posted
well here it is. my first time ive ever tried glassing myself! when i was a kid i did help my dad patch corvete bodys. well started to glass the floor for my rear under bench seat encloser. which will hold 1 RE SX 12inch sub, with a 6inch aero port firing out from the passenger side towards the side.
so far i got the majority of the floor done with one layer BUT i ran outta resin so i couldnt get the whole floor done yet. also ran outta money and cannt buy any more resin till i get my check tomorow and cash it.LOL
i figure ill buy 2 more gallons of resin and HOPEFULLY that will be enough to do the floor and also glass in the MDF side frame which ill be able to screw the majority or the rest of the box to. i will also glass the front of the box in the middle where the sub will go. but on the sides just MDF
I HOPE IT TURNS OUT NICE! i plan on working out the box for awhile to get the front paint worthy! and also resin the whole front of the box for a slick smooth paint finish as well ill be reposting update pics of progress as it goes.... but for tonight im leaving the truck out in the shop and driving my old jimmy to work tomorow. so i dont have to worry about the fumes and being in that closed in position. LMFAO
but so far I THINK it looks good. i used the biggest weave for these first layers BUT next ill try the smaller wear glass i got and if it doesnt turn out any beter ill just use the regular matt glass.... which im sure i can saturate alot beter!
i put the right side piece on alittle to much resin... i just couldnt spead it out.... it just kept running back down.LOL
what do ya think so far? was it saturated with resin enough..... or did i not get it pressed in good enough? like i said this is my first time..... i need advice if ya got it!
also i will be lifting the rear bench seat probably about 4inches or how ever much i need i get ruffly 3cubes!
ill have to level out the box and fill it with sand to find out how much space it has so i can calculate the rest of the box! i hope to get the floor all glassed tomorow and then be able to pop it loose from the floor and start building the frame around it! but would sanding the MDF on the sides with some ruff sand paper give the glass enough grip to it?
and yes i know i have blue seat belts.LOL i sold my original grey belts when i had my last 2 15inch SXs thinking i didnt need them.... and i can only find blue seat belts to replace them with and im not sure but I HOPE i dont need to extend the middle latches with lifting the rear bench I HOPE!
posted
Your middle latches should be ok. I have a box behind my rear seat an the bottom of it is on top of those latches, so basically the belts lay flat on the floor, all the way to the edge of the hump, and they still reach...
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quote:NDMstang65 (9:54:55 PM): scottie gagged me once...
Posts: 8008 | From: Camdenton, Missouri, USA | Registered: Feb 2001
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posted
but ya think the glassing looks good or alright...LOL tho minus the one piece left front piece where i just ran outta resin from what ive rear the glass is suposed to be clear when its fully saturated. but then again those people used matt instead of like this cloth.... but next layer i will use the smaller weave glass and after that try regular glass. just trying to experiment and see what looks like it works out the best...... i didnt think this floor would be adding up $$ so quick tho.LOL but ive always wanted to try it over MDF boxes as well as aero ports which ill be using as well.
this project will tell me how much more i will work with fiberglass.LMFAO after this it will be my door panels and Apillars for my components!
posted
should have applied the glass a little more even, so it would have looked better
-------------------- 2006 Bass Race 149.9 World Finals 2nd place H.O. Alts FI If you dont like what I have to say, just contact Boomingcreation he will erase it for you Posts: 16072 | From: tx | Registered: Dec 2003
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posted
aa... its my first time.LOL plus i ran outta resin which screwed me all up for the night plus i need some beter gloves. ill have to get some from my work tomorow. ones i got either let some resin thru or the powder realy iritated my hands which made my try to work quicker cause it was like burning sentation even tho i doubled them up on my that hand. i guess they where to cheap! live and learn.... but i guess its either good enough or people dont wanna post..... hoping someones got some advice. i couldnt find any steel rollers to use but i did find alittle roller that had a hard plastic with like some teeth on it..... had to deal with that. ill check out home depo tomorow and see what they got thier. so far everything was purchased at either walmart, autozone, dollar store.
i didnt know resin put off that much heat tho! i put my hand over the top of it after i got it applied and it was quite a bit of heat comen off it!!!!!!
posted
Well I think your off to a good start for your first time, I havent used a roller myself I hear they help I use a bondo spreader to get my airbubbles out.
What I do for the really thick cloth is have a container big enough to dip my cloth into the resin so its fully saturated when I lay it down then I use my spreader or brush to make sure it lays flat with no bubbles.
Keep going, you'll see you get better at it as you go along. it just takes patience and practice.
posted
lookin good so far,,,,what do you pay for a gallon of the bondo brand resin ,where you are...
-------------------- (Originally posted by Notloudenuf) "i like how it looks like you poured the center console into the car. " Posts: 1686 | From: Sioux Falls South Dakota | Registered: Sep 2002
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posted
looks good so far, u need a lot more layers though, since u didnt use any owood on the floor. ideally the top hump and the part where it drops down and goes to another flat part, both of the flat parts could of been wood, and just the drop being glass. looks as though u dont have many if any air bubbles, so it should be strong if you put a few more layers like you have now. i would get some nylon rope and curve it around on the piece for some added strength though. thats just me.
Posts: 385 | From: Hattiesburg Mississippi | Registered: Jan 2006
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posted
well adding my second layer right now and using the smaller weave which is DEFINATLY easier to work with and also in smaller pieces...
done about half the floor now just taking alittle break for about 10min then ill be going back out and hopefully covering the whole thing with the second layer and HOPEFULLY when i pop it out tomorow it wont warp any! and then ill lay down a few more layers with the regular matt till i think its strong enough. but so far that one layer seemed to be preaty dam hard.LOL
i also hear ya with the MDF i realy should have so it wouldnt be using this much resin! this will definatly be the last HUGE area i glass in my truck for quite some time.LOL already spent like around 150bucks on supplies for this resin is like 31bucks a gallon. glass ran me about 70shiped, plus i bought another pack of matt at autozone. with brushes and containers.. and blabla bla. o ya good GLOVES.LOL i was gonna take some from work BUT forgot. had to buy some. ill post some pics after i lay down this layer. so far it is looken beter! and definatly geting easier! started measuring the hardener by how much is left in the little tube instead of DROP DROP DROP DROP DROP DROP DRPO.... forever seemingly! LOL tho again first mix i screwed up AGAIN and it got hard preaty quick! so i cut down on the hardener alittle. worked alot beter for the second mix! but its definatly true... takes a min to get used to but then goes preaty smoothly. tho get a good mask.LOL this crapy mask keeps jabing me in the eye everytime i look down to much
posted
I don't think you taped enough area off. You are cutting it very close to where you're glassing. I would have went way up the sides and way down the front. That isht is hard to get up if you get it somewhere you don't want it.
I'll be starting my first project sometime this summer. I'm thinking of doing a couple of those TB 6.5 subs in kicks and I want to learn to glass.
Posts: 3279 | From: North Little Rock, Arkansas | Registered: Apr 2003
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quote:Originally posted by addiction2bass: I HOPE IT TURNS OUT NICE! i plan on working out the box for awhile to get the front paint worthy! and also resin the whole front of the box for a slick smooth paint finish as well
I wouldn't do that....unless you plan on doing it 2x, sanding inbetween and then bondo etc. I'm not sure what the finished product is going to look like, but IMO vinyl is much more practical for a daily driver.
Posts: 2276 | From: East | Registered: Jan 2003
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quote:Originally posted by addiction2bass: I HOPE IT TURNS OUT NICE! i plan on working out the box for awhile to get the front paint worthy! and also resin the whole front of the box for a slick smooth paint finish as well
I wouldn't do that....unless you plan on doing it 2x, sanding inbetween and then bondo etc. I'm not sure what the finished product is going to look like, but IMO vinyl is much more practical for a daily driver.
I agree...resin isn't going to give you a smooth finish to paint over even with sanding. I would putty over any screw holes with wood putty and sand it out then paint it or over it with carpet/vinyl. I really need to get pics of that box I did recently because I forgot to take pics. I puttied every seam in the front and every screw hole and it looked seamless when I finished. This wasn't the first box I did that way either. Pretty much any box I plan on painting gets a nice treatment of wood putty. It's easier to work than bondo and serves the same purpose.
Posts: 3279 | From: North Little Rock, Arkansas | Registered: Apr 2003
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posted
ok sounds like a plan on saving resin. but man after laying out so much glass im begining to wish i didnt glass the floor. and then just made it outta MDF and just glassed where the sub is coming out from.... BUT ive already spent like id say around 150-200bucks on this.. I HOPE IT TURNS OUT and doesnt bust when i pull it outta the truck! if it cracks i might just loose it and crap all that and just do MDF and glass the front and forget about the rear passengers and let them drive thier head into the roof if i hit a bump.LOL time will tell! im just gonna give it over night to dry and try to pop it loose tomorow when i get off work. I GOT MY FINGERS CROSSED!
posted
You'd be silly to scrap that much work if it cracked while taking it out. Once it's out just resin over the crack and lay down some more mat. I'm sure you're taking it out to add some more mat and put the sides on anyway right?
Posts: 3279 | From: North Little Rock, Arkansas | Registered: Apr 2003
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posted
ya... well i was tired of waiting and it felt hard enough....... POP its out. luckely no pops or cracking noises... IM SO RELIEVED RIGHT NOW!!!!!!!!
so hopefully it will turn out realy nice . ill be cuting it up to shape tomorow and start cuting some MDF and then glass in around that. but still got my fingers crossed trying to take it one day at a time now that I HOPE the hardest part is done or should i say most expensive.LMFAO
actualy didnt add a full 2nd layer... used all the second gallon of resin on reinforcing the biggest curves.
BUT for not adding much.... this stuff is preaty firm! only part that moved alittle with me steping on it is the middle hump cause its only got one layer on it. so i didnt realy chance puting tomuch weight on it! and lets just say using foil over my layer of tape HELPED ALOT!!!!!!!!! when poping it loose!!!!! only grabed alittle cause i didnt foil the front part of a few inches.LOL
posted
i would add another layer for sure. i would worry about strengthening the flat areas more so than the curved.
Posts: 385 | From: Hattiesburg Mississippi | Registered: Jan 2006
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posted
LOL well show me what its suposed to look like PLEASE. like i said im a straight noob with this glassing. im trying to get the glass saturated enough so it gets hard! tho with using the regular matt i shouldnt have to use so much resin cause its so thin... so i shouldnt use to much resin on it... but this thick weave stuff i had to do alot of brushing and also used a steel wire brushes to force it into the glass weave. but im taking afew days off it and work on my impala and my crx. both need the carbs reinstaled.
posted
Nice job hope you get wut you want. Figure out the top yet?
As for pointers the thicker weave you were using is BTI. The stuff is actually great for it's strength. You layed it fine and it does require lots of saturation, but you did add a little to much. Over saturation was part of your problem with the sliding. Also next time you want to use the stuff try addin one layer of the mat first. This will assist somewut wit the sliding but will also protect against "wicking" while also providing a nice finish on the bottom. Wicking is a leaking process associated with the thicker strands of glass. Sometimes when not saturated properly and damaged air/liquid can leak through the strands. Luckily you over saturated Posts: 395 | From: ANC | Registered: Aug 2002
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