posted
im trying to locate my engine now. i have unplugged my rca's from the HU and i still have alt wine throughout, i know that means something just dont remember what it means though.. can anyone help me on this
-------------------- TEAM SHOCKER Team Kinetik Power Posts: 620 | From: windsor ON | Registered: Apr 2002
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Could be the rca's connections in the amp. could be alot of diferent things. Need more specifics. Is it only from one amp? Is this a full range amp? Does the noise change if you touch the chassis of the amp and a ground point on the car etc...
-------------------- Yes this is my sig, no there is nothing for you to see. Quit looking at me, nothing is going to happen. Stop staring at me, cut it out, leave me alone.... Posts: 3085 | From: AZ | Registered: May 2003
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posted
insufficient ground normally causes this problem so first step check the ground to your amp.
second step; check and see if your RCA's are a good insulated set, also make sure you dont have them running directly beside your twelve volt connection.
if none of this helps then you have a few choices. rewire the car hook up a different amp to the same wiring and see if it may be your amp causing the issue. and you could always try using a ground loop isolater (my least favorite of the options)
-------------------- Had a 98 chevy s-10 with a single re 18" sub and two autotek mx-3000's running it but i lost that truck and now i have a 2002 volkswagen gti that im just starting to work on lets see how it goes
JVC Double Din dvd/cd player PDR1000.1 2 memphis mclass 12s kicker 350x4 memphis pr components two rear loading horns. Posts: 918 | From: jacksonville, nc | Registered: Jan 2003
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posted
One possibility if that you have 2 grounds in the back of the deck, one from stock and one from your deck. If you leave one of these hanging your gonna get some crazy noise, and possibly a short in the future (just a warning). So you might want to check to see if you have 2 grounds in the back of the deck and make sure to ground em both if you do. That was how i fixed my problem
-------------------- 15" Fi SSD *copper coil* Hifonics BXI1206D @ 1ohm 3.75ft^3 box (thanks AZ_SS) with 33 OR 46 hz tune Optima 34 Red Top Big 3
142.5 Db's Outlaw 3rd place first ever competition. Player started skippin 5 seconds in... who knows if its louder. Well see next time :/ Posts: 481 | From: Az | Registered: Oct 2006
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posted
i had unhooked all rca from the HU meaning i do not have a signal going to my amp from the HU and i still have it. yes i used the factory ground for my hu and there was only one.. the car is a 99 300M.
-------------------- TEAM SHOCKER Team Kinetik Power Posts: 620 | From: windsor ON | Registered: Apr 2002
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posted
did you put a additional ground from the battery to the chassis when you attached the power wire, that is a mistake alot of people make including yours truely and it causes a bottle neck of negative ions trying to get back into the battery from the chassis ground, try it it also increases the flow of power to the amp....and that is a good thing
-------------------- 12 VOLTS BABY!!!!! TEAM STETSOM USA & SALES REP TEAM STINGER BUY OHIO GENERATORS WORLD FINALS COMPETITOR 2005,2006,2008,2009 SUPER STREET 1-2 CERTIFIED 161.0 DB MARYLANDS LOUDEST DAILY DRIVER N.S.P.L. STATE RECORD HOLDER 2005,2006,2007,2008,2009 TEAM USAudio Stetsom Sales and Service stetsomrep1@hotmail.com Posts: 2233 | From: Maryland | Registered: Oct 2005
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posted
You are starting your search at the wrong end of the system, unless the noise is a new condition of an existing installation. If the system has been up and running for some time and the noise is a new condition, then you'll need to start off by insepcting the following items:
The battery...the battery's power and ground cables...and finally the alternator. Start off with a simple visual inspection of these components. Look for the following conditions:
A wet battery (evidence of acid and fluid escaping the battery), corrosion on the battery posts and in the ends of battery cables, replacement is a good idea if you find excess corrosion, or at least a thorough cleaning. You can safely remove corrosion by spreading some baking soda on the posts and brushing with an old toothroush and water. Watch it bubble and eat away the corrosion then rinse with water. Be sure to wear eyeprotection and wash up with soap and water when you are done.
If you have access to a Multi-Meter then an examination of the system voltage should be performed as well. Look for the following conditions, in this order:
Engine off / voltage at battery / no less than 12.66v Engine at idle / voltage at battery / 13.8v to 14.4v Engine off / headlights on for 20 seconds then off for 10 seconds / then check voltage at battery / no less than 12.66v
If any of these tests produce results out of the acceptable range then consider having the battery and alternator professionally diagnosed.
If you are working on a new installation, proceed to the suggestions below.
Start by limiting the system to only the amplifiers that are noisy, generally the noise is being generated in highpass amplifiers and not normally a product of the sub amplifier. So with this in mind, pull the fuse(s) for your bass amplification.
With the engine running and the audio system powered on and playing at a moderate volume, listen for noise.
If the noise is still present, you can pretty much rule out a problem in the bass amplifier(s), if not, then there could be an iterference between the amplifiers and this is usually in either the power or ground wiring.
Next, disconnect the RCA's from the front/rear amplifier(s) and insert a "muting plug" into the RCA input sockets of your amplifier(s).
A "muting plug" is a male ended RCA plug that has the center pin and outer shield directly connected together. Providing a direct short between these two points on each channel of an amplifier basically introduces a "zero bit" signal to the amplifier. This "zero bit" sgnal would be the electrical equivalent of a perfect noise free connection from the head unit throught the RCA's and any other electrical components in-line with the amplifier. You can make a set of muting plugs by cutting the cnd off of an old set of RCA's and stripping the insulation off of the connected cable, then twisting the small center conductor with the loose outer shield wire so that they are securely attached, and wrapping the exposed wire with tape.
With the engine running and the system playing and the muting plugs inserted into the amplifier(s) input jacks, listen for noise. If the noise is gone you can rule out a problem with the amplifier and associated wiring, and resume your search moving to the next component towards the head unit, the RCA's.
The step by step, move through the rest of your system towards the head unit. Attempt to bypass or reroute RCA's and other electronic gear along the way, take extra time to examine each component for loose grounds and shorted wiring.
If the noise is still present when you test the system with the amplifier(s) muted you're probably going to have to look into the power and ground wiring, including the battery condition.
posted
its a new install. a new blue top batt. 4ott power wire. new HU. i used one pair of rca that were bad and the noise was horrible. i swiched them out for another pair that was good. and you could still hear the noise coming through the speakers that are powered by the 4ch orion amp. i pull the rca's completely off the brain for the hu and the amp leaving no connection from one to another and the noise it still there. i moved my ground in the back to try that.. the noise is still there. i thought about just running a groud for the amps from the batt in the front to the back just to check to see if that could be the problem
-------------------- TEAM SHOCKER Team Kinetik Power Posts: 620 | From: windsor ON | Registered: Apr 2002
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quote:Originally posted by AZ_SS: Ground loop. ..... Does the noise change if you touch the chassis of the amp and a ground point on the car...
****(with your hands)****
As weird as it sounds, try it. From the sounds of it, your amp is picking up induced noise. Now it's a matter of figuring out why.
-------------------- Yes this is my sig, no there is nothing for you to see. Quit looking at me, nothing is going to happen. Stop staring at me, cut it out, leave me alone.... Posts: 3085 | From: AZ | Registered: May 2003
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quote:Originally posted by team CANUSA loud- Craig: i pull the rca's completely off the brain for the hu and the amp leaving no connection from one to another and the noise it still there.
Right here is where you need to take the "bad RCA's" and sacrifice them for muting plugs to help narrow down your search for the source of the noise.
The act of removing the RCA's from your amplifier basically turns it into a high powered radio receiver, with no tuner. The amplifier's RCA inputs are searching for signal to amplify, and they are finding it being radiated from somewhere in your car.
Use the muting plugs to guarantee a clean signal being presented to the amplifier. Then you'll know if the noise is actually coming from the amp, or from somewhere else in the system.
quote:Originally posted by pimpin at my house: i have seen alot of wet batterys rest at 12.3v brand new...
This is true, all batteries on the shelf lose power slowly over time.
All lead acid batteries should be fully charged when they are put into service so that the alternator does not have to overwork itself getting the "new" battery up to a full charge. When new batteries are installed without being fully charged the extra load on the alternator can lead to premature alternator failure.
posted
I'd like to add my experience to this, as I am having the same problem.
Car: 2007 Honda Civic EX with Navigation (still using the factory HU- and dont intend to change it) I've only had the car for 3 months.
Equip installed: Tsunami wiring (power and RCAs) Kicker 06zx7005 5 channel amplifier Polk db6501 components in front Polk db651 coax in rear Kicker L5 10" sub
Now, there was no noise before the install, and Circuit City did the install (my big mistake). After the install, there was engine noise that was even there when the radio was off, and intensified when the lights were turned on.
Took it back, and here is what was done: 1. regrounded, still there 2. regrounded again, still there 3. unplugged the RCAs, still there 4. disconnected the main fuse, still there 5. uninstalled the amp (i.e. refund it, leaving only the polks attached to the HU- without RCAs, and yep...still there. 6. Tomorrow I have it scheduled to return the polks as well, and reinstalling the factory speakers.
This is baffling me to no end. The good news is I will end up with a better system, as I decided to replace the equipment with the following: Alpine R series 6.5 components and coaxs Alpine 250 4ch amp Alpine 650 sub amp Polk Momo 10" sub
...but would like to get rid of the noise problem first :/
any ideas here???
(maybe this will help the original poster as well)
Posts: 3 | From: Central NC | Registered: Apr 2007
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Polks returned, all back to factory now and no noise??? Now I am really confused.
It is possible that a speaker wire was grounded during the installation of the Polk component speakers, at a point in the system after the crossovers. When this happens the amplifier, even the internal one in the head unit, does dot usually shut down but picks up noise instead.
When your component crossovers are installed they should not be installed in the doors or kick panels. They need to be trated as if they were amplifiers. They should be mounted to a solid non-metallic surface, or at least make sure the circuit boards are isolated from metal in some way.
Like Mabeita mentioned, make sure that the wiring connections didn't touch any metal. If it does, you will get some REALLY nasty noise.
Now, you mentiond that you were getting alt. noise even while the main fuse is pulled. My hunch is that you are getting magnetic induced noise. Be cautious where they install the crossovers, they shouldn't be too close to the car's ECM. Give that a shot with the new components
-------------------- Yes this is my sig, no there is nothing for you to see. Quit looking at me, nothing is going to happen. Stop staring at me, cut it out, leave me alone.... Posts: 3085 | From: AZ | Registered: May 2003
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posted
i have had my muteing plugs in and still have engine noise. do i have a bad amp or is it in the power wires?? which were just replaced again from the batt back
-------------------- TEAM SHOCKER Team Kinetik Power Posts: 620 | From: windsor ON | Registered: Apr 2002
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