posted
Ok well today i got buckets seats put in my 1986 F 150....and i was hoping there would be enough room in the middle to mount a 15..but there isnt. So about the only way i can think of right now to get it in is to cut a hole through the back of the cab...and have the box run into the bed...my question is how easy is this to do and can i do it myself?... thanks!
------------------ Bass for one, and BASS for All
Posts: 129 | From: Waynesbirg, Pa USA | Registered: Feb 2000
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posted
pretty darn easy if you have tools. If you have a good Sawzall, or an Air Nibbler, and a drill with a large drill bit, then that's all you really need. Mark the cab where you want to cut, using a black permanent marker, and then drill a hole in each corner (or at least one top and one bottom corner) and use your sawzall, or nibbler to cut along that line. Next cut the same hole in the bed wall, to match the cab hole, using the same method.
Good Luck.
------------------ Kevin Smith SS 1-2 teamROCS #010 - www.teamrocs.com
Posts: 1168 | From: Tucson, AZ, U.S.A. | Registered: Jun 2000
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posted
to seal the hole go to a truck assory store, ro a cap store, and buy the black accordian boot stuf, it will line the hole and make it water tight.
when you cut the hole, cut out the bed first cause the bed is like two inches higher then the cab, adn if you don't pay atention you will have a lot of trouble when it comes time to seal teh hole with the boot (TRUST ME)opps
and i also would recomend not cutting a perfect square, round teh corners some, it will also help the boot seal and keep rain out
------------------ i would get some expensive subs but my shockers are just too damn loud
posted
hhmmm...will this worsen my ride? any other tips u can give me? this weekend me and my friend are going to start to look at how to approach this!thansk for ur help!
------------------ Bass for one, and BASS for All
Posts: 129 | From: Waynesbirg, Pa USA | Registered: Feb 2000
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posted
also....how muc hlargter should i cut the whole to fit the ruber ot seal it with? sorry i have so many questions but i want ot do a really good job with this!
------------------ Bass for one, and BASS for All
Posts: 129 | From: Waynesbirg, Pa USA | Registered: Feb 2000
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posted
As ranger suggested, use Accordian boot, available from any shop that sells camper shells, etc., as well as some accessory shops. The boot is very flexible, and will allow your bed and cab to still flex/twist separately from each other, just like factory.
He has a good point about doing the bed wall first, if you aren't real good at measuring especially, because the cab IS lower than the bed (the bottom is about 4-5" lower in the cab). Also, as he suggested, round out the corners if you can, but it's not entirely necessary. The boot will seal just fine without doing that, if you put it on right.
Remember when you install the boot, to put the seam where the two ENDS of boot meet, at the very BOTTOM. I recommend leaving a little excess boot material on one end, just the center part of the boot, and overlap it with the other end, and silicone the two pieces together. This way water and dust, etc. cannot get into the truck through the boot.
As far as how much larger you need the hole for the boot, the boot will only add maybe 1/4" to the opening, but I recommend cutting the hole larger than the subs/ports (whichever is firing through the hole) by at least an inch all the way around.
Good Luck.
Oh, and wear safety glasses while cutting the bed/cab! heh
------------------ Kevin Smith SS 1-2 teamROCS #010 - www.teamrocs.com
Posts: 1168 | From: Tucson, AZ, U.S.A. | Registered: Jun 2000
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posted
Also i was wondering about the structural intergrity ... will if be affected ina large way? liek wnough to make thing sag or anything? also so far teh hoel we have come up with is really big! but i want the woofer just inside the cab.... tyhanks for all the help so far!
------------------ Bass for one, and BASS for All
Posts: 129 | From: Waynesbirg, Pa USA | Registered: Feb 2000
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posted
I cannot see the reason for anything over 24x12. I would split into 2 otherwise. I have only seen a structural problem once - and in that case they lined up 4 Stroker 15s side by side and cut out the WHOLE back wall. You could move the rear window by hand. Can we say WHOOPS!!! In a 454SS too....
------------------ Blow your mind - PORT your box!
posted
Ok i have one more question...how can i secure the box so taht it wont slide around? or liek if i stop HARD it wont move foward into the cab some more? I was thinking of jsut botling it to the bed? would this work...hhmmm...als one question about ports...as long as i have the recommened port area i could use as many ports as i wanted or would it be better to ahve one large port that covers the area needed? thanks flor all your help..hopefully i can get to workign on it as soon as i ge tun busy!
------------------ Bass for one, and BASS for All
Posts: 129 | From: Waynesbirg, Pa USA | Registered: Feb 2000
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posted
Most of the installs like this I have seen the enclosure that is in the bed of the truck is to large to physically fit through the boot into the cab. Depending on how you build the box there are many ways of holding it in place. Obviously you want something though.
Posts: 736 | From: Albertville MN USA | Registered: Mar 2000
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posted
To secure the box to the truck, drill a hole through the bottom of the box, and floor of the truck, and run some one way security bolts up through the holes, and use large washers and nuts on the inside to secure it in place. This way the box is secure, plus there is no way to unbolt it from underneath (security measures).
Or if you don't want to drill through the bottom, drill through the front of the box and wall, and fasten it there. (the floor is better though).
------------------ Kevin Smith SS 1-2 teamROCS #010 - www.teamrocs.com
[This message has been edited by teamROCS010 (edited 07-17-2000).]
Posts: 1168 | From: Tucson, AZ, U.S.A. | Registered: Jun 2000
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