posted
Spacemonkey, I was wondering if you could possibly email me about your pods, or replying here would be fine. I was wondering exactly how you went about the fiberglassing. I would like to do something very similar for some custom sub enclosures for my trunk. What is that black material you used to cover your framework? Also, did you put resin directly onto that material? Or did you put other fiberglass strips/cloth over top of it. Like I said, if you could email me with a quick how-to, that'd be great.
Thanks, Chris
chris02neonsxt@cbwebtech.com
Posts: 1 | From: Goshen, NY | Registered: Oct 2002
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posted
ok i know one thing about fiberglass. i need to see how it all is put together. im looking to do a center console for my 10in. L5 in my ranger. i already pulled the console to put my 600.1 there. i want to keep the 600.1 on the floor under the box/console. how do i go about all of this. PICS please. i also need a detailed list of things im gonna need to buy, how much of and where i can get all of it. im kinda out in the boonies spo the 4 easy stores i have are walmart VIP advanced and pep boys (no boat stores) im kinda really wanting to do this.
-------------------- 93 ford ranger STD CAB JBL 600.1 running an Elemental designs 10" A series in a .65 cu ft sealed box invert mounted between bucket seats pioneer 6300 HU alpine type R 6.5 components in modified doors. pioneer 2 channel amp for the components 50 sq ft of Second Skin : ) Posts: 373 | From: greenville NH | Registered: Oct 2002
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posted
If this thread is still active, I have a couple questions. Im planning on building a sub enclosure for my '02 FireHawk and will be giving this a go for the first time.
Is there some place local to get the fiberglass kits? Local hardware store perhaps, walmart?
Also, Ive used bondo a few times in the past and DAMN! that stuff is hard to work with (literally) is there an alternative?
Posts: 45 | From: Here and There | Registered: Oct 2002
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quote:Originally posted by BadAzzHawk: If this thread is still active, I have a couple questions. Im planning on building a sub enclosure for my '02 FireHawk and will be giving this a go for the first time.
Is there some place local to get the fiberglass kits? Local hardware store perhaps, walmart?
Also, Ive used bondo a few times in the past and DAMN! that stuff is hard to work with (literally) is there an alternative?
You can get fiberglass and filler from a local autobody supply store. You should be able to find one in you yellow pages or as a local shop where they buy from.
Maybe it's time to add some more info to this thing? Any ideas or questions that need answering?
Later, Mike
Oh yeah!
I'm busy making a spare tire well enclosure for a brahma 15.
Now, I have done 2 layers of mat, 1 layer of coremat 3mm, and 2 layers of FG on top.
I'm not ready yet - it feels rigid, but there's still little flex.
I tested it with water to see if it is water/air-tight, but I seem to have a lot of leaks...
How can I solve this - more layers - just pouring in some resin? I will at the ned put down some undercoating to dampen it, this should also lay an extra seal.
Other Q: how do you know your box is strong-thick enough? Smash it with a hammers and see what happens? Posts: 41 | From: Belgium | Registered: Oct 2001
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I'm busy making a spare tire well enclosure for a brahma 15.
Now, I have done 2 layers of mat, 1 layer of coremat 3mm, and 2 layers of FG on top.
I'm not ready yet - it feels rigid, but there's still little flex.
I tested it with water to see if it is water/air-tight, but I seem to have a lot of leaks...
How can I solve this - more layers - just pouring in some resin? I will at the ned put down some undercoating to dampen it, this should also lay an extra seal.
Other Q: how do you know your box is strong-thick enough? Smash it with a hammers and see what happens?
I'm guessing that the flex you're experiencing is in the floor span of your enclosure.
If this is the case then you might need to add a little more support by additional glass and braces encased in the subsequent layers.
Braces can be made of almost anything, hardwood strips, angle iron, and even rope. 3/8" to 1/2" diameter braided nylon rope, available at any hardware store, works well for this application.
Try laying several lengths of rope across the weak span, if you dip the lengths of rope in your prepared resin before laying in place they'll be thoroughly soaked.
Finish off the job with an additional coat or two of fiberglass cloth, that should pretty much take care of any unwanted flex. Another thing to remember, air bubbles are your enemy, do everything you can to get rid of them as soon as you see any form. The strength of your fiberglass depends on the balance between the glass fibers and the bonding agent (resin). Air in the mixture allows the fibers to give way to stress, when the fibers are properly encapsulated they resist stress to a higher degree.
Think I got addicted to that horrible fume - odour of the resin
when the sub box is finished, I'll start on my doorpanels and create a new tweeter location on the dash...
Posts: 41 | From: Belgium | Registered: Oct 2001
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Hello........I was linked to your thread from Club Grand Prix member and he asked me to read your thread on fiberglassing.
Great write-up BTW........
One thing that I've just been turned onto is a mixture called "slurry". It is the BEST thing I've EVER worked with.
All you do is make a batch of regular bondo with hardener then you add in a 40-50% mix of resin and catalyst. This turns into a pudding like state or if you put 50% resin, it turns into a paint like state. All you do is take a paint brush and paint your bondo on.
IT'S SOOOOOOOOO DAMN EASY. I'm working on a project for friend of mine, a small project, and I hate having to sand on bondo. Well with this "slurry" being painted on.....it's smooth....almost smooth enough where you don't have to sand at all.
I have some pics on my PC at home but, it's gonna be down for a couple days. Let me know if you'd like to see a couple pics of the project with dried "slurry" on the project.
Later
gm-kid
Posts: 2 | From: Blue Springs, MO | Registered: Mar 2003
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posted
gm-kid, they make that stuff readily available for sale in a can, it's called a surfacing primer (or high build polyester primer) and can be sprayed with a gun. There are several thicknesses/consistencies available. What could take 10-15 minutes to spread or brush on, only takes 30 seconds to spray on.
Another option is to simply thicken the fiberglass resin with cab-o-sil, talc, milled fibers or even glass microballoons.. does the same thing but you don't have to have bondo or other fillers onhand.
-------------------- Mike Pipes "High on resin and high on life" Posts: 431 | From: Lake Havasu, AZ | Registered: Jun 2000
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quote:Originally posted by ALFIrE: Think I got addicted to that horrible fume - odour of the resin
Ha ha. I think I am also. We make sure everything is well ventilated so it really isn't that bad. But the stuff is so fun to work with, the smell reminds me of good times.
-------------------- There is a shortage of perfect breasts in this world. It would be a pity to damage yours.
Sony ES CDXC-910 -- Sony XDP-4000X -- Adire Audio Koda components -- Adire Audio Brahma 10"-- Arc 1500dr -- Soundstream Reference 300 Posts: 191 | From: Lynnwood Washington | Registered: Jun 2002
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posted
I was wondering how I should glue my vinyl onto bondo? Im on the last stages of my kickpanels and Ive bondo the outside to get it semi smooth so I can start vinyling. I have some 3-M HD-90 spray adheisive left, would that work? How should I prepare the surface inorder to glue it? Thanks
Posts: 71 | From: Dallas | Registered: Feb 2002
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The last fiberglass sub enclosure I made turned out quite well, except for one problem. I used staples and eopxy resin to hold the glass onto the MDF baffle. After a month and a half the resin broke off the baffle. The resin wasn't wrapped over the baffle, it was all stapled to the rear of it as I only needed .8 cubes od space and I was filling in a crevice in a single Cap C/K Pickup...
How do you keep this from happening?
The Other enclosures I made I layed glass over the baffles so it was never an issue.
-------------------- Founder of Team "O.M.F.E" OUCH MY FREEKIN EARS! Posts: 36 | From: Montreal | Registered: Jan 2002
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posted
To keep the fiberglass panel from following the urge to separate from the MDF, you can try a couple of different methods.
The easiest way you already know, wrap as much of the baffle as you can before applying your resin. Getting more surface area involved in the bonding process between the two different materials is the key. Anything you can do increase the amount of surface contact between the resin and the MDF will add strength to the joint between the two.
Another thing that can be done is to firmly anchor your fiberglass to the enclosure using screws through the first layer or two of your glass. With proper planning you can allow enough of an opportunity to insert screws through the fiberglass into the previously assembled walls, or baffles, of your enclosure. I usually pre-drill the holes for my screws befor attaching the initial layer of fleece or speaker grillcloth, marking the position of the holes on the outer edge of the enclosure. After the form has been established and the first layer of fiberglass has been positioned the screws are installed to a depth that leaves the head of the screw exposed, but only enough so that when the subsequent layers of fiberglass are added the resin and glass can be worked into and around the head surrounding it and creating a solid anchor point. If this is done at regular intervals around the perimeter of the fiberglass panel, 3" is a good interval, you'll have a solid bond between the two materials.
posted
Mabetia, I have founs your threads to be very infornative! But right now I am stuck!!!!!!! I will be building a fiber glass box that will start from the inside of the right rear quarter panel of a 97 explorer and extend out to a total depth of 8 inches. I will be using a jl 10" woofer either a 10w6 or a 10w3. the amps that will powerthe system are jl 300/4 and 250/1 . The problem is where to mount the amps? Can I mount the amps to the outside of the box? My main concern is not to use up my trunk space. I am willing to make a glass amp rack . I am just looking for some ideas.
Posts: 8 | From: ny,ny | Registered: Mar 2003
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posted
Yes you can mount your amplifiers to your enclosure, you could also do some roof work, or maybe a seatback installation, or aahhgggh, the list goes on....
Simply put, your amps can go wherever you want, or need, them to go. Just take your time deciding what you want, and when you get that far ask again for some tips on how to go about it.
im from the UK so the products mentioned here arnt available to me
im making an enclosure behind my seats of my Honda Del Sol
this is the type of thing im doing
the back, sides and base is mdf and the front will be fiberglass
ok so i wanted to know what would be the steps needed to do this
mixture of resin + hardner - one layer on fleese then add Matting ( is this nessesery )
then meny layers of the mixture
then a couple of layers of body filler ?
is this right of have i missed somthing
also to produce curves or embossed type effect could you just put some rolled up fleece under the main fleece just to give you the effect or will it soak up the fibreglass ?
if so what matterial could i use to do the same thing ?
posted
You have pretty much got the construction process in the correct order, but there are some things that just kinda happen along the way.
Curves and special adornments such as embossed designs are two very different animals.
Curves can be both an attractive design element and an upholstery nightmare. In most of the designs that I produce using fiberglass the curved surfaces, and their complexity, are decided upon well before the initial layer of form material have been positioned. Typically the opening created by the edges of the enclosures rigid sides and the speakers mounting baffle combine to provide a set of surfaces that the forming material (fleece, speaker cloth, old t-shirt, and so on) connects together by being stretched across and between the two surfaces. Ultimately the suspended forming material is coated with resin to provide a rigid surface, or form, to which your strengthening layers of fiberglass composite can be applied. Since the resin soaks through the forming material, getting a specific curve to your project is a matter of good vizualization, and experimentation. Take your time in the planning stage, and during the initial placement of the baffle components. This is where your shape takes place, and where the amount of work required to realize your goal will be decided as well. It's better to get as close to the end shape as possible, right from the start, than to spend extra time and money building up multiple layers of glass, resin and assorted fillers to fill in an unwanted void in the contour of your enclosure.
Embossed design elements are usually created after the enclosure has been completed, just prior to adding the upholstery. There are several ways to add raised lettering or designs to your project. They include using any of the fllowing items, closed cell foam, chipboard, Dynamat, carpet, and even scrap vinyl, basically anything that you can get to sit still while you cover it with glue and vinyl. Imagination is key to getting what you want out of your efforts. Think it out, sketch it, experiment with your media, then roll the dice and see what happens. I try to get newbies started off small, building something like a small surface mounted door pod. Nothing importand, just something to get the processes into their heads. Then when they see what needs to take place, and what can go wrong, they can move up to more complex projects.
Anyway, good luck on your enclosure it's time for me to get to work.
posted
ok im not buildin a box out of fiberglass, but rather a cover type job to give it a more finished and professional look. i want it to form around the whole trunk. so do i just buy the cloth, form it, add the resin, and then touch it up? also what kinda cloth would i use? how thick should i make it (was thinkin 1/4")?
Posts: 567 | From: Lawrence, KS | Registered: Apr 2002
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