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A buddy of mine has an '05 Altima and is wanting to install an aftermarket HU... but the audio store he went to said he can't do it without replacing all of the speakers because the OEM's are 2ohm. Are they correct in that statement, or are most aftermarket HU's able to handle the 2ohm/channel load? TIA for any help... its been so long since I've stopped by that I almost forgot my log-in. Posts: 1766 | From: Indianapolis, IN | Registered: Feb 2001
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If the headunit have a good MOSFET output stage then it should be able to handle it, but I wouldn't recommend it long term as the headunit will generate a lot of heat.
My OEM rear speakers were 10 ohm and my uncle's caddy had 1 ohm front speakers
-------------------- 98 Cadillac Deville
Premier TS-C504s Cadence SeAqua amps 12" Kicker L5
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wire your two front up to 4 ohm, and the back 2 up to 4?
-------------------- 15" Fi SSD *copper coil* Hifonics BXI1206D @ 1ohm 3.75ft^3 box (thanks AZ_SS) with 33 OR 46 hz tune Optima 34 Red Top Big 3
142.5 Db's Outlaw 3rd place first ever competition. Player started skippin 5 seconds in... who knows if its louder. Well see next time :/ Posts: 481 | From: Az | Registered: Oct 2006
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quote:Originally posted by Bob the sound guy: wire your two front up to 4 ohm, and the back 2 up to 4?
He'd only be using one channel each front and rear to accomplish that... HU's don't really put out enough power to be splitting it up between two 6.5's or two 6x9's, IMHO. I'd assume the guy knew what he was talking about (probably just got the info from their computer); but I'd be interested to pull one of the speakers just to make sure they are 2 ohm.
Option two... and probably a more appealing one from a financial standpoint since he recently got married, got a new place, etc... is to retain the OEM HU and patch a LOC from the rear speakers to get a signal to the amp he wants to put in. I told him I'd look into the possibility of using a LOC without sacrificing any speakers. Looks like VEGAS10 deams it acceptable in THIS thread. I may not have been around in quite some time; but I remember enough about that guy to trust his opinion. That just leaves us to figure out what to use in substitution of a remote wire from the OEM HU to the amp.
Posts: 1766 | From: Indianapolis, IN | Registered: Feb 2001
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for the remote turn on use the red accessory wire in the ignition harness and you can use the green/yellow-black/yellow and blue-red wires for the line out converter
Posts: 95 | From: wisconsin | Registered: Feb 2006
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Thanks to everyone for their advice. We got everything put in last weekend. Used a LOC spliced off the of rear speakers for the audio signal and spliced into the above mentioned accessory wire for the remote turn-on lead. Worked great!
Posts: 1766 | From: Indianapolis, IN | Registered: Feb 2001
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