posted
I can only hope that people learn from posts like this. safety is number 1. and we are all guilty of doing dangerous things to get a project done. but when you look at the time to recover..... how much time did you save.
-------------------- 1968 IMPALA......
CLARION DRX9375R 2 OZ TWEETERS 4 OZ 5 1/4 IN THE KICKS 2 OZ 8" (200L)IN THE DOORS 2 OZ 12" (300L)ported 1 linear power 8002 1 linear power 3.2 2 linear power 2.2 linear pa2 "bb" linear power xo2 linear power x03 Posts: 603 | From: BAY AREA CALIFORNIA | Registered: Nov 2000
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I respect the table saw. I always make sure I don't have any distractions and focus on what I am doing. Like Hughes said always push toward the fence and clear the blade before you let go. If I don't feel comfortable about a cut I'll ask someone to assist me with pulling a piece through to avoid getting too close to the blade. I also make sure I don't wear anything that dangles near the blade like a baggy t-shirt, necklace, watch, or rings. One more thing I make it a habit of being aware of where my hands and are when the saw is on.
Posts: 174 | From: Midwest | Registered: Feb 2001
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posted
dont pull through the blade. the person on the other end is only a support. if the person pulls there is more of a chance of it kicking.
if you picture your hands forming a "v"
left "v" right
right hand pushes toward the fence and left pushes away from the fence. once it clears the blade completly, the left piece pushes away from the blade with out having to pay to much attention to it. the piece next to the fence which your eye should be on the blade gets pushed past the blade. at that point hit the off button and set your self up for the next pass.
granted most of us are using the small saws and dont have the table support we should, that is where the partner comes in. the partner should move with you in one fluid motion "supporting" the wood using you as a guide for the speed to move along. when the saw binds and starts smoking it is becaus your helper is ahead of you anc closing the gap after the sawblade. if the person is too slow, this can be an issue aswell. what happens is, they end up pulling the wood back into the blade after it has been cut. leaving burn marks and chewed up wood. also letting the wood sag off the table will lift the end at the blade. you will have to push down.... nothing scarier than pushing a full sheet down to you can get the last 2" cut on a long run because your support team is not correctly supporting. it takes some getting used to but it can work. if possible build yourself portable outfeed tables the same size as your saw. to the left and back of the saw. this will help tremendous.
another tip of the contractor saws. make sure that you measure at the front and back of the blade when setting the fence. noting worse than the fence being off 1/4" on one end. trust your metal square and not the cheap tape markings.
if you do bind a piece shut the saw down and check your measurements again. most likely you have moved the fence. always check your blades make sure the teeth are sharp and not missing. also spray it down with silicone spray it will keep the sides from getting gumed up. wax your table top with a good wax or spray type silicone.
for a good table top use a formica top and wax the hell out of it. a 3/4" sheet of mdf slides easily on the table.
and last for the moment until something else pops into me head......
use the damn push sticks. if you dont have one... use a piece of scrap. there is your new push stick. save your hands for future projects.
-------------------- 1968 IMPALA......
CLARION DRX9375R 2 OZ TWEETERS 4 OZ 5 1/4 IN THE KICKS 2 OZ 8" (200L)IN THE DOORS 2 OZ 12" (300L)ported 1 linear power 8002 1 linear power 3.2 2 linear power 2.2 linear pa2 "bb" linear power xo2 linear power x03 Posts: 603 | From: BAY AREA CALIFORNIA | Registered: Nov 2000
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posted
THANKS for the "support". deafy makes a good table!
-------------------- 1968 IMPALA......
CLARION DRX9375R 2 OZ TWEETERS 4 OZ 5 1/4 IN THE KICKS 2 OZ 8" (200L)IN THE DOORS 2 OZ 12" (300L)ported 1 linear power 8002 1 linear power 3.2 2 linear power 2.2 linear pa2 "bb" linear power xo2 linear power x03 Posts: 603 | From: BAY AREA CALIFORNIA | Registered: Nov 2000
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posted
I second what Impalaman1 Said. Definately make sure that the fence is square with the blade. As he said, check the front & rear measurements from fence to blade. If the blade & fence aren't parallel all of the other precautions that you take won't matter too much. The wood will get pinched and kick back at you. Be careful woodworking tools are easy to use yet even easier to misuse.
-------------------- Stereo West Auto Toys 2006-7 Mobile Electronics Magazine Retailer of the Year! SWAT Team Posts: 135 | From: omaha, ne | Registered: Aug 2002
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posted
I wish my pic would have came out as clear as shaven99ranger's.
This happened without the guard. I finished cutting a piece of wood, turned the saw off while the wood was still on the table. I really can't remember what else happened, except that my finger is pretty messed up.
This happened in March '06. I have very limited use of the finger, can only bend it 1/4 of the way at the second knuckle. To have full use of it again, I'll need to go to surgery.
So.. USE the guard. USE push sticks or scrap pieces of wood. Don't get near the blade. Don't stand directly behind what you're cutting.
posted
could it be from a dulling blade? my saw has never given me a kickback but lately ive been getting it
Posts: 1138 | From: florida | Registered: May 2003
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posted
This reminds me of when I was cutting some MDF for a box, and it nailed me straight in the gut. About 6 inches away from my sack.
I never use the guard, I was actually wondering what it was when I first opened the box.
Posts: 10 | From: Chicago | Registered: Jun 2005
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quote:Originally posted by IMPALAMAN1: dont pull through the blade. the person on the other end is only a support. if the person pulls there is more of a chance of it kicking.
if you picture your hands forming a "v"
left "v" right
right hand pushes toward the fence and left pushes away from the fence. once it clears the blade completly, the left piece pushes away from the blade with out having to pay to much attention to it. the piece next to the fence which your eye should be on the blade gets pushed past the blade. at that point hit the off button and set your self up for the next pass.
granted most of us are using the small saws and dont have the table support we should, that is where the partner comes in. the partner should move with you in one fluid motion "supporting" the wood using you as a guide for the speed to move along. when the saw binds and starts smoking it is becaus your helper is ahead of you anc closing the gap after the sawblade. if the person is too slow, this can be an issue aswell. what happens is, they end up pulling the wood back into the blade after it has been cut. leaving burn marks and chewed up wood. also letting the wood sag off the table will lift the end at the blade. you will have to push down.... nothing scarier than pushing a full sheet down to you can get the last 2" cut on a long run because your support team is not correctly supporting. it takes some getting used to but it can work. if possible build yourself portable outfeed tables the same size as your saw. to the left and back of the saw. this will help tremendous.
another tip of the contractor saws. make sure that you measure at the front and back of the blade when setting the fence. noting worse than the fence being off 1/4" on one end. trust your metal square and not the cheap tape markings.
if you do bind a piece shut the saw down and check your measurements again. most likely you have moved the fence. always check your blades make sure the teeth are sharp and not missing. also spray it down with silicone spray it will keep the sides from getting gumed up. wax your table top with a good wax or spray type silicone.
for a good table top use a formica top and wax the hell out of it. a 3/4" sheet of mdf slides easily on the table.
and last for the moment until something else pops into me head......
use the damn push sticks. if you dont have one... use a piece of scrap. there is your new push stick. save your hands for future projects.
You can talk all this ish you want....give all these directions, and people can follow the safety guidelines as closely as possible.
It STILL only takes a fraction of second to get f'd up.
quote:Originally posted by SoundWerx-dreid: thats what that guard is for its sitting next to the table saw on the floor lol
A refresher why you should pick that gaurd back up and put it on....as well as respect the table saw....
It only takes a millisecond for things to go wrong and f&(% you up bad!!!!
ps.....over a year later and that index finger thats folded over in that pic.....still looks just like that and doesn't move at all. I still don't have feeling in those three fingers.
Wow man .. Thats terrible, good to see nothings missing i guess .. How exactly did it happen
Posts: 603 | From: minnesota | Registered: May 2005
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posted
granted all the above should be taken seriously, but if you raise the blade up higher it'll reduce your chances of kicking back because the blade is rotating more downwards toward the table when its higher than if the blade sat lower where it would be rotating forward more...make any sense???...im not the best at explaining things lol
-------------------- Team S.P.E.A.D. Usaci Pro Stock 3000+ and Street Beat 3 Usaci Louisiana Super Stock 301-900 State Record Holder Posts: 93 | From: Baton Rouge, La | Registered: Apr 2006
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posted
Makes sense, but as long as you know how to use the table saw you shouldnt have a problem.
Just like everyone said, use old board as push guides and dont have your figers anywhere near the blade.
Posts: 10 | From: Chicago | Registered: Jun 2005
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quote:Originally posted by SoundWerx-dreid: thats what that guard is for its sitting next to the table saw on the floor lol
A refresher why you should pick that gaurd back up and put it on....as well as respect the table saw....
It only takes a millisecond for things to go wrong and f&(% you up bad!!!!
ps.....over a year later and that index finger thats folded over in that pic.....still looks just like that and doesn't move at all. I still don't have feeling in those three fingers.
Is that it? You dont want me to tell my story... I think i got ya beat... No for real though gaurds are there for a reason(to take em off)... but most of the time if its kickn back the wood is in a bind and ya dont have equal amounts of pressure like someone mentioned before...
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Don't raise the blade any higher than it needs to cut the material you are working with. That way there is more surface area of the blade on the material.
Also, a 40 tooth blade will kickback more than an 80.
Oh, and Carlton was cutting PVC in a tablesaw when that happened. Cut your PVC with a chopsaw or jigsaw.
quote:Originally posted by constantbass: I just use a circular saw.
I've heard of people getting nasty kickback from those, and it runs through their quads and rips deadly veins in the legs. not saying they shouldn't ever be used.
and haven't you guys heard of the electro-brake things? the blade is supplied a charge, and once it hits the moisture of flesh or ionized water, the blade gets a destroyed and thrown instantly downward. I've seen tests they did on hotdogs, and it was amazing how much safer it was. At about 200bucks every time it goes....cheaper than the emergency room and losing body parts.
Posts: 5976 | From: Columbus, OH - formerly FL | Registered: Oct 2003
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quote:Originally posted by doublex: granted all the above should be taken seriously, but if you raise the blade up higher it'll reduce your chances of kicking back because the blade is rotating more downwards toward the table when its higher than if the blade sat lower where it would be rotating forward more...make any sense???...im not the best at explaining things lol
but then you have the blade sticking up higher, and a lot better chance of something accidentally brushing across the blade, which is now sticking out dangerous, and not cutting as efficiently.
and like some of you, i have ran part of my hand through the tablesaw before. i didn't cut the end of my thumb off, i shredded it across the spinning teeth. i was ripping thin trim boards down. one was warped in two directions and i should have had a higher toothcount. it jumped and across went my thumb. everyone asked why i didn't get it stitched back on. well, it wasn't sliced off, it was shredded like burger. I was out of supa-glu, so i went to the neighbors and got some crazyglue. put on a thick layer. then another. then another. wrapped it with papertowels and scotchtape...now days..not only is the bone not exposed, but you cant even tell it ever happened. crazyglue is like miracle grow for thumbs.
Posts: 5976 | From: Columbus, OH - formerly FL | Registered: Oct 2003
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posted
i think that's a common problem. now I've found one reason to be happy that my tablesaw is back in florida
Posts: 5976 | From: Columbus, OH - formerly FL | Registered: Oct 2003
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quote:Originally posted by shaven99ranger: [QUOTE]Originally posted by SoundWerx-dreid: [qb] thats what that guard is for its sitting next to the table saw on the floor lol
A refresher why you should pick that gaurd back up and put it on....as well as respect the table saw....
It only takes a millisecond for things to go wrong and f&(% you up bad!!!!
ps.....over a year later and that index finger thats folded over in that pic.....still looks just like that and doesn't move at all. I still don't have feeling in those three fingers.
well that settles it i am never using a saw again thanks carlton lol that looks awful man my god how can you stand to look at the pics?
-------------------- Team Notoriously Loud Mafia http://brothersbodyshop.com Custom Airbrushing and Vehicle Restoration Posts: 2518 | From: philcampbell, al | Registered: Aug 2006
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I won't lie....bar none the most painful thing I've ever had happen.
I've crashed into a tree, flipped and rolled my truck, gone through a windshield, been hit by a car while on a bike, been stabbed, fell off a 2 story roof and more!
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