posted
i thought $22 was expensive for a 6 foot piece, but after checking online it was like $39 plus shipping. i guess lowes has better prices then i thought. but the nuts where like $1 each. anyway a $35 investment and an hour of work was worth it to keep the flexing down...
-------------------- Infiniti J30 2 kicker solo x 12s 2 kicker 2500.1 @ 1 ohm wall, 7 cubes, 100 sq port 149.1 DB at 42hz. DiRtY SoUtH DEAF SqUaD Posts: 1361 | From: Columbia, SC | Registered: Jan 2003
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posted
why is that a bad spot? i have 3/4" mdf on the roof and a 3/4 inch mdf floor which extends to the b pillar, the face of the wall is actually 8-10 inches behind the pillar. sorry the picture didnt really show this. also the roof piece of mdf flexes a good bit due to the fact its right below the head liner and you know how everything on the roof likes to flex.
anyways whats a good way to keep the nuts from coming loose, i double nuted it thinking that would help the top one which is tight from coming loose, but the second nut sometimes comes loose just because its tighted on to the other nut. maybe some loc tight, or some type of thread glew?
-------------------- Infiniti J30 2 kicker solo x 12s 2 kicker 2500.1 @ 1 ohm wall, 7 cubes, 100 sq port 149.1 DB at 42hz. DiRtY SoUtH DEAF SqUaD Posts: 1361 | From: Columbia, SC | Registered: Jan 2003
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MK3XXX
unregistered
posted
Usually it goes...inside the box
I used liquid nails if i had some lyin around on the nuts, didnt move at all after that.
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posted
I bet some square steel would have been cheaper and done the same thing.
-------------------- Team Image Dynamics/Zapco/Werewolf/JK Lab Team Kinetik Sick Bastard Audio SQ Who feels it knows it Posts: 7866 | From: Charlotte,NC USA | Registered: May 1999
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posted
try some split lockwashers or upgrade to nylock nuts to keep those nuts from coming loose
-------------------- John Bennett Team Urban Audio 2000 Michigan Points Champ 2000 dB Drag World Finalist Retired Till I Hit The Lotto Posts: 641 | From: Lansing,Michigan,USA | Registered: Apr 2000
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posted
blue loctite will keep tight. i dont think vibration will crack it..plus you can still remove the nuts when the time arises
Posts: 12 | From: providence ri | Registered: Dec 2005
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posted
what do u all use to cut the threaded rods? i want to use some i heard it way better than 2x4 bracing. takes up much less space and alot stronger.
-------------------- (1)(Autotek MM 4000.1) (2) 18" RE SX's) (13.2 Cubes Tuned 32hz) (RE Audio FTMFW) (maxxsonics FTMFW) Posts: 1786 | From: Americus,Ga | Registered: Jan 2006
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posted
you can cut it with a jig saw with metal saw blade, but i did it the old fasionway with a hack saw by hand, it give me a good work out
its not really blocking the sub at all, i have not metered it sense i have done that plus totally sealed it off, but i dont think it interfears with the sound waves much at all. it sound the same to me. also the rods are about 3 inches in front of the sub and the port
-------------------- Infiniti J30 2 kicker solo x 12s 2 kicker 2500.1 @ 1 ohm wall, 7 cubes, 100 sq port 149.1 DB at 42hz. DiRtY SoUtH DEAF SqUaD Posts: 1361 | From: Columbia, SC | Registered: Jan 2003
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posted
Jesus, the markup on that stuff must be INSANE. I get it through my mothers job (fastner supplies) and it was CHEAP, like $4 for a 6 foot section, but then ago, that was 2 years ago, and the price of steel has gone up like everything else, but damn.
I used a rotozip with the cutoff wheel, cut the 3/4'' threaded rod in around 10 seconds
-------------------- Team Maxxsonics T3 Audio Posts: 6320 | From: Albany | Registered: May 2002
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