Feel free to ask as many questions as you need to get a clear picture of what I mean in your mind. The best way that I have found to teach someone how to do something is to address their concerns and respond to their questions, so with that in mind, once you've read the post ask away.

Remember, this is just to get things started, and is purposly vague, outlining the basic ideals and methods to designing and fabricating using fiberglass as the construction material.

Fiberglass Center Console

Steo One: Forming an Idea

• Draw a simple sketch of what you want to do, keep in mind that the plan will change as you progress.
• Use cardboard to copy the contours of the dash and any other features of the vehicle that you will want to incorporate as part of the design of your console.
• Test fit preliminary side panels and cross members as you assemble them, remember to keep the desired end result in mind as you position the components.
• Remember to allow for various fabrics and the transition from one to another, build in a break point and remember to reference other features in the vehicle.

Step Two: Getting the Form

• Cover your frame with a pliable fabric, define the form now, extra effort spent here determines
  the work required ahead.
• Resin & Glass, when applied smooth will require less sanding and produce a better product, take
  your time and trim off the excess as soon as it begins to cure.
• Apply body filler to smooth out the rough spots and troughs in the fiberglass, fluid transitions will
  make it easier to wrap with vinyl.

Step Three: Covering Your Masterpiece

• Find the bias and follow it, let the fabric do as much of the work as possible.
  
• Apply heat, well before you need it, warm vinyl before you begin it will be easier to find the bias.
• Start at the most difficult point, get this done while you have plenty of loose vinyl to work with.
• Indent openings, this will allow the vinyl to stretch into an opening with ease.
• Staple everywhere you want it to stay, once the vinyl is in position, keep it there.

Pictures that help to explain the process will be posted soon.

1.) How do you know how much hardner to use?

2.) How much is too much?

3.) What effects does the amount have on the finished product?

4.) What are the most comon types of resin and what is the difference? Epoxy? Polyester?

5.) What kind of resin is used with each type of matting (kevlar, carbon fiber, fiberglass, etc..).

6.) What are the most comon ways to apply resin? Tools used?

7.) Can you dye resin, if so with what?

8.) Can you thin resin? Styrene? Aecetone?

9.) What does resin stick to? Metal? Plastic? Skin?

10.) How should the area be prepped that is going to be glassed?

11.) What are the comon types of coatings for fiberglassed parts? Gelcoat? Polycore Enamel? Differences?

12.) How do you laminate parts?

13.) How to properly use a mold?

14.) How much ethonal should be comsumed after a completed project?

1.) Complete list of what supplies should be on the table before starting?

2.) Effects of weather? Temp? Humid?

3.) What if you don't have enough beer?

4.) Can you use wax paper or something simliar to create a nicer finish that requires less sanding etc?

5.) Big one. How many layers? I get asked all the time... How thick? How many layers? What kinda mat where? This for comon projects like sub enclosuers, kick panels etc..

6.) How much resin? Just wet the matting? soak it? Etc..

7.) Resin the surface first?

8.) Put cloth on right away after you put resin on?

9.) Layering... To sand or not to sand? Differences between resins?

10.) Best way to link a fiberglassed section to a wood section? Sub enclosure...

11.) Comon ways to mount things to fiberglassed projects?

12.) Special types of cloth other than standard mat/cloth?

13.) When to sand? Completely cured?

14.) Using heat gun? Downfalls?

15.) Layering before/after layers are cured?

2.) Comon materials used for mold?

3.) Ways to create compound curves without a mold?

4.) Tools used to trim/finish fiberglass?

5.) Type of cups to use to hold resin? **pictures cup mealting on work surface**

6.) Neat little tips like dyeing each layer of resin a different color so you can see the layers/where you have layed resin?

7.) Common supply places? www.fiberglasssupply.com etc..

8.) Kind of paints that can be used on fiberglass?

9.) Cleaning resin off shiz? How?

10.) How to cut cloth? Small strips? Large squares?

11.) How to protect area's you want to glass over to make mold of?

12.) Fiberglass hurt by water? gas? etc?

13.) What does resin taste like?

14.) If brushs are recommended. What size? What type?

2.) All resins use the same catlyst?

3.) Best way to measure how much hardner your putting in?

4.) Measuring cups nessasary? Guestimation?

5.) Comon ways to secure fiberglass panels to vechicle?

6.) How many deep breaths into a can of resin does it take to harm a cat?

7.) Spray on bondo?

quote:

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Originally posted by strawmyers:
What's with the different weights and thicknesses of the mat? And in that I mean when do you use a heavier mat and when is lighter better?

---

The particular mat or cloth that you choose will depend on the amount of strength that your particular project requires.

If your requirements are low, then the material that you use might be of lighter weight, basically speaking the more actual fibers ( glass strands) that your material consists of, the stronger the cured product will be.

The typical short strand or chopped fiber mat, is a good all around material for general purpose and light duty applications. Some applications might include door pods, kick panels, enclosures that do not have long spans between supporting braces. I generally use this when working behind the surface layer, like a filler to add strength by applying strips of mat to form braces and support ridges inside the project. If you're building something like and entire enclosure, or the front of an enclosure, then you would want to go with a heavier weight or specialty sewn glass material such as Knytex.

Take time to evaluate the strength needs of your particular project, you might not need a great deal of strength especially if the piece you're working on is a cosmetic trim panel.

quote:

---

And do you necessarily need to spend the money on mat in the first place or would any material (old t-shirts, etc) work just as well?

---

Thanks and God Bless,
Caleb Davidson

quote:

---

Originally posted by DigitalDwarf:
Can you give me a step by step on how to build kick panels, and be pretty detailed? I want some kicks, but have no clue on how to do it.

Thanks and God Bless,
Caleb Davidson

[ 10-31-2001: Message edited by: DigitalDwarf ]

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Kick panels are pretty simple, once you get some basic info.

Most people start out by making a relief casting of the area around the kick panel, once this has been done you'll have to add a baffel for the speaker along with a grill if you desire.

Once the relief has set you can trim it's edges to a suitable size, one that will accomodate the components that you're using but not be so big as to be in the way of your feet.

The baffle is the key to the outcome of the kick panels, if you spend a little extra time here, it'll really show in the end.

I'll start with some of the questions I get asked most often:

Someone has a lot of time to spare.

Q1.) How do you know how much hardner to use?

A: Follow the mixture ratio recommended by the manufacturer, this will offer the best cure sequence. It is possible to speed up the curing process by increasing the amount of catalyst, but this practice also improves the possibility of developing cracks in the surface, brought on by increased heat and surface tension during the curing process.

Try to use an accurate measuring device, such as a graduated beaker or a dispenser designed for this purpose, squeeze dispensers work the best as they allow easy, one handed, dispensing of exactly the amount needed.

Typically 1 quart of resin requires the addition of 10 cc (0.4 oz weight, not volume) of MEKP catalyst with a peroxide concentration of 1% peroxide. As the peroxide concentration increases so does the amount of catalyst.

Q2.) How much is too much?

A: This depends on the person doing the work and the intended use of the finished product. Some people say that I use too much catalyst because the working time is relatively short, but with my experience level and knowing what I require of the finished piece, the mixtures that I work with are fine, usually twice what the manufacturer recommends. This is not a practice that I endorse, nor do I recommend for the first time user of fiberglass, but as you experiment with various mixtures and techniques you will develop a system that works for you.

In any case, the presence of smoke is a sure sign that you've got too much catalyst in your mixture.

Q3.) What effects does the amount have on the finished product?

A: Again, surface cracks and weakened fibers due to excess heat build-up during the curing process.

Q4.) What are the most comon types of resin and what is the difference? Epoxy? Polyester?

A: Most common, see question.

A: Epoxy resin is better for applications that require a definite adhesion of the fiberglass to whatever the substructure might be, it also works well for fiberglass repairs and where your finish requires some flexibility and increased durability.

A: Polyester resins have increased impact resistance and are generally easier to work with. They are available in several different types, each of which have their own distinctive applications and charachteristics.

• Gel Coat
  
• Structural Lay-Up Resin
  
• Laminating Resin
  
• Surfacing Resin
  
• Isopthalic Flexible Resin
  

A: Kevlar and Carbon Fiber: Marine Vinyl-Esther Resin, Fiberglass: Epoxy Resins and Polyester Resins alike, which one depends on the intended application and type of glass that you are using.

Q6.) What are the most comon ways to apply resin? Tools used?

A: Brush, Roller, Spray Gun.

Q7.) Can you dye resin, if so with what?

A: Yes it is possible to dye resin by adding coloring agents intended for this purpose directly to the resin when you mix it.

Q8.) Can you thin resin? Styrene? Aecetone?

A: Thin resin, it seems as though it would be possible, but why? If you find that you need a thinner mixture of resin or one that is lower in viscosity you might just want to change the type of resin that you are using.

Q9.) What does resin stick to? Metal? Plastic? Skin?

A: Yes to all of the above, but it will not stick to plastics of high molecular weight such as Polypropeylene, Nylon and UHMW.

Q10.) How should the area be prepped that is going to be glassed?

A: It should be clean and free of dust, grease, and wax. If it is a smooth surface then it should be scuffed with a course grit sandpaper to provide a surface for the resin and glass mixture to establish a hold on.

Q11.) What are the comon types of coatings for fiberglassed parts? Gelcoat? Polycore Enamel? Differences?

A: Gelcoat, actually is not a coating since it is usually applied first during construction requiring a mold, therefore it would be termed a pre-construction surface layer. Polycore Enamel is normally applied after construction is complete, as a finish layer, requiring preparatory finish work and final surfacing.

Q12.) How do you laminate parts?

A: Clean the surface to be laminated, apply glass cloth or roving, and wet with resin.

Q13.) How to properly use a mold?

A: Once mold has been cleared of any foreign debris, spray with PVA and Gel Coat, follow with either chopped fiber mat or glass cloth until desired thickness is attained.

Q14.) How much ethonal should be comsumed after a completed project?

A: As much as you feel you can consume without affecting your performance the following day.

Q15.) Complete list of what supplies should be on the table before starting?

A: I usually cover the entire table with masking paper so that cleaning up the mess is as easy as possible. Then I like to have the following supplies assembled.

• Mixing can or bucket: for mixing the resin and catalyst in

• Stirring sticks or paddles: for mixing resin and catalyst

• Squeegee or Bondo spreader: for spreading resin around quickly

• Disposable brushes: for applying resin

• Rollers: for smoothing cloth and removing trapped air pockets

• Disposable rubber or vinyl gloves: to keep hands clean

• Trimming shears: to trim overhanging cloth or mat while curing

• Other trimming and shaping tools as well

• Sandpaper: for smoothing and surfacing between coats

• Resin, glass material of choice, and catalyst along with the appropriate dispensing device and parts of project to be fiberglassed.
  

A: Heat speeds up the curing process, while cold and humidity slow this process down.

Q17.) What if you don't have enough beer?

A: Now that's just bad planning, but in any event a youngster with a fake ID would come in handy at this point.

Q18.) Can you use wax paper or something simliar to create a nicer finish that requires less sanding etc?

A: I suppose you could, but some careful planning and application will keep the finish work to a minimum.

Q19.) Big one. How many layers? I get asked all the time... How thick? How many layers? What kinda mat where? This for comon projects like sub enclosuers, kick panels etc..

A: It depends entirely on the intended application, or as thick as it needs to be in order to withstand the placement and abuse that it will be subjected to.

Kick Panels: Two or three layers of cloth is more than enough, that along with a coat or two of some sound deadening material will work just fine.

Sub Enclosures: seven to ten layers of cloth is about right, fewer if you are using Knytex or other material that is thick to begin with.

Q20.) How much resin? Just wet the matting? soak it? Etc..

A: Resins usually cover the following amounts:

Glass Cloth: 40 sq. ft. per gallon

Glass Mat: 20 sq. ft. per gallon

Glass Roving: 15 sq. ft. per gallon

Use enough resin to wet the material but not so much that it sits in a pool of resin, the strength of your finished product comes from a balanced mixture of glass fibers and bonding resin.

Q21.) Resin the surface first?

A: Not necessary, usually you should firmly attach the fabric to the surfact to be laminated with masking tape or staples first. But in some cases it does help to position smaller pieces of cloth if you apply a thin coat of resin first.

Q22.) Put cloth on right away after you put resin on?

A: See above. If your application of cloth involves using strips, then by all means apply as many pieces as possible to complete the project in as few steps as possible.

Q23.) Layering... To sand or not to sand? Differences between resins?

A: If you use the proper type of resin (laminating) then you shouldn't have to sand between layers. But if you follow the common practice of using a surfacing resin throughout your project, then you will need to sand between layers to remove the wax coating that rises to the surface during the curing process.

Furthermore, it is best to apply as many layers as possible at the same time, this increases the amount of concentrated heat that aids in the cureing process decreasing the time which is necessary for the fiberglass to be useable.

Q24.) Best way to link a fiberglassed section to a wood section? Sub enclosure...

A: Epoxy Resin

Q25.) Comon ways to mount things to fiberglassed projects?

A: Build in a mounting surface; ring, strip, or plate, typically plywood, but can be as elaborate as metal plates that have been driled and tapped, or threaded wood insters installed in the wood surface.

Q26.) Special types of cloth other than standard mat/cloth?

A: Roving, Knytex, Baltek Mat, Kevlar, Carbon Fiber, Carbon/Kevlar Blends...

Q27.) When to sand? Completely cured?

A: Depends on the reason you're doing the sanding, if sanding between layers, don't wait. If it's finish work, wait until it is completely cured.

Q28.) Using heat gun? Downfalls?

A: Too much heat applied to just the surface creates an uneven cure and increases the surface tension, cracking can be a problem, as well as unexpected suprise shrinkage during application of additional layers.

Q29.) Layering before/after layers are cured?

A: If you need seven layers, and you have the skills top do so, put them all on at the same time. Multiple layers produce more heat while curing, heat that is beneficial to the curing process.

If you do not have the experience or intestinal fortitude to do thid, take it slow, there is no reason to rush things if you don't need to do so.

Q30.) Qualities of different cloths? Carbon fiber, Kevlar, Fiberglass?

A: Hard to say, each has it's own beneficial charachteristic that might be of importance to your project, research will help you to decide.

Q31.) Comon materials used for mold?

A: Latex and Silicone Rubber.

[Q32.) Ways to create compound curves without a mold?

A: Build-up layers of Fiberglass Mat, use glass content fillers to smooth transitions.

Q33.) Tools used to trim/finish fiberglass?

A: Shears, Razor Knives, Files, Graters, Sanders, Sand paper.

Q34.) Type of cups to use to hold resin? **pictures cup mealting on work surface**

A: Paper will do, but Polypropylene is best, the cured resin does not stick to the cup so it can be reused. Also for accurate mixing use a container that has graduated liquid measurements printed on the cup.

Q35.) Neat little tips like dyeing each layer of resin a different color so you can see the layers/where you have layed resin?

A: Yes neat, but why?

Q36.) Common supply places? www.fiberglasssupply.com etc..

A: Do a yellow pages search of Fiberglass Supplies, that will turn up something close to you. If you are a net-shopper you can also try www.tapplastics.com, then browse around their fiberglass section.

Q37.) Kind of paints that can be used on fiberglass?

A: Most resins will withstand exposure to both lacquers and enamels, but not to enamels that contain rust inhibiting agents.

Q38.) Cleaning resin off shiz? How?

A: Acetone or Replacetone.

Q39.) How to cut cloth? Small strips? Large squares?

A: Utility shears, those with ceramic cutting edges work the best without dulling, but a semi-serrated edge works as well.

Q40.) How to protect area's you want to glass over to make mold of?

A: Masking tape, folowed with a coating of mold release wax.

Q41.) Fiberglass hurt by water? gas? etc?

A: Surfacing resins are least affected by exposure liquids and chemicals, while structural and laminating resins have some suseptability to sustained exposure.

Q42.) What does resin taste like?

A: Don't know, but I'm guessing it doesn't taste too good.

Q43.) If brushs are recommended. What size? What type?

A: Depends entirely on the size and type of application, obviously you wouldn't want to be working on a five foot by four foot well using only a 3/4 inch brush.

As for type, cheaper is better, because when you're done you can just throw it away.

Q44.) fiberglass re-enforced bondo? anygood? use where?

A: Yes, great. Good for quick build-up and able to be shaped and sculpted while curing. Used in complex shaping like kickpanels, and door pods or panels.

Q45.) All resins use the same catlyst?

A: No.

Q46.) Best way to measure how much hardner your putting in?

A: Graduated squeeze bottle dispenser.

Q47.) Measuring cups nessasary? Guestimation?

A: Yes to some extent, usually while you are learning or getting to know the ins and outs of mixing resin.

Q48.) Comon ways to secure fiberglass panels to vechicle?

A: Integrated panel fasteners, grill fasteners, or screws from behind

Q49.) How many deep breaths into a can of resin does it take to harm a cat?

A: I've not done any research on the effects of resin on cats, dogs, or anything else for that matter, but I bet you can't get a cat's head into a can of resin without losing a little blood and some skin.

Q50.) Spray on bondo?

A: It is possible, if you add resin to the bondo, but I'm not fond of this practice I've yet to find an application where this would benefit me.

Trim panels in the trunk that fit perfectly to the rubber weather stripping that surrounds the trunk opening. Getting the contour and overall shape of the panels is no problem. I thought of just taping the entire area off and glassing the weather stripping area. Then use these pieces as a starting point after trimming for the rest of the panels. Just wondering what approach you would use for perfectly fitting trim panels.