuse on that line. Anyways, from what I understand of it, the cable has more current capacity than the fuses, so I'll be safe from melting the insulation.
But, I'm only a second year electrical engineering student, and have a lot to learn so I could be wrong.
Well I am glad you are in electrical engineering school. Cause now I know you can relate to what I am fixing to say.
1999 NEC Table 310-16 P. 126:
4 AWG Copper at the highest insulation rating of 90 Degree C. is only good for 95 Amps of Current. So with that said, your 100 Amp fuse is to big.
1999 NEC Article 110-14(c)(1) P. 28 Says that Termination provisions of equipment for conductors larger than 1 AWG SHALL be used only for Conductors rated 75 Degree C. Meaning back at Table 310-16 the 4 AWG wire is only good for 85 Amps, not 95 according to the termination provisions.And then things like AMbient Temp come into play and current is lost due to the extreme heat under the hood.
I understand the fact that we are dealing with car audio and automobiles, but none the less, current carrying conductors are size and given an amperage rating according to size for a reason.
With the above articles I have read you from the NEC, I stand firm behind my saying that the fuse may not properly blow, causing the wire to get hot, possibly melting the insulation and starting a fire in your vehicle.
Only being in Engineering school, and not having any hands on installing an electrical job, I can totally understand why you would think the fuse would blow. Field experience speaking though, it dont always work the way it was intended!
I am not trying to piss anyone off, nor am I trying to cause any conflicts, I am just trying to shed some light as to why I believe it is wrong to run multi power wires to your amp rack when fused individually rather that a single fuse large enough to handle the task with multi taps out for the multiple runs of wire.......
Posts: 5534 | From: CO | Registered: Apr 2001
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