posted
Initial testing with some entry level 600-watt woofers (Sundown SA-12):
The Box and Setup :
The Results :
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On Friday I clamped 4800 watts and put up 153.5 dB at my shop (I am not using the two 3500s full potential)... played music all night and on the way to the shows Saturday.
Did not change any amp or HU settings and jumped to 154.7 dB - presumably since they were brand new early Friday and had quite a bit of break-in time by the time I got the the show.
New build looks promising... still peaking down at 47 Hz just like my dual 15" box, though! Seems like any box that is very wide drops tuning dramatically from loading off the hatch. Calculated box tuning is 44 Hz on this enclosure.
But... so far so good... now to try four Nightshades in there on four 3500s and I might have something
-------------------- - Jacob Fuller Posts: 990 | From: Mooresville, NC | Registered: Oct 2001
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posted
i was thinking more of finding actual tuning for adjusting volumes
Posts: 5494 | From: Columbus, OH - formerly FL | Registered: Oct 2003
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posted
This is also a very musical setup. Jacob did several demos over the weekend.
D-Bass, Jacob's Jeep peaks around 53 hz in previous testing
-------------------- Team Outcast Team DB UNIT "Carolina Chapter" 1990 Honda CRX 2009 Iasca SBN Stock Pro 1 Champion 1989 Honda Civic Hatchback 2008 Iasca Adv. No Wall 1 North American Champion 2007 Db Drag 1st SM 3-4 and 4th Bass Race Florida Regionals 2007 2nd overall in US points and 9th overall in World 2007 Competion Only Pro and Hardcore Points Champion 2007 Meca M5 Points Champion and South Carolina Champion 2007 NSPL NW Points Champion 2007 NSPL Pro Points Champion 2006 NSPL Pro Points Champion
posted
i think you should try the same box but single layer mdf without the rod bracing. Box flex will give you less imp rise. Usually louder.
-------------------- Dustin Page 97 explorer (TOTALLED) 155.8 Team Deaftraps
81 malibu wagon 160+ bassracer--debuting spring 2010
DO NOT DO BUSINESS WITH H&K KENT. HE RIPPED ME OFF FOR OVER $2000. STAY AWAY! Posts: 1123 | From: abbotsford, bc, canada | Registered: Oct 2005
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quote:Originally posted by Wagonized: i think you should try the same box but single layer mdf without the rod bracing. Box flex will give you less imp rise. Usually louder.
I don't agree with that at all. I've personally tested braced and unbraced and my boxes have made more power with bracing instead of unbraced. I just recently added some threaded rod to my daily box and gained almost 200 total watts and .12 less ohms of impedence.
-------------------- TEAM SUNDOWN AUDIO 2009 NSPL Car 1801-3600 Watt Record Holder: 151.2db 2009 NSPL Car 3601-Up Watt Record Holder: 152.6db 2009 NSPL Car Hardcore Record Holder: 155.2db 2009 NSPL Car 3601-UP, Car Hardcore, and Car Points World Champion Posts: 1847 | From: The Triad | Registered: Jan 2008
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SoundStream/XS Power 5th place SS N/W World Finals 08 Reigonal 5th place SS N/W World Finals 09 N. America Posts: 1133 | From: Yorktown, IN | Registered: Aug 2007
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posted
for my 2 cents! i would say 3, 6" aerovents is not quite enough, 4 ports and cutting the length down should be an increase. and since you are all about testing, could you, or have you tried loading the vents to the driver's side wall? it may help to bring up the tuning as i see how the big box is smothering the vents at the rear which would definately make your freq peak low.
shortening the vents would probally cause a loss the way your big enclosure loads up now.
posted
Thanks Murilo, 18inchjeepin, and Canadian no-wall
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canadian no-wall,
I was thinking about another port but it wouldn't fit on the rear face of the box. Staggering them would have hit the magnets of the subs.
We tried one of Team Sundown Derrick's enclosures in the Jeep, side firing slot port, and it did peak at 53 Hz for me. That may very well be an option once I run out of steam with this box.
My theory is that rear firing with a wide box allows the port to very effectively load off the hatch and extend the effective port length.
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Tommy,
I am running out of depth. We were going to test one of Derrick's external aero port boxes from his Explorer but the port would actually touch my hatch. I may try it anyway with shorter ports later on.
-------------------- - Jacob Fuller Posts: 990 | From: Mooresville, NC | Registered: Oct 2001
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posted
you need less of a box. i'd go with 4 10's.
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2006 Street A - 152.7 Certified 2007 Street C - 154.8 Certified 2007 Street A - 154.4 Certified 2008 Street C - 156.3 Certified 2008 Street B - 156.6 Certified
TEAM FEAR OF BASS Posts: 3611 | From: Toronto, On, Canada | Registered: Feb 2001
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posted
nevermind, i didnt relaize this was for super street. I'd go with 6 12's then.
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2006 Street A - 152.7 Certified 2007 Street C - 154.8 Certified 2007 Street A - 154.4 Certified 2008 Street C - 156.3 Certified 2008 Street B - 156.6 Certified
TEAM FEAR OF BASS Posts: 3611 | From: Toronto, On, Canada | Registered: Feb 2001
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posted
i see what your saying about the ports, i hope you do more tests with 2x 15"......7 cubes internal, and use either 4x 6" vents or 2 9" with seperate chambers for the woofers, vents extending from the rear of the box.
you will be able to reposition the box to better your port loading without having the box so close as to change the tuning.
I dont think it much matters if your peak freq stays the same with different designs, its all about the design that works in the end rite?? keep in mind though that from what ive seen, your enclosure's are all quite large, and you may need to work with size especially while correcting your loading and porting.
I am helping a friend with a street.b crx and ive found that every last detail in the enclosure build has a drastic result, when you review notes from your last few enclosure, you can see exactly whats next to try!
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