posted
I put in a 250 amp alt in my 96 explorer made from powermaster and now i'm running into problems.I have 2 fuseable link wires going to my starter replay that keeps blowing up after a few days only doing this after new alt was put in so does this meen i have to upgrade the relay to like a stinger200 amp relay?
-------------------- 2 Powerbass Extreme 4000d's 1 Kicker 700.5 4 DC SOUNDLAB L4 15'S DUAL 1'S 4 Optima Yellow tops 2 Kicker ss 6.5 midbass Lanzar seprates kickpanels Sony MEX-DV2000 head unit 250A Powermaster Alt http://www.myspace.com/alexgomezsr
Building a wall for the explorer. Posts: 438 | From: Westfield,Massachusetts | Registered: Jun 2004
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posted
I have a 98' Ranger with the same alt and i have not had this problem. They could have changed something from 96 to 98 though. Can you take a pic of where your relays are located? are they in the fuse box under the hood?
Posts: 244 | From: Springfield, IL | Registered: May 2005
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posted
I checked my truck ('97 ford f-150 4.6L) and we should have the same stock wiring scheme. The alt. positive line runs through a fuse to the starter relay. At that same point on the starter relay, a short piece of wire is fused then goes to the trucks main electrical distro. box. If both fuses are blowing, that means a hefty amount of current is passing through the stock wire.
I don't think a larger relay would help because there will still be a large amount of current passing through the fuses since it goes fuses then relay.
I don't believe the problem is at start-up because the alt. isn't putting out juice initially and the starter shouldn't draw more current than the fuses can support.
I'm stuck on this one... The only option I see is to remove the stock positive wire from the alt. to the starter relay, since you have a new piece running from the alt. to the battery. The only problem with this is that the car components will be powered by the battery which is powered by the alt. and won't be directly connected to the alternator. I'm not a fan of altering stock wiring as well...
If anyone can help on this one it would be much appreciated. I'm looking into upgrading my alternator and don't want to run into the same problem.
posted
The alternator is not grounded properly, or the positive cable is not connected properly. You should have a 0 gauge cable running straight from the housing of the alternator to the negative terminal of the battery, and a zero gauge unfused cable running from the alternator charge post to the positive terminal of the battery.
quote:Originally posted by MECHMAN: The alternator is not grounded properly, or the positive cable is not connected properly. You should have a 0 gauge cable running straight from the housing of the alternator to the negative terminal of the battery, and a zero gauge unfused cable running from the alternator charge post to the positive terminal of the battery.
This was the first time i ever put one in and thats what i have to do is the one from the alt to the ground side of batt.I have 1 one unfused to the batt + 2 grounds from the alt to the block and the other going to the fire wall all o gauge.Thanks MECHMAN.
-------------------- 2 Powerbass Extreme 4000d's 1 Kicker 700.5 4 DC SOUNDLAB L4 15'S DUAL 1'S 4 Optima Yellow tops 2 Kicker ss 6.5 midbass Lanzar seprates kickpanels Sony MEX-DV2000 head unit 250A Powermaster Alt http://www.myspace.com/alexgomezsr
Building a wall for the explorer. Posts: 438 | From: Westfield,Massachusetts | Registered: Jun 2004
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