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to draw full power from your yellow top around 900 cranking amps for a few seconds, you would probably need 4 power and 4 ground 0 guage runs. if its more of a daily driving system 2 may work. also the 2150 may drain the yellow top when the car is off if it is recharging itself from a almost dead state. the batteries will try to even itself out when the car is off. having more power wires will allow you to start your car using power from rear battery even if the front is almost dead. so enough power and ground wires make a battery isolator useless yes
-------------------- Infiniti J30 2 kicker solo x 12s 2 kicker 2500.1 @ 1 ohm wall, 7 cubes, 100 sq port 149.1 DB at 42hz. DiRtY SoUtH DEAF SqUaD Posts: 1361 | From: Columbia, SC | Registered: Jan 2003
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it totally depend the length of run. i am adding a 2nd run to the comp car next week. we are running 2 2000ds strapped that put out around 6k rms. with a red under the hood and a yellow in the rear on a full burp only down .2volts front to rear with a single run of 0 gauge. the run is 15'...
Posts: 6086 | From: north rose,ny | Registered: Aug 2002
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posted
with the isolator id say its realy not needed.... BUT be sure to fuse everything! if your runnen two batteries then 3 fuses needed. one out from primary battery, 2nd into the secondary battery, and 3rd going out of the secondary battery. as long as everything is fused properly you should have no problems not using a isolator! isolators just one more thing to go bad and lower voltage ive heard. just put a voltage display in front and one in rear that will let ya know if thiers much voltage difference. with my 2500D runnen just about full tilt with just one run of 0gauge power wire and big 3 grounds thier was no voltage difference from off the radio off stock wires to the amplifier.