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Because I get at least 1 PM a week with people looking for my old build thread I will repost pics with a little info to go along. This build has been done for a little while now and turned out it is working. I'm sure that at some point the design got thrown out of wack because a lot of things that worked in this shouldn't have.
I built this useing off the self amps and subs(LOL D4's) that would be found in a common daily driver setup. The point of this was prove that a 159.9 bass racer....or any freaking loud class can be built with out top of the line gear that would break the bank.
Nothing I have done here is realy orginal or of my design. Well I'm sure that just about every person on this forum runs a design that has been built 20X's before they every though if it. There are many ways to change this....to be honest I realy don't under stand why this works but it just does. There are othes that know far more about 4th order band pass's than I ever will.....this is just what I came up with.
Not trying to run any one off with PMing me just so people can find it on there own.
I stared with the floor of a NW box that had been cut out. The wood floor was bolted and glassed in place and was just big enough to work for this.
I dont have pics but the 1st few boards were only put up to find out how much of a gap there was bewteen them and the roof. What you see in the 1st pic now has a layer of 2x6's behind it for added streanth.
The last layer of 2x6's was done like this to follow the curve of the roof. This would allow the 2x6's to fit tight. This was also just enough that a few layers of MDF would follow the curve.
Don't try and cut coners, this is a pic of what NOT to do. I had to tear the walls out and make it soild. 2x6's are NOT as strong as you would think that are and forget about trying to put end cuts in to make it work. There was 10-15 hours of time wasted. When it was done it wasn't worth a S**T....well by what I felt would be needed. I'm just lucky I tesed this before it was 2 late.
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After a 1 day set back I added a layer of 2x4's. 2x6's didn't follow the shape of the van that well. I was NOT trying to build this square or trying to change the shape of the van.
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I made sure to leave a place to mount my loading wall.
I reused what I could from my No Wall box,woods is after all just wood. Once this was in place I want happey with the port size. I competed all last year with the nick name MR. Port but I though this was just to much......and I didn't think that 4.5 inchs thick would cut it. I wanted to make sure I didn;t have problems getting my goal.
I decided to double the thicknes of these up just to make sure it didn;t flex....and I was worried about to much port.
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I was left with a nasty gap to fill in....I might have gone over board but hay I had come this far......
Yes that is self adheisive rolled floor under layment. I used it bewteen the 2x6/2x6's and all the mdf to reduce viberiations. The wood it self had what seemed like a harmonic tone to it.....the under layment got rid of that.
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I needed a way to mount my sealed chamber section so I built a very LARGE header at the rear of the van. I set this up so my subs would fit bewteen the wheel wells. That let me make some VERY thick walls.
I dont rember off hand but the rear header is like 7 inchs thick and came back about 10 inchs over my sealed chambers. I though I had better pics but I have changed computes since this was built and may have lost the good pics.
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I dont have ANY pics of the way I built my sealed chambers. All I can say is it looked like a book case. Each sub was in it's own chamber. I built the frame and then put it in the van. That was the only was I could build it strong enough for what I though it should be.Thanks to the over lap on the header mounting it in the van was easy. Also in some of the pics of the raw 2x6's/2x4's you noticed that I let the boads hand long. I planed ahead and left these to make mounting this a LOT easyer.
I have since added 2 more layers to the baffel, I had no clue how much pressure would be in this and I wanted to play it safe. My only regret was NOT counter sinking the subs flush. I realy dont know why I didn't but I'm sure being 10-20 dergres below freezeing in the middle of winter OUTSIDE didn't help my choice
Notice the way I was able to curve the MDF to the roof. I have no clue if that has helped or hurt me BUT it was there to add streanth to the van it self by following the shape and being ridged the whole way.
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The back wall of the sealed boxs was 3 layers thick of 3/4 MDF. I was sure it wouldnt flex but wanted to make sure it was tyed into the main chamber so I extened the top header and the side to come the the back of the sealed chambers.
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By this point a few months had gone by and I had cheap subs in the van playing into the 150's. I saw a problem with the winshield suport. I was playing 48hz at that time and was already having issue with the glass sealing and the roof skin up front.
I took the easy way out and fixed this.
Gives a rough idea what I did. This took a few trys to get the mouting right so that it would hold the winshield suport in place with out breaking windshield seal when the van body flexed. Sorry I dont have pics but that was prety close to the idea I went with. I added 1 more layer of MDF on the front of the loading wall to be able to create a lip for the 2x4 that ran from the loading wall to the glass. It gave me the abilty to preload the roof and it worked.
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From this point on I started trying diffrent things.
This was a good gain with the rounding.
Since then I have gone 2xs the size of the rounding inside the box and it was worth almost 3Db gain. I have no clue if even larger rounding would help I have not tryed that yet.
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At this point I was very close to my goal and have contuied to work on this. Some things I have found that are gains...some common sence some crazy.
Cover the hole is a good gain
Yes the van still has 2 front seat belts that both work.
Gm wanted WAYYY to much for this seal and after I blew the ruber out I did't have much choice.
Can't keep the speaker grills in the dash so said to hell with them.....and it gained. Putting speakers in the dash is pointless. The cones get shreaded in just 1 30 second run.
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Sporting 8 American Bass XFL 12's with D4 coils. These are a good daily driver sub.
If I ever get around to it I will take the other 2 channel amp out of my daily and put it back in the van. It cost my front stage a TON of sound.
And yes the door pods cost me some Db's. Guess what I still drive this to shows and the sound of a whining rear end and tar strips is more then I care to listen to. With both amps the speaks can almost keep with with the bass full tilt.....though the sound of the doors is not what it used to be.
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The passanger side door or a Astro van....what can I say. The door skin is easy to rip wide open and it cost you a few Db's..well it cost me. Even after welding the rip it managed to break the inner frame loose of the door shell. Given that the window no longer worked I saw no reason not to try and fix the door.
Thank heavens for deck screws. Yes I filled the door with 2x6's trying to save what was left of it. It put me back to where it was and that was good enough for me.
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I have tryed sealed chambers from 1 cube to 2 cubes(my max size). For some reason the larger they get the louder it got. I wish I had 3 cube chambes to see what would happen.
I have used polly fill in a few of the boxs to adjust the freq of the subs to match. Sure probly not the right way but it worked. Port side subs played 54hz and the loading wall subs played 42hz. Stuffed them with lots of trail and error to find a happy 41-43 hz range. I tryed all kinds of stuff and this thing just wont play high freq's and be loud. Not to say that it isn;t loud though.
I have not gotten around to shrinking the ported chamber...well lager rounding reduiced the volume some and gained Db's so I can't say what affect a smaller ported side would have.
I have 930Sq inchs of port with a loading wall thickness of 10 inchs. More port has not helped my numbners.....I'm starting to think shrinking my port would yeild a gain instead.
I have clamped 13K to burp 160.9, my rounding has gained SPL so I have no clue if my power has incressed from a change in impeadince rise.
As of right now I'm still only running 9 batterys. I have 16 total but have yet to add them and see what happens. I know by the end of a 30 sec run my volatge is down into the low 10's. I'm sure with out a voltage issue that this would play 161's+++ in bass race the way it sits. I loose almost 3Db in 30 seconds from lack of voltage.
I hope this helps some of the people that have been wanting info on my build. I just wanted to see if this realy can be done with out breaking the bank and it can be. I sat down the other night and figured out where I'm at in this. This cost about 20% more then my NW build did. That would burp 160 at 57hz for 6 seconds. I saved about $2500 on this build with what it would have cost for me to finsh my NW build to win....what I felt it would cost me to win. Sorry I wont say how much, but I was NOT given any kind of deal that other competitors cant get them selves.
I hope that others relize that this class is not just for the rich and that any person can do this with enough though and hard work. I'm not stoping on this build untill I am content I wonder how loud I can make this play ?
quote:Originally posted by murilo@soundigital.com.br: Pete, you tested before the roundings on top and bottom of the back of the wall? Gained on all roundings?
Yes I tested with and with out rounding on rear wall. I used 6 inch PCV on the rear wall(baffel) and it was a gain. I have since changed to 12 inch rounding every where BUT the back wall I ran out and have not gotten more to test this yet.
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Thank you so much for getting this back online Pete. Great write up and education for us all.
-------------------- HU: Sony Xplod MP80 Highs and Mids: Infinity Kappa series 63.5i Infinity Kappa series 572.5cf Subs: (3) Incriminator Audio DP 15's Amps: (2) Crunch GP3000D Pro's (1) Kicker 850.4 150's on the dash with most any music. Posts: 253 | From: Montgomery, AL | Registered: Jun 2005
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quote:Originally posted by Kim: Insteed of using resin in the box has anyone tried to use the type of plastic matts that you have on the walls and floors in a bathroom?
quote:Originally posted by Kim: Insteed of using resin in the box has anyone tried to use the type of plastic matts that you have on the walls and floors in a bathroom?
Does it work or is it a stupid idea?
I will be useing polyurathane, a soft grade thats easy to sand. Instead of useing bondo to finsh I have found that wood puty sticks to fiber glass and sands 10xs faster.
I still dont see any finshed product in my near furture........still looking for 3-4 more Db
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So I have been running on 8 batterys so far this year. I had planned on adding the rest of my batterys but have loaned than to a friend for the upcomming show so he dosnt have voltage problems. Well I need to make up the lack of power I was planning on sooooooooooo sure hope this helps as I probley wont have time to test these changes untill the 2x taylor show this week end.
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