posted
OK thanks I think I understand and know what i need to do, but i have another question. I read on another site, about someone using chicken wire to create the shape they desire. Does that work? Is it a good idea?
Posts: 4 | From: Spokane Wa | Registered: May 2003
| IP: Logged |
posted
I have also seen people use wire mesh to form a shape that they lay figerglass over. I am going to try this on my next set of door panels. I ordered one roll of each type of amaco wireform from dickblink.com:
posted
Layer it anyway that you can, whatever makes sense to you. In or out, makes no difference, but I'd pick whichever has easier access.
Chicken wire can help if you need a convex profile, (__)
Stretching material typically yields a concave profile )__(.
Anything that will help suspend the fiberglass mat or cloth while you apply resin will work, as long as your design calls for the resulting size and shape.
posted
Mike, what about the seams? should I just try and bend the mat around? This will be about a 165 degree, or 15 degree angle along some of the seams depending on how you look at it. I've had good luck so far getting the mat to make tight 90 degree angles once it's wet enough.
Posts: 63 | From: Chicago | Registered: Oct 2002
| IP: Logged |
posted
by cloth, do you mean fiberglass cloth, or t-shirt material? I'm just worried about strength to support the 12" sub this is for.
Posts: 63 | From: Chicago | Registered: Oct 2002
| IP: Logged |
posted
How thick does a spare tire subwoofer enclosure have to be? I am somewhere between 1/8" and 1/4" now and its getting pretty heavy, I didn't expect it to weigh that much.
I have heard 7 layers, but exactly how thick is that? I have lost count on how many layers I have put on. I do know that I have used around 1.5 gallons of resin for an enclosure that is less than 2 cu. ft.
Eric
-------------------- 1992 Mustang 5.0 notchback Featured in 5.0 Mustang magazine 5/01 1986 Merkur XR4Ti http://members.aol.com/whitelx Posts: 18 | From: So Cal | Registered: Dec 2001
| IP: Logged |
posted
dang that is way too much resin already! if you think that your project weighs too much, but doesnt have much structural integrity, you are probably experienceing a couple mistakes : puddling up too much resin, resulting in dead weight, and air bubbles between layers, causing a loss in strength. a gallon and a half is alot of resin. where in socal are you? in in costa mesa/irvine. maybe i can help.
see ya.
l.garcia
-------------------- http://users.codefusionis.com/~legarcia/ 82' el camino 85' chevy 350 small bock 2 memphis high power 10's 1000d memphis amp st300 memphis amp stinger 3 farad super capacitor 135 hiamp alternator boston acoustics 5.5 pro series components Posts: 208 | From: Irvine, CA | Registered: Jan 2003
| IP: Logged |
posted
I am in Upland, which is just north of Ontario. The first layer I did was using sweatshirt material and have been using chopped mat for the rest of it. I am not exactly sure how large the enclosure is, I calculated it about a year ago, but have since forgotten. I have been using a roller to get the air bubbles out. I think I have used roughly 35-40 sqft of chopped mat plus a layer of the sweatshirt material.
I am pretty confident I could stand on it without it breaking.
Eric
-------------------- 1992 Mustang 5.0 notchback Featured in 5.0 Mustang magazine 5/01 1986 Merkur XR4Ti http://members.aol.com/whitelx Posts: 18 | From: So Cal | Registered: Dec 2001
| IP: Logged |
posted
Hmmmmmmm ok so I started my 1st project and I notice a few things wrong already. The 1st and not so major one is my air bubbles, but i will be making a layer with MDF so thats not a problem.
On my 1st layer, I used WAYYY to much resin, and now that im on my 4th layer, im letting it dry so i can squeeze my MDF in there. However, its not drying up and its been about a day and a half. Is there any way to cure this up faster?
posted
air bubbles aren't really a problem unless they are huge...minor little ones don't trip off of you can't make it 100% perfect. you can either drill the hold and fill it up with resin or sand it down to take it out completely and layer some more
as for the glass not drying, there is not really much you can do other than wait (it will eventually dry) or add another few layers on top to cover...depending on how far you are i'd just toss it and chalk it under experience i've had that happen a few times
either the glass goes bad..it only has a shelf life of 6months - a year..depending. i've had glass go bad after a few months and glass last three years. if its bad, its worthless, no matter how much 'hardener' you use it won't work
what kind of resin and 'hardener'?
as far as too much resin compared to material, that can be a problem...yes it will come out smoother and easier to sand, but also brittle and not too sturdy...sand it down and add some material to both sides
how much is too much?
--------------------
quote:it would all be for nothing without my favorite cawk-smoker NAvi
posted
Mabeita, you should organize this thread into a FAQ on a website. It would be a whole lot easier to navigate. I can do it, if you're interested.
Posts: 33 | From: Seattle | Registered: Jun 2000
| IP: Logged |
posted
Hey, this would be my first post, and ive tried searching, but havent come to an answer. I am thinking of starting on a fiberglass/mdf subwoofer enclosure, for two 15" subs. I was thinking of 3.5" after displacement, ported to 28 hz. To get the right tune though, I need to be sure of the airspace in my enclosure. How do I go about measruing the space with all the surves and what not in the fiberglass?
Posts: 1 | From: Florida | Registered: Jun 2003
| IP: Logged |
posted
Hey everyone! My first post, too. My plan (dream more like it ) is to build a custom panel for my amp and audio control stuff in the trunk of my hatchback Saab. I think the best way to do this would be to make a mold of the trunk trim panel. The whole trunk is three pieces (the two sides and the floor), and the side piece I'd like to replace is very intricate. It extends from the nearly vertical plane that the rear seat lays against, to the inside of the rear end (in front of the access panel to the brake lights). It also comes up to cover the bottom of the rear 6X9's. It's about 4 feet long and 2 1/2 feet tall, and it goes about 8 inches deep. ( ) I hope my discription gives you some idea of how tricky this panel is. I'd like to have just one seamless panel that replaces the stock one, with the middle "bumped" out and flat to flush mount the electronics. But because of all the different angles, the replacement has to fit exactly. Has anyone made a mold of a piece this big before? I don't think I can find the piece in a junk yard, so I'll have to make a mold of the original, and then build up on the inside of that. Any suggestions?!?!? Oh, and has anyone made small 'glass pods for the top of thier dash? For some 4" and tweets... Thanks a lot! This thread rules!
Oh, and Psch91, I'd find a cardboard box with the exact volume you need (or make one) and fill it with packing peanuts or something small like that. Then, after your 'glass box is made as big as you can make it, put the same volume of peanuts into your box, and fill in the excess volume with something... like body filler, or spray foam, or something like that.
-------------------- '99 Saab 93 Work in progress! Rainbow Pro 3-ways Audio Control 4XS Audio Control ESP2 Audio Control Epicenter a/d/s PH15 PPI EQ31 1/3octave EQ PPI A300 OZ Audio 12" Posts: 10 | From: Ledyard, Ct | Registered: Jun 2003
| IP: Logged |
posted
Alright looks like its my turn to get some help. I am planning on building a mdf and fiberglass sub enclosure...fiberglassing of course for none other than looks. I am going to be fiberglassing the front of the box. I will be enclosing dual 12" type r's at .85 cuft each with a separate chamber for each. If you guys need the dimensions of the box to help me let me know. I guess in essence what I am asking for is a step by step guide on how to do what I want to do. Let me know how you guys can help me out.
Thanks, Ryan
Posts: 5 | From: you know...... | Registered: May 2003
| IP: Logged |
posted
Gotta question just filled in around my wall with xpandfoam what can i put over this to make it hard ....can it be glassed and how do i need to do it?Or can I spray the area with polyurthane give me hand got the finals this weekend ty u 4 any help... Bobby
-------------------- 2002 UNMOD.SPK 121"& UP WORLD CHAMPION. 2002 UNMOD.SPK 121"&UP WORLD RECORD HOLDER. 2003 UNMOD.SPK 31-60" WORLD CHAMPION 2003 UNMOD.SPK 31-60" WORLD RECORD HOLDER. 2003 UNMOD.SPK 31-60" STATE RECORD HOLDER Posts: 52 | From: Taylorsville,NC | Registered: Jul 2001
| IP: Logged |
posted
hey, ok i got a question, im about to finish my setup and was wondering if i could paint it myself. I know i can but what equipment would i need(please be kinda specifivc including spray gun brand)And how much would it cost for all of the equipment/what would the process be for painting it. Or is it not worth doing this and better just going to macco to get it painted...?
Posts: 1 | From: TX | Registered: Oct 2003
| IP: Logged |
quote:Originally posted by Psch91: Hey, this would be my first post, and ive tried searching, but havent come to an answer. I am thinking of starting on a fiberglass/mdf subwoofer enclosure, for two 15" subs. I was thinking of 3.5" after displacement, ported to 28 hz. To get the right tune though, I need to be sure of the airspace in my enclosure. How do I go about measruing the space with all the surves and what not in the fiberglass?
Easiest way would be go find a cardboard box that equals around 1 cu/ft, or even a half cube if you want little more accuracy. Then go buy a big bag of packing peanuts. Fill the box, and dump it in. theres 1 cubic foot, add another and so on, cont the number of boxes and youve got your airspace.
Posts: 25 | From: Tampa | Registered: Oct 2003
| IP: Logged |
quote:Originally posted by BrainBandAid: Hey everyone! My first post, too. My plan (dream more like it ) is to build a custom panel for my amp and audio control stuff in the trunk of my hatchback Saab. I think the best way to do this would be to make a mold of the trunk trim panel. The whole trunk is three pieces (the two sides and the floor), and the side piece I'd like to replace is very intricate. It extends from the nearly vertical plane that the rear seat lays against, to the inside of the rear end (in front of the access panel to the brake lights). It also comes up to cover the bottom of the rear 6X9's. It's about 4 feet long and 2 1/2 feet tall, and it goes about 8 inches deep. ( ) I hope my discription gives you some idea of how tricky this panel is. I'd like to have just one seamless panel that replaces the stock one, with the middle "bumped" out and flat to flush mount the electronics. But because of all the different angles, the replacement has to fit exactly. Has anyone made a mold of a piece this big before? I don't think I can find the piece in a junk yard, so I'll have to make a mold of the original, and then build up on the inside of that. Any suggestions?!?!? Oh, and has anyone made small 'glass pods for the top of thier dash? For some 4" and tweets... Thanks a lot! This thread rules!
What I would do, would be masking tape the entire panel and surrounding areas and make a mold of it. do a little reinforcement. Then take mdf or plywood or hardboard or whatever and make a flat area for your electronics thats level or recessed or however you want it (take and superglue dowels to the mold that way you cna make the panel sit however you want) then stretch fleece or mold fabric etc, over the area and the electronic rack, and resin that. add some reinforcement on the resined fleece and then you shoudl be able to figure out where to go from there.
I made a dash pod for some tweeters once, moulded them to fit into my defroster vents in my civic. I also molded my civic door panels.
Posts: 25 | From: Tampa | Registered: Oct 2003
| IP: Logged |
![[Smile]](smile.gif)
![[Cool]](cool.gif)
![[Big Grin]](biggrin.gif)
![[Roll Eyes]](rolleyes.gif)