posted
Experimentation is truly the best approach, but I don't think that it's necessary to use full sheets of cloth for each layer. Try using strips of cloth to get the entire ball covered, this should cause less wasted material and get the job done quicker.
posted
I'm taking the liberty of resurrecting this post, because i feel it's one of the most informative threads on the net.
I'm gonna thank everybody who's contributed so far, because i'm undertaking my first fiberglass project as we speak(a set or door pods with the bondo drying as i type) and this has been just about my one and only resource. Everyhting is going well so far, so i'll have to post a pic or two when they're done.
-------------------- 1995 Grand Am GT Nakamichi CD-45z Pair of Audiocontrol EQT's Audiocontrol 4XS Crossfire TEK100.2 Illusion Audio ND-6 Crossfire VR142 Image Dynamics CD1E V.2
Looking for the following: Image Dynamics IDMAX 12" Crossfire BMF1000d or VR1000d Posts: 48 | From: Buffalo | Registered: Oct 2002
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posted
WOw ... first time post here . first off i would like to thank everyonre for thier input and especially Michael Abeita for spending time and giving his pro. help . this post has the most and easy to understand info i have found anywhere . and i plan to start my project soon too . i have some questions that im not sure about .
1) If i decided to make a sub enclosure in the corner of the trunk can i make it entirly of fibreglass or do i need to use mdf to give it more strengh
2) i heard up to 7 layers , how thick would that be
3 ) on molding stock pieces , any trick on getting an exact fit to replace the stock one
4) on upside down location like the rear deck and trunk lid how would i go about keeping the fibreglass from falling ? ive read epoxy resin will work on side wall stuff but not sure about upsidown spots
5) after i make an initial mold with fibreglass say i wanted to use foam fill to shape door pods so i can get the shape that i want, should i fibreglass the whole piece with the foam or just make the top mold of the foam form and then fibreglass the 2 pieces together ? im not sure how to do this , can you remove the foam after you fibreglass the whole pod ? i want a more rounded look instead of the concave look
6) anyone have links to get all the stuff i need
Posts: 9 | From: NJ | Registered: Jan 2004
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1) In a sub box, you should definately use mdf or other wood for cross-bracing. This also gives you a form and a great amount of strenght. Even with thick fiberglass, it can still have a tendancy to flex in large areas that have no supports. Think of it like squeezing a coke can. Hard to do at top and bottom but easy at the center.
2) I'm not sure what exact thickness you would end up with. But I'm sure it would be somewhere around an inch, give or take a 1/4". Alot of it depends on how you lay the mat. If you do it all at once, it will be tighter, therefore not as thick but probably stronger, than if you let each layer cure.
3)Best way would be to make an accurate mold using a stock piece (best from a junk yard). If you aren't wanting 100% fiberglass, you could even use these stock junk-yard pieced as your base.
5)My suggestion would be to do exactly what you said, make the mold, then fiberglass the pieces together as a new layer. this will give you a base that you can leave, that is the shape you want, and still keep your strength.
6) Is answered on page 1 or 2 of this thread.
Posts: 2 | From: Oklahoma | Registered: Jan 2004
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posted
thanks for the answers , since this is the first time im working with fibreglass i figured id get my feet wet with the door pods , basicly im working with the front lower corner of the doors building out from the stock speaker locations , i want to put 2 JL componant syestems in each door . here is what i plan on doing
1- masking tape the door
2- aluminum foil over the door spray 3m adhesive to hold fleece
3- use fleece on where i want mold and apply polyester resin
4- let dry then remove from car
5- sand down and then apply 2 layers of fibreglass cloth and resin
6- make mounting rings for the mids and tweets
7- mount them on the mold i made with dowells at the angle i want the speakers to face
from here i have 2 ways of i would have to do things incase i dont like how the other looks
A) - i would cover the mold and speaker mounts with fleece to get outside shape . the problem i see with this is that i dont think it will look good with concave walls that the fleece will make .
or ...... B) - take mold with speaker mounts fill with foam filler then cut and sand to shape that i want , then apply fleece and resin to make initial top portion of pod . the problem with this is taking the foam out after i make the pod
8- apply 2 layers of fibrglass and reson on the pod , let dry
9- sand down and then apply bodyfiller and sand some more and more and more
like i said im stuck right now how im gonna handle the outside shape of the pods ill have to try the fleece shape first because i can just look at it and tell if i like it before i reson it . also i am wondering if the fleece and 2 layers of FB cloth will be enough thickness the estimated size of a pod will be about 1.5ft by 2ft it will slope off the door panel being thin on the top then getting as thick as 3.5 inches towards the bottom front of the door so the the bottom speaker points toward passenger seat.
also would i have to apply epoxy reson on the mounting ringe for the fibreglass to hold or will the regular polyester reson hold it good enough
please if you have any input on the way im doing this please post as i would like as much info before i start this project . i have all the stuff i need coming in this week . and i will also make a step by step pictorail of what im doing to help others ,like the ones posted by the users here and other forums . thanks to all who contributed to this awesome post
posted
im thinking of starting a small fibrejob first... so i'll start with my bike...
im pretty sure i can understand what i am supposed to do etc but lets say ive finished making the molding... how do hold it to place? im thinking of putting 2 pairs of mids on eachside of the bike...is this what im supposed to do? 1. mask where im gonna fibre, 2. layout mat and resin till desired layer 3. peel it out when completely dry 4. place mid rings 5. cover the other parts with fibre 6. sand
in sequential order
thanks
Posts: 8 | From: Malaysia | Registered: Feb 2005
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posted
hi i am new and am thinking of doing my first fiberglass project. i am going to make a sub enclosure behind my seats of my f-150 reg cab and the subs will angle and point twords the middle seat. these are the steps i have so far. 1)make most stuff out of MDF 2)stretch fleece or other cloth over to get shape 3)apply coat of resin? and from there i am lost on what to use. should i use matte or cloth i have read that cloth is easier to use with curves. can i apply the fiberglass to the outside of the box and shoudl i cut out the speaker holes before or after i fiberglass it. i am a very visual learner so i am trying to understand this but if anyone has some pics of the proccess that would be awsome
Hopefully somewhere in between steps 1 & 2 you've built some sort of mounting ring for your woofers, if so you're on the right track so far. Once you have stretched the fleece and thus determining the shape of your enclosure to be, you should probably stick with fiberglass cloth for each of the subsequent layers since it will lay on smooth. The holes for your woofers should be trimmed out as soon as the first coat of resin has cured, doing so at this time will be easier than later when the fiberglass is thicker and harder to work with.
posted
when i cut the speaker holes out do i just keep trimming the holes after each layer or lay fiberglass strips that boarder it or sould i trim the fleece and roll it to the inside the speaker cut outs
Posts: 2 | From: texas | Registered: Mar 2005
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posted
Just keep trimming the new layers of glass away after the resin sets. If the hole has been cut to the correct size then wrapping the fleece or any of the subsequent layers of fiberglass into the opening will cause the woofers to not fit properly.
posted
mabeita, can you explain the diferences between cloth and mat. i.e. how well they build up, when to use, etc.
and also can you explain the different types of polyester resins. i was shopping around online and got real confused between laminating, gelcoat, blah, blah, blah. are they pretty much the same or what?
Posts: 29 | From: Edmond, OK | Registered: Mar 2005
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posted
okay... two projects i wanna do... i've got a 98 S-10 standard cab with a bench seat... i'm gonna put in two bucket seats, and i think it'd look sweet to have a fiberglass console painted to match my interior (red)... i've NEVER had ANY experience w/ fiberglass whatsoever, but i have used bondo for body work if that helps... any very detailed instructions would be greatly appreciated... also i've got an MDF enclosure behind my seats w/ 2 10's in it... would i have to build a whole new enclosure to fiberglass it, or can i go right over the MDF? thanks guys
Posts: 17 | From: MA | Registered: Jan 2004
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posted
imma have to start ALL OVER again man.... i just realized that air pockets are BAD!!!!!!!!! i sanded the area and it a BLOODY hole was there lols.... damn... there goes my cash... ahaks....
Posts: 8 | From: Malaysia | Registered: Feb 2005
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posted
uhm.... just curious... is there a way of getting around the fricking itch of fibreglass?
Posts: 8 | From: Malaysia | Registered: Feb 2005
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posted
Dumb question but I just bought a bunch of fiberglassing materials including resin and found I've got a quart of the stuff from a few years ago.... so my question is does it have an expiry date? Obviously the tube of MEK (1/8 full) is hosed but is the resin ok to use?
Posts: 150 | From: W. Vancouver, BC, Canada | Registered: Aug 2002
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posted
tip for the itching, power your self with baby powder before you start, it will help enormously, when working with lots of fiberglass at a bodyshop i have learned tricks here and there hop this helps
-------------------- Got something big commin for suv 31-60 in 2007-2008 "TEAM TROUBLEMAKER" "TEAM SUNDOWN AUDIO" Posts: 104 | From: NC | Registered: Feb 2006
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quote:Originally posted by kvnatv: tip for the itching, power your self with baby powder before you start, it will help enormously, when working with lots of fiberglass at a bodyshop i have learned tricks here and there hop this helps
knows what hes talkin about Posts: 262 | From: here | Registered: Feb 2006
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quote:Originally posted by p_ferlow: Dumb question but I just bought a bunch of fiberglassing materials including resin and found I've got a quart of the stuff from a few years ago.... so my question is does it have an expiry date? Obviously the tube of MEK (1/8 full) is hosed but is the resin ok to use?
Your way past your shelf life. But if you really want to see mix it up real well and at some catalyst to it. If it rolls, it's decent. You could still have some issues with your catalyst to resin ratio at larger amounts..........oh wait you said a quart ........test a little and use it.
You probably shouldn't be able to shake it up if it sat for so long.
Posts: 395 | From: ANC | Registered: Aug 2002
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