posted
ok i went down to wal-mart and found resign and fiberglass mating (bondo brand). i want to make a truck style box for my infinity 12" perfect. i know i need to make a good structure with lots of bracing. what type of wood do y'all recommend? next would be what do i use to cover it so the resign will stick? and what is resign? what does it do? but exactly how do u lay the mating down? in stripes? and could i do one part then another or do i have to do the whole layer in one shiot? i plan on doing a few layers. then i will lay fiberglass down to build it up to 1/4" thick, will this be sufficent? and if theres any other tips u might wanna include, feel free to.
i know i could search all these topies seperatly but i wanna have all the vitals in one post to keep myself from going insane. thanx
-------------------- 1993 F-150 XLT 4x4 300 I6/E4OD Alpine CDA-7894 Pioneer 3 ways all around Alpine MRV-F400 for mids/highs Infinity Perfect 12.1 1.0V3 custom sealed box Rockford Fosgate Power 450S for sub Posts: 464 | From: Coal Region | Registered: Sep 2002
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posted
i would also like to make kick panels outta fiberglass. do u think it would be better if i made the kicks and made a box outta MDF to start with.
-------------------- 1993 F-150 XLT 4x4 300 I6/E4OD Alpine CDA-7894 Pioneer 3 ways all around Alpine MRV-F400 for mids/highs Infinity Perfect 12.1 1.0V3 custom sealed box Rockford Fosgate Power 450S for sub Posts: 464 | From: Coal Region | Registered: Sep 2002
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posted
i wanted specific answers, not a genreral answer. i really need to know if i a doing this right or not, i will start it next week most likely...
-------------------- 1993 F-150 XLT 4x4 300 I6/E4OD Alpine CDA-7894 Pioneer 3 ways all around Alpine MRV-F400 for mids/highs Infinity Perfect 12.1 1.0V3 custom sealed box Rockford Fosgate Power 450S for sub Posts: 464 | From: Coal Region | Registered: Sep 2002
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posted
well i will try to help answer a few of your questions.
first off though, there is so much excellent info to be found on this site and others to learn from. there is one in this forum title fiberglass anyone, by mabieta. excellent info, long but worth the read.
ok, to try and understand what you are doing better in your truck, i beleive you plan on building a box behind the seats of the vehicle, and want the bottom of the box to form to the trucks floor and back wall, rite? if this is the case there is some prep work that will need to be done first. you will want to build up a frame for all the sides and top of the box and any large flat areas that can be part of the frame. once you get this "frame" done and fitting snug to the contours of the walls and floor of the truck. doesn't have to be perfect but try for a 1/4" at the most. now is time for the pain in the ass part. masking off the area to be glassed. you want to get some decent quality masking tape to use for this, as it will save time down the road when it is time to remove the tape. lay the first layer of tape in a manner from bottom to top(like siding on a house) that way the resin cannot run down into the seams. you will want to do a few layers, and go side to side, that way you will not get resin anywhere you do not want it. ok now that the truck is masked and you have the frame work in place, it is time to glass. dont mix in to much hardner or it will set up to fast for you, as well, if you put in way to much, there is the possibilty of fire, since there is a lot of heat involved in the process of curing. there will be instructions for the mixing on the packaging though so dont worry. have your fiberglass matt, cut up into workable pieces, i usually use varying sizes depending on complexity of the design. 6" squares should be reasonable. use 1" bristle brushes for applying the resin to the matt. i pesonally like to quickly brush a small amount of resin over the area to be glassed to make the matt stick to the tape and ease of use. i always like to just get rite in there and use the dunk and wring method to quickly soak the matt, then lay it down and work the air out from under the layers. i always build up my layers as thick as possible to avoid the waiting game of the resin curing and waiting till you can add your next layer. make sure that you over lap the pieces and use the brush to "work" the fibers from the different pieces to "weave" them together. now that you have your glass down(a few layers)enough to make it strong to pull out of the vehicle. you can now either add a few more layers, if needed, or begin to finish the box. add your baffles and go from there. if you have any other questions , i will try to answer them for you.
so good luck with the box hope it all turns out for you. hopefully you will find that glassing, is much easier than it sounds like i did.
posted
thank u so much. i read that and many other posts and i learned so much but i needed an exact answer to know what to do. my idea was what u said, and now i know what to do. thanx again
-------------------- 1993 F-150 XLT 4x4 300 I6/E4OD Alpine CDA-7894 Pioneer 3 ways all around Alpine MRV-F400 for mids/highs Infinity Perfect 12.1 1.0V3 custom sealed box Rockford Fosgate Power 450S for sub Posts: 464 | From: Coal Region | Registered: Sep 2002
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posted
i really hate to say this but i have decided against a fiberglass box. i thanx all who posted, but i just dont want to dive into such a project. i will however make kickpanels when i get enough $$.
-------------------- 1993 F-150 XLT 4x4 300 I6/E4OD Alpine CDA-7894 Pioneer 3 ways all around Alpine MRV-F400 for mids/highs Infinity Perfect 12.1 1.0V3 custom sealed box Rockford Fosgate Power 450S for sub Posts: 464 | From: Coal Region | Registered: Sep 2002
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