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» Termpro Audio Forum » Component Specific Topics » Alternators, Batteries, Interconnects » Tips and tricks for the low budget (Page 1)

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Author Topic: Tips and tricks for the low budget
z3pr
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Post up your tips and tricks for low to no budget. One thing I've always done is run a larger wire from the alt. to the battery. Cheap and easy. Yes, it does help.

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Rayo
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You know by running too large of wire from the alternator to the battery you can burn out the post..Too large is not a good idea..4 gauge is sufficient..

Rayo..

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z3pr
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I was planning on 4 gauge. Lot bigger then stock.

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2000 Oldsmobile Alero GLS coupe. Clarion DXZ945MP, Clarion SIR-CL2 SIRIUS Satellite Tuner, Clarion DCZ625 CD Changer, Phoenix Gold Octane R5.0:4, Infinity Kappa 462.7cfp plates in the doors and Infinity Kappa 693.7i's in the rear deck , SoundStream PCX2000D, Single TREO Engineering SSX 12.11 in custom built slot port box.

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D-Bass
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quote:
Originally posted by Rayo:
You know by running too large of wire from the alternator to the battery you can burn out the post..Too large is not a good idea..4 gauge is sufficient..

Rayo..

[Freak]
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AudioXtremes
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quote:
Originally posted by Rayo:
You know by running too large of wire from the alternator to the battery you can burn out the post..Too large is not a good idea..4 gauge is sufficient..

Rayo..

Do what?

Running larger wire will only reduce resistance. If your alternators post isn't large enough to handle the potential charge current then thats the alternators fault, not the wire.

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Team Naptime
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actually...

gus from ohio generator says the same thing..

i never run larger than 4g off the alternator.


gus's explanation...

with too large of a wire.. say for example, 0g you reduce the resistance so much that the only bottleneck is the post on the alt.

this becomes the resistor.

if you are pulling too much power, it can overheat, and melt the plastic around it.


he builds my alts.. i listen to what he has to say...

its a short distance from the alt to the battery. 4g is more than sufficient.

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Andy Jones
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^So they are suggesting use the wire as a big "fuse"?

Shouldn't the alternator parts be capable of handling the current the alternator can produce?

Because essentially what that means is the alternator can produce so much more current than the post can handle that they want you to use an external control (the wire) to keep it from producing that power--and if it does--they would rather the wire fail (burn up) than the alternator.


Am I wrong here?

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AudioXtremes
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Jay, not to start an arguement here but you just reiterated what I said. It's the alternators fault for having a small post as do all OG's I've seen. I've owned 2 OG's, a EA, a HO alt, and a Iraggi is currently on my van because it was cheap.

If I bought new I would buy a mechman. Every part is bigger than a OG and the post is twice the size and 1/0 is reccomended.

No doubt OG can built a good alt, but my money says Mechman is better.

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peas247
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i just shipped my alt out to ohio gen to get rebuilt, its a ea alt and twice i have had the post on the back melt off. i have the big 3 ran in zero, so looks like i should drop the batt to alt wire down to 4g huh? i went over my electrial time and time again lookin for a short and this sheds some light on that issue
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Team Naptime
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i'm not saying i think its right or wrong. jsut saying thats what gus told me in the past, so i listen to him.


i know where you are coming from though jerry and andy.


iirc, my 300 amp og had a much larger post than the 160 did.

the 300 was a large case gm and the 160 was a small case cs130.. perhaps that was the differance in the post? or maybe og put a beefier post due to the larger amperage?

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2007 Usaci State Records : Mod 2001-4000 : Mod 4000-up : Port Wars Open : Street Beat 4.
2008 Sold the nissan and took a break to build a new minitruck.
2009 Coming back with Bass Race & Psychlone in the minitruck.

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AudioXtremes
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Could be. I have a large case OG that stopped charging sitting here. It has the same size post as my 200 amp iraggi.

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amish power
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How does mechman alts compare to powermaster xs volts and DC power alts?

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audiocustoms85
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quote:
Originally posted by peas247:
i just shipped my alt out to ohio gen to get rebuilt, its a ea alt and twice i have had the post on the back melt off. i have the big 3 ran in zero, so looks like i should drop the batt to alt wire down to 4g huh? i went over my electrial time and time again lookin for a short and this sheds some light on that issue

I never had a problem with the post on my 240amp ohio last year... I had 3 runs of 0 from the post to my batteries in the back of the van and a 0 gauge to the powermaster step down module to power the rest of the van??? When I pulled the alt out it still was shiny... no signs of getting too hot???

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AudioXtremes
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Here is a comparison pic of the og style vs mechman stud.

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maximum exertion
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i think audioxtreme show in the pic that the proof is in the pudding, that post looks twice the thickness
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D-Bass
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it also looks to be copper, instead of Silicon-Bronze
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MECHMAN
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The biggest problem with output studs melting is actually the connector that you use. 99% of all 1/0 crimp-on cable ends have a 8mm hole in them. When you use a 8mm hole on a 6mm stud, the contact surface area is GREATLY reduced. This creates a restriction in current flow, and subsequently a hot spot that can burn up.

That's why we build ALL of our 250+ amp units with an oversized stud, AND include an extra heavy duty PROPERLY SIZED 1/0 cable end, so that it is gauranteed to have the properly sized hole.

Hope that explains it.

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AudioXtremes
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He has spoken.

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taterdog
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quote:
Originally posted by AudioXtremes:
Here is a comparison pic of the og style vs mechman stud.

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which ones which?
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D-Bass
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the mechman is on the right with the larger copper stud
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dB_mini
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So for a guy like me who has a stock alternator (toyota 75 amp IIRC) is it safe to use 0awg due to distance?


My alternator is located at the front of my engine and my battery is located at the lower of my windscreen. Is it safe for me to use the 0awg? I mean I have about 6 yards sitting around home and it would hurt for me to have to go buy more wire. [Freak]

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murilo@soundigital.com.br
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quote:
Originally posted by MECHMAN:
The biggest problem with output studs melting is actually the connector that you use. 99% of all 1/0 crimp-on cable ends have a 8mm hole in them. When you use a 8mm hole on a 6mm stud, the contact surface area is GREATLY reduced. This creates a restriction in current flow, and subsequently a hot spot that can burn up.

That's why we build ALL of our 250+ amp units with an oversized stud, AND include an extra heavy duty PROPERLY SIZED 1/0 cable end, so that it is gauranteed to have the properly sized hole.

Hope that explains it.

perfect explanation, contact resistance.

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Heavybass99
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quote:
Originally posted by Rayo:
You know by running too large of wire from the alternator to the battery you can burn out the post..Too large is not a good idea..4 gauge is sufficient..

Rayo..

Not really! I run 1/0 guage and it work fine. SYstem got evenly louder to piss peoples off. Sorry i didn't really mean to do that but it so fun.
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Wagonized
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i think its pretty clear that if the user is simply eliminating bottlenecks in the system and by doing this it causes the stock parts of the alt to fail...that the design of the alt is the problem not anything the user is doing.

Props to mechman for the design innovation. I was very happy with my 300 amp excessive amperage alt, aswell as my 200 amp Team Shadow Alt but none of them had upgraded posts. I think my next alt will be a Mechman

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dB_mini
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quote:
Originally posted by dB_mini:
So for a guy like me who has a stock alternator (toyota 75 amp IIRC) is it safe to use 0awg due to distance?


My alternator is located at the front of my engine and my battery is located at the lower of my windscreen. Is it safe for me to use the 0awg? I mean I have about 6 yards sitting around home and it would hurt for me to have to go buy more wire. [Freak]


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