posted
fiberglass should be used for anything requiring strength in the directions enclosures are subjected to. Use fiberglass for the structural portion. Then use a layer or two of CF for cosmetics over it. and of course use a clear resin (not acrylic) with the CF. give it a coat or two. Sand it like crazy. hit it with some clearcoat and polish.
-------------------- World Record-Loudest SPL in my driveway Team Powermaster/XS-Power Hifonics Amps, Kicker subs-The way it should be....all were Stolen from me...boo hoo Zensky....World Domination at It's Finest www.zensky.com Posts: 3735 | From: Columbus, OH - formerly FL | Registered: Oct 2003
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Say I lined the inside of my enclosure with cf and used it to create rolls in the corners. Think it would hold up?
Basically what I'm getting at is this. I want to do 6 18s or 6/8 15s in whatever SUV I get. I was thinking of doing a fiberglass baffle but kind of recess the woofers (I'll post pics in a sec) but was thinking instead of painting I could use cf. Im also going to do a plexi window on the front of the enclosure so I was thinking cf on the inside would be sweet
-------------------- Posts: 6896 | From: Russellville AL | Registered: Nov 2002
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posted
It's not going to be cheap, but I'm sure it'd look bass@ss if you did a good job with it.
-------------------- World Record-Loudest SPL in my driveway Team Powermaster/XS-Power Hifonics Amps, Kicker subs-The way it should be....all were Stolen from me...boo hoo Zensky....World Domination at It's Finest www.zensky.com Posts: 3735 | From: Columbus, OH - formerly FL | Registered: Oct 2003
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posted
Carbon fiber is for strength. It is stronger than fiberglass if done right. there are several types of carbon fiber, and how you lay it will also have an effect on its strength.
There is a select products DVD on using carbon fiber and the different types. You might want to get a copy.
posted
Generally when using cf you will want to make a piece first, then make a mold of it to use when forming the cf. I was at a shop that redid an entire Lotus Exige for sema. Crazy work up on it.
-------------------- Mike Schwitz Stay Tuned Audio 262-542-8863 Team MMATS Team Ultra Subs Team SRS Also an "Insider" 262-707-7570 (cell) Posts: 103 | From: Milwaukee, WI | Registered: Jul 2006
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I've done a few pieces in an old install with CF if you have anymore questions.
-------------------- Team Image Dynamics/Zapco/Werewolf/JK Lab Team Kinetik Sick Bastard Audio SQ Who feels it knows it Posts: 7866 | From: Charlotte,NC USA | Registered: May 1999
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posted
My buddy made a box out of carbon fiber and it resonated supper low, it sounded good, but I wouldnt recamend it for spl boxes. Mabye just a layer for looks. I find it a bit more difficult to roll, than glass.
-------------------- Mike and Mark Rip_Rock@shaw.ca
the way I did the 4 10s in the back of the truck, i was thinking of doing a box for either 6 18s or 9 15s.
Doing the subs up/port back, doing the baffle like I did the 4 10s, subs kind of recessed in.
But I was thinking of covering the baffle in CF, I'm also going to figure out whatever size port I need, and do it across the bottom with braces, in 1.5'' mdf.
Have a plexi window in the front, and was going to wrap the entire inside of the enclosure in CF also, would get rid of all corners etc.
But after looking at it and thinking it through, seems like I'd get a better result by just painting the baffle, and doing some kind of airbrush work on the boots of the subs, and just painting the inside of the enclosure a contrasting color.
I'm going to start whatever I do 3 weeks before SBN, should be a fun thrown together project.
-------------------- Posts: 6896 | From: Russellville AL | Registered: Nov 2002
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posted
I would still do the front baffel with a layer of carbon tho. Never seen it before, thats why. As long as the baffel doesnt have any tight cornors or too curvy ,then you should do a layer. A couple coats of resin on it and some pollish then it would be hotness.
-------------------- Mike and Mark Rip_Rock@shaw.ca
posted
yeah i'm going to panel the rest of it off in the back, and probobly cover it in ostritch.
But the cf on the baffle would the **** I think.
I just want to do something nice enough I don't ever have to change it ya know? lol
Does the baffle need to be totally smooth/finished before you lay the CF? Or can i be 80% finished when its laid? don't know if it has to be prepped to paint or what ya know?
I'll get some pics up when we start working on it
-------------------- Posts: 6896 | From: Russellville AL | Registered: Nov 2002
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posted
You should block it to get extreme high/low spots out...but you can stick with 24 or 36 grit the whole time.
You have to be really careful in laying the weave out to make sure it stays nice and straight..and keep it free from debris.
What I did was to lay down a layer of resin on the surface, then put the CF on top of the resined surface and start to press the fabric into the resin. You can use a brush (make sure you aren't leaving hairs in the resin), rollers, or a bondo card. Just be really careful as to not to get the fabric pulled too much in any one direction as it will show. Once I had the fabric down, I would do a thin/medium layer of resin on top of that. Doesn't have to be perfect since you will sand back down. Can use 60-80 grit there. Once you ge t it a tad more level, put a couple more coats of resin on it. Let dry and sand her smooth. It will take you 5-6 applications before you get the depth you want and the surface to be as smooth as you want.
When you are ready to finish the piece, I would start to come up through the sanding grits like you were painting a car. There are 2 ways you can go at this point if you have used the surfboard resin- you can buff the resin out like you do paint. Or you can paint the resin. Each has their own look to it, but painted is what most people do.
Sounds like it takes a long time? Damn right it does. When I did the door panel inserts for my Accord, I had about 5 hours of work per insert.
Oh yeah, and before you lay any resin or fabric down...paint the piece black so nothing shows through the holes in the fabric. Nothing fancy, just get the whole thing blacked out.
-------------------- Team Image Dynamics/Zapco/Werewolf/JK Lab Team Kinetik Sick Bastard Audio SQ Who feels it knows it Posts: 7866 | From: Charlotte,NC USA | Registered: May 1999
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quote:Originally posted by winslow: You should block it to get extreme high/low spots out...but you can stick with 24 or 36 grit the whole time.
You have to be really careful in laying the weave out to make sure it stays nice and straight..and keep it free from debris.
What I did was to lay down a layer of resin on the surface, then put the CF on top of the resined surface and start to press the fabric into the resin. You can use a brush (make sure you aren't leaving hairs in the resin), rollers, or a bondo card. Just be really careful as to not to get the fabric pulled too much in any one direction as it will show. Once I had the fabric down, I would do a thin/medium layer of resin on top of that. Doesn't have to be perfect since you will sand back down. Can use 60-80 grit there. Once you ge t it a tad more level, put a couple more coats of resin on it. Let dry and sand her smooth. It will take you 5-6 applications before you get the depth you want and the surface to be as smooth as you want.
When you are ready to finish the piece, I would start to come up through the sanding grits like you were painting a car. There are 2 ways you can go at this point if you have used the surfboard resin- you can buff the resin out like you do paint. Or you can paint the resin. Each has their own look to it, but painted is what most people do.
Sounds like it takes a long time? Damn right it does. When I did the door panel inserts for my Accord, I had about 5 hours of work per insert.
Oh yeah, and before you lay any resin or fabric down...paint the piece black so nothing shows through the holes in the fabric. Nothing fancy, just get the whole thing blacked out.
gotcha, how does this stuff work in compound curves? not like a deep bowl sheep but a 1=2'' concave, shouldn't be a big deal for it to curve just a little bit right?
And I figured it would take awhile, I don't mind doing the work as long as it turns out into a nice finished product
And I really appreciate the help, I think real cf on top of a complex enclosure would be very unique and have a GORGEOUS look to it if it turns out like i want it to.
What is the biggest sheet of CF you can get? Thats the other thing I'm worried about is having to try to piece 2 pieeces together, the biggest pieces I've seen are 50'' x whatever length.
-------------------- Posts: 6896 | From: Russellville AL | Registered: Nov 2002
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posted
If you get the twill weave it will lay down really well on something like that. Jason Berraca who goes by the name Slick on the forums did the doghouse of an H1 with the twill CF. It went, and that is a complex shape.
50 is the widest that I've seen it since the shortage. You could probably make a nice seam directly with the fabrics- it would be hard but could be done. Or you could break up the seam with a piece of vinyl trim, or some other trim.
-------------------- Team Image Dynamics/Zapco/Werewolf/JK Lab Team Kinetik Sick Bastard Audio SQ Who feels it knows it Posts: 7866 | From: Charlotte,NC USA | Registered: May 1999
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