So far I've stretched the fleece and soaked it in resin. What should I do next?
Here's what I used to do: After I soak it in resin, I would then apply body filler all over it and that usually takes TONS of sanding and this time I'm trying to avoid all that work.
How could I make it look like this?
Thanks
-------------------- Alpine XTANT Focal Image Dynamics AudioControl Posts: 1624 | From: Los Angeles | Registered: Jan 2001
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You need to take a rough grit sandpaper like 24 or 36 grit to it by hand just to take the shine off and knock the high spots down, Unless you have a right angle die grinder then you can use it with a roloc disc. If you apply the filler by hand you need a "cheese grater" to shape it before it completey sets up this will save hours of sanding, but don't start to early with it. If you want to avoid that altogether just make a milk shake....... make a mixture of 1/2 Resin and 1/2 body filler then mix in the MEKP as if it were all resin. This part will get kinda messy, you should probably tape of the opening to keep the mess on the outside, but make sure you remove the tape before the mixture completey sets up. This method will give you much smoother results than applying the filler by hand. After that I start with 80 grit on a flexible foam sanding pad, then go to 180, then 220, then maybe even 400 but If you use a high build primer 220 should be fine. After you get the primer down, apply some form of guide coat before you begin wet sanding with 220 on the flexible foam pad (i.e. spray on, powder, or a mist of black spray paint)this will show you where all the high and low spots are, once all your guide coat is gone you should be ready for paint. Just don't stay in one spot too long while your sanding, and try to work at 45 deg. angles (it helps prevent low spots). Hope this helps.
Posts: 13 | From: Ramsey, IL | Registered: Aug 2005
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quote:Originally posted by Chop n' Drop Shop: You need to take a rough grit sandpaper like 24 or 36 grit to it by hand just to take the shine off and knock the high spots down, Unless you have a right angle die grinder then you can use it with a roloc disc. If you apply the filler by hand you need a "cheese grater" to shape it before it completey sets up this will save hours of sanding, but don't start to early with it. If you want to avoid that altogether just make a milk shake....... make a mixture of 1/2 Resin and 1/2 body filler then mix in the MEKP as if it were all resin. This part will get kinda messy, you should probably tape of the opening to keep the mess on the outside, but make sure you remove the tape before the mixture completey sets up. This method will give you much smoother results than applying the filler by hand. After that I start with 80 grit on a flexible foam sanding pad, then go to 180, then 220, then maybe even 400 but If you use a high build primer 220 should be fine. After you get the primer down, apply some form of guide coat before you begin wet sanding with 220 on the flexible foam pad (i.e. spray on, powder, or a mist of black spray paint)this will show you where all the high and low spots are, once all your guide coat is gone you should be ready for paint. Just don't stay in one spot too long while your sanding, and try to work at 45 deg. angles (it helps prevent low spots). Hope this helps.
This is great advice espeacially the foam pad to sand with because your fingers will dig ruts if your not experienced in the sanding technics it takes to pull this off!!! I would use the high build primer because it is easilly sanded back down!
This guy gives good advice!!!!
-------------------- AUDIO X TEAM KINETIK TEAM MAXXSONICS TEAM OHIO GENERATOR T3 AUDIO TEAM BUDWIESER Posts: 3655 | From: Florence, al | Registered: Oct 1999
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posted
Thanks Trendsetter, also on your next project you might want to take a router to your outside edge with a Rabbiting cutter so your staples are countersunk, that way you can fill right over them no problem.
Posts: 13 | From: Ramsey, IL | Registered: Aug 2005
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WOW guys thanks a lot for your replies! Chop n Drop those are good pointers! I went ahead and used 80 grit to shave the resin down. I also used the foam pad and it was like 5x easier!
The only thing that I was reluctant about was the milkshake thing.. I wanted to try it but I was in a hurry so I'll just try it on the next project.
So I sanded it down until I could only see small craters and that's when I used lightweight filler and sanded it with the foam pad. I primered it and then proceeded to wet sand with 400 grit:
After that I painted it blue.. same as my car I was actually amazed at how EASY the whole process went
I only have a $3.00 paint spray but I never expected it to turn out this good!!
Ok now that I painted it, is there anything I need to apply on top of it, like a glaze? I have BAD experience with clear coats because I used one before and it totally "orange-peeled" my paintjob
thanks
-------------------- Alpine XTANT Focal Image Dynamics AudioControl Posts: 1624 | From: Los Angeles | Registered: Jan 2001
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posted
That depends, if your paint is a single stage your done. If it's a dual stage you'll need to clear it. and since the "flash stage" of the paint is long gone, make sure you scuff the surface with a scotch brite pad, prior to clearing it. (be sure to use a good surface cleaner after this, and then follow with a tack rag right before you begin spraying the clear) As for you orange-peel dilemma, try using more air pressure and quick light coats. The recommended application bull on the container isn't always the best way, it all depends on temp./humidity. Also don't worry too much about putting runs in it, they'll sand out easy enough and then once you get them out it can be buffed back to a show quality shine no problem!I think that's about it now I gotta go build some enclosures too! Later.
Posts: 13 | From: Ramsey, IL | Registered: Aug 2005
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