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So i have an install comming up and the kid wants fiberglass door panels. I have painted plastic before and vinyled over it but i have never had success in getting fiberglass to stick/adhear to plastic. I have tried drilling holes so the glass would soak through sanding the hell outta it so it was rough and other things anyone have any tips?
posted
When you drill the holes, put some mat on the back side and the front side. The fiberglass binds to itself through the holes. If the plastic is thick, push some of the fiberglass mat through the holes.
posted
I've used a similar product to 4040. It is very good for bonding to plastic, but you would need to do the entire panel, and not just the edges. Doing just the edges would give you a bond there, but nothing in middle.
By the time you did an entire door in 4040 you will have spent a lot of money.
posted
don't skimp on the resin. some material like fleece takes a lot to seep through...ends up fuzzy on the bottom after it's dried if you don't put enough to soak it. try soaking the mat/fleece/(whatever) for a good 10 seconds before laying it to the plastic.
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Iv going to do the same thing, but to the whole interior of my mustang and Iv found out from talking to a lot of people is that your better off puting a layer of bondo over the plastic and sanding or sculpting the shape out of that then painting since fiberglass is such a pain to adhere to plastic.
-------------------- 1995 Ford Mustang GT Alpine w-200 Xtant 1001dx/six Rockford P2 8's Xtant 604x/Boston Acoustics Z6 Xtant 404m/Boston Acoustics SL95 2 Optima Yellow Tops 240 amp Iraggi Alternator 1/0 ga wire Big Three Posts: 114 | From: Miami, Fl | Registered: Dec 2005
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posted
Bondo doesn't adhere to plastic either. Look at the bondo spreaders--they are plastic. After it dries, you flex it, and the bondo will pop right off. Same thing will happen with interior panels.
what kind of resin are you using here? the tan color waxy kind of surfacing resin or the green stuff? the green resin is a little harder to find but MUCH better for my applications IMO. [didn't like the other kind]. Never had problems with the green stuff.
Try using grillcloth and wrapping it around the panel n' attaching it with a few staples on the backside?
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quote:it would all be for nothing without my favorite cawk-smoker NAvi
posted
I have heard of people just building up several layers of primer over the plastic and then wet sanding the whole door. Im not really sure what to think about this idea though.
Posts: 1025 | From: Ohio | Registered: Sep 2005
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posted
just keep in mind that if resin and body filler won't stick to the plastic, other things won't either. you can use a high build primer and sand it smooth but the proper steps still need to be taken. also, that method is only usefull if you are wanting to smooth the panels and not alter them.
Posts: 93 | From: Muskegon MI | Registered: May 2000
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posted
Resins come in many different colors, so lookin for one over the other will do no good.
Andy's idea with drillin holes is probably the best way to go. That or cut hole like strips in the panel and lay your glass on both sides. But build on one. Epoxy is going to be one of the best for adhering to things. Do make sure you scuff the hell out of the surface no matter what.
If you do decide to use a bondo be sure to cover it with a layer or 2 of glass mat or whatever. This will ensure against cracks later.
Posts: 395 | From: ANC | Registered: Aug 2002
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posted
why not take off the panels, and do a flat wood piece to fit the door, and build off that completely? its harder, but imo, the right way to do it. might wanna look on alpines site to see what they did. another idea is to glass in some plastic clips like other panels in the car have, and use them.
Posts: 385 | From: Hattiesburg Mississippi | Registered: Jan 2006
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i mix the resin, with other kind that is use to make key chains. i put a 10 porcent of this and i get a flexible lyer. i will ask for the chemical name. so i sand the plastic with 36 and then i put this resin lyer and then do the ordinary work with glass. i hope to be explicit, sorry for my english.
Posts: 56 | From: MEXICO | Registered: Jun 2003
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it maybe that one...water clear resin... we do not hat that beuty presentation. i buy my resin in a big factory, where i can ask to the engeniers.
Posts: 56 | From: MEXICO | Registered: Jun 2003
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posted
fusor makes a bonding agent for paint to adhere to plastic, i use it, let it cure and then resign, sand, and then apply the glazz. hasnt let me down yet. make sure that you scarify the surface to be treated with a heavy grit 50-80 sand paper first. good luck!
-------------------- 12 VOLTS BABY!!!!! TEAM STETSOM USA & SALES REP TEAM STINGER BUY OHIO GENERATORS WORLD FINALS COMPETITOR 2005,2006,2008,2009 SUPER STREET 1-2 CERTIFIED 161.0 DB MARYLANDS LOUDEST DAILY DRIVER N.S.P.L. STATE RECORD HOLDER 2005,2006,2007,2008,2009 TEAM USAudio Stetsom Sales and Service stetsomrep1@hotmail.com Posts: 2226 | From: Maryland | Registered: Oct 2005
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quote:Originally posted by Enticiv1: Resins come in many different colors, so lookin for one over the other will do no good.
wtf...different resins for different applications....
so what ever happened to "use the right tool for the right job"
Thanks for the PM
Still doesn't change anything
If you had stated that you were referin to a label. I wouldn't have felt the need to correct you
Yes different resins, different jobs.
If I wanted to be an arse, I'd point out that most of your containers there are still Poly, just wit different additives. Surfacing agent and such. Then you have Vinyl and some surfboard resin.........
All and all congradulations on being right about the green "LABEL"
quote:Originally posted by deaf tones: word, andy.
what kind of resin are you using here? the tan color waxy kind of surfacing resin or the green stuff? the green resin is a little harder to find but MUCH better for my applications IMO. [didn't like the other kind]. Never had problems with the green stuff.
Try using grillcloth and wrapping it around the panel n' attaching it with a few staples on the backside?
I see no reality twisting.
Now you keep it up wit that attitude of your's......Wut would 2 cheeks be without a personality
Posts: 395 | From: ANC | Registered: Aug 2002
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posted
You can go to any auto paint supply store and get plastic bumper repair. It is like 2 part epoxy that is made to adhere to plastic and sand like bondo. To prep the panel I use 36-50 grit on a da sander to scuff the panel and prep solvent to clean it then smear it on nice and thick, then sand it with 80 grit and you are ready for the resin or bondo. Good luck and if you have any questions hit me up.
-------------------- Ronal Murphy Pres. Team Louder T-3 Audio Engineer Posts: 128 | From: 1 T-3 audio way | Registered: Aug 2001
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quote:Originally posted by Murphy: You can go to any auto paint supply store and get plastic bumper repair. It is like 2 part epoxy that is made to adhere to plastic and sand like bondo. To prep the panel I use 36-50 grit on a da sander to scuff the panel and prep solvent to clean it then smear it on nice and thick, then sand it with 80 grit and you are ready for the resin or bondo. Good luck and if you have any questions hit me up.
which one do you use? 3M™ Automix™ EZ Sand Flexible Parts Repair(3M says "This product should NOT be used with SMC/fiberglass") 3M™ Automix™ EZ Sand Rigid Parts Repair(but this one can, I know this sort of answers my own question but sometimes you do alot of things you not supposed to do)