posted
I've done kicks using expanding foam to get the shape and then 'glassing over it. Seemed to work well for me, and for me I think it was quicker and easier than using filler. Like Mike said, different things work better for different people, but the Great Stuff worked well for me.
Thanks for all the time you've put into these, great threads.
-------------------- My old work in progress. Kickpanel instructions.
posted
I am wanting to cover my new abc box that I am building with fiberglass then paint and clear coat it to make a nice glossy finish. What is the best way to go about doing this? Should I just put the resin directly onto the MDF or should I cover the enclosure with cloth first and then cover with resin? Also, what are the best types of paints to use? Strength is not really an issue as it has no structual qualities, all the glass is doing is providing me a surface to be able to get a glossy finish out of. Can ya help me?
-------------------- -Pioneer DEH-P730 -DD9515 -2 MMATS D300hc's -All forms together for a pretty killer system in my 02 Dodge Dakota 150.7 Legal DB Drag 148.6 Legal N.S.P.L, WV state record holder Posts: 1196 | From: Pineville WV | Registered: Oct 2001
| IP: Logged |
posted
If that is all you want then forget the fiberglass. All you have to do is to sand the MDF real real good and then spray it with a sealer and then sand more. Then spay it with a primer that is a filler/sealer and sand more. It this point it can be treated like anything else you want to paint. Spray it and then clear it.and color sand it.
-------------------- SHAKEN THE HEARTLAND OF AMERICA
posted
My first post here, but I thought it would be helpful. Others have covered the text and technical aspects of this subject so well I cannot add anything, but I do have a complete step by step tutorial of how I built my kicks on my site. I have used some unique techniques to fabricate the kicks and I thought some of you might find them helpful, and if you have any further questions feel free to ask away! http://wes.nissanpower.com/photo.html
posted
Mabeita if you don't use polyester primer(spray bondo) what do you cover your whole part in bondo?
Posts: 137 | From: wilmington, DE | Registered: Mar 2002
| IP: Logged |
One thing I have found when it comes to body filler, is that every different kind seems to be quite a bit different. I know where I am at, there are many different auto supply stores, and most every one has a different brand filler. I highly recommend you go through and try all the different kinds, that is if you do enough of this kind of work. Personally I always buy the lightweight filler from Napa. It is the cheapest out of all the brands I have used, and it seems to be the best all around filler at the same time. This is of course dependent on what your using it for, but it has to have good consistancy and it needs to sand easy. This does both for me. One other thing I recommend that most people don't do... Sand BEFORE the filler is completely dry! I normaly lay a layer of filler down. Go over it a couple times with a heat gun. Right as it gets to the point where its "half hard" (point where you can still cut it with your finger nail) start sanding.... This takes a lot of time off of your sanding. You will go through a little more sand paper if your not good at estimating when to start sanding is the only downfall. Of course this only works when your doing the rough sanding at the start of the project.
There are also many practices that come into play when you want to do a really good job with the finish sanding of a project. The finish sanding of a project is probably one of the most important steps to make something look really nice. A few of the tricks I have learned are as follows.
First tip, always use sharp paper in these last few sanding steps. Click the conservative switch down a couple notchs.
Second tip, cover the project completely with a THIN layer of filler. Why you do this is simple. When you're sanding, you are trying to make something straight and/or seemless as possible. To do this you must sand one solid layer of the same material. For example, if you had a project made out of fiberglass, and you layered half of it with filler. When you're sanding on it, it will be near imposible to sand both sides equally. It doesn't really matter how good of a sander you are, the materials are a lot different when it comes to how they sand. This will make it really hard to hide the seam. If you want it really nice, you don't even want different layers of the filler to show since they hardened at different rates, etc.. So, if you are trying to make a peice as close to flawless as you can, you must make it so the whole area your sanding sands equal. To do this you must have the same material over the whole section. Of course your likely going to have to feather this into an edge somewhere. You just need to make sure that the area you feather it in will not be as critical, or make sure it's in a place you can hide. A good example would be if your sanding one large flat surface. You don't want the line where the bondo/fiberglass (or whatever material) meet being right down the center of the peice, but rather at a corner or edge of some sort.
Third tip, always try to sand in one direction. You do this because it keeps all the sand scratchs going one direction. This helps, because you can tell much more easily what sections need to be sanded and how much. The second part to this tip, when you do the next layer of sanding, sand at a 90degree angle to the last time. This allows you to see much easier where you have sanded, and where still needs more. It just makes the low spots stick out more (works even better when used with the next tip).
The last tip, buy one of the black powder pads. Not sure on the technical description/name on this. They look like a big makeup pad. You use it by putting a colored powder on the pad, then wipeing it over the project. What it does, is make it much easier to see what parts of the peice your working on are actually being sanded. So after you put the powder on, you sand lightly over the whole project. Any spots that are low will have colored powder remaining on them, since the paper won't sand it away. This product is very helpful when the peice is getting near completion since it gets hard to see/feel low spots. The only problem is this part is easy to cheat, but obviously that won't help. GO SLOW!
[ 03-20-2002: Message edited by: TGuY ]
Posts: 736 | From: Albertville MN USA | Registered: Mar 2000
| IP: Logged |
posted
I have found, if you want the surface flat, you must keep the sanding controled. I always try to sand straight but at an angle to how the block is faced. It is hard to keep the block under control if you try to work an orbital action into your stroke. That leads to one more thing. The use of a sanding block is a very good practice.
Your sanding method does change with whatever type of project your working on, more specifically the angles/curves involved. Creativity is a plus. Use whatever you can think up to help you sand. I try to keep a lot of different blocks/cylinders etc handy when I am sanding.
You did bring up another good tip. When you mix the hardner in with the filler. Make sure to use long hard strokes with whatever type of applicator your using to apply the filler. Doing this will avoid air bubbles. Also make sure to mix up the hardner in the tube before using it. It has resin etc in it, and it does seperate over time.
Pencil is another good idea. Same principle as the power I use. The one advantage I can see with powder, is that it covers the whole work surface. So you can see any low spots.
posted
I have a really helpful, time saving tip for those who work with fiberglass a lot. Try using UV resin. It is a little more expensive, but a huge time saver. We pay about $20 a gallon for it. It's nice because you just apply the resin and fiberglass, and you have plenty of time to work out all the bubbles. You can work without having to worry about it curing. Then when your done, you just take it outside to harden, or apply a UVB light. It takes about 5-10 minutes to cure, and you are on to the next step. Once you try it, you will love it.
Anyone know where to get UV body filler? This would also save time. It would be nice to work the shape perfectly, and then choose when to make it kick. It's annoying to have it start to ball on you right before your finished smoothing it out.
A couple more tips on sanding:
Use 40 grit paper to do your basic shaping. And then move to about 140 grit to get rid of the sand marks. This will save you a lot of time.
Use large strokes so that the piece is smooth. If you sand in small sections, you will find that your project will have small hills and valleys. You can't see them, but you can feel them. If you plan on painting, then they will show.
I hope this helps.
-------------------- There is a shortage of perfect breasts in this world. It would be a pity to damage yours.
Sony ES CDXC-910 -- Sony XDP-4000X -- Adire Audio Koda components -- Adire Audio Brahma 10"-- Arc 1500dr -- Soundstream Reference 300 Posts: 191 | From: Lynnwood Washington | Registered: Jun 2002
| IP: Logged |
posted
I have seen UV curing bondo at O'Riley's. I cannot remember the brand name, but I am sure if you find your local autobody supply place, you can get some there. or ask a body shop.
-------------------- Gabriel "The SPL Jester" Ramirez
Team Gates Kicker Car Stereo Eastern Audio SPL2K Powermaster Motorsports Posts: 3694 | From: San Antonio,TEXAS !!!! | Registered: Nov 1999
| IP: Logged |
posted
I am so Excited to start Fiberglassing my Trunk... I just got all my stuff from ShopManInc.Com today! I had a question though... I got the Premium Resin (Layup Resin) from them, Will I have to Sand this in-Between Layers or does this not have the wax previously mentioned? Thanks!!
posted
Getting the curves out of the cloth isn't tough. Just get yourself some decent cloth that stretchs and a staple gun. Your going to be in for mannnnny hours of sanding though with all those curves like that. Make sure to take your time and make it as nice as possible during the fiberglassing steps.
-------------------- 2005 Black VW Golf TDI Alpine/DEI/Image Dynamics/CDT Posts: 736 | From: Albertville MN USA | Registered: Mar 2000
| IP: Logged |
posted
I'm planning on doing a spare tire well enclosure with a fiberglass baffle with farely smooth curvature. I've been thinking about each step in doing this to make it as easy and problem free as possible. I will cover it in vinyl, but I still want to keep surface prep work to a minimum. I was thinking I could Epoxy the fleece with a 20 minute hardener, then take the shell out of the trunk and fiberglass the underside of it all at once with a 2 hour hardener so I don't have to deal with the amine carbonate issue if I go too slow. Damn, talk about a run-on sentence. Would there be any problems in doing it this way?
-------------------- "Anger makes dull men witty, but keeps them poor." Posts: 4 | From: Tucson, AZ | Registered: Sep 2002
| IP: Logged |
posted
This is the ultimate in forums. The information is precise and detailed. What more could you ask for?!
I've played with fiberglass before but nothing that can be seen. I am anxious to make something to display in my car. Which means back to the drawing board for designs.
Thanks to Mabeita and all others that posted! There is so much information here, I'll have to take time off work to read
Those of you just finding this forum -- we're lucky! It's all here. You just have to look a bit and you'll have all the info you need for a project and more!! Posts: 5 | From: Sunny Florida | Registered: Sep 2002
| IP: Logged |
posted
just wanted to say thanks for all the tips on glassing... Ive always thought it looked fairly simple, time consuming, but fairly easy.. after reading everyones responses, im finally going to try it.. i own an astro van, and im going to attempt to make a center console consisting of a 13" tv, dvd player, psone, a storage compartment, cupholders, and either 2 8's or 1 10. if the center console goes well, then im going to make some adjustments to the dash we'll see how it goes.