I just met up with a friend from highschool that I havent seen in a while who was also pretty into car audio. And I told him about my recent alternator swap with my AC and he was really into it and liked it...then he told me he also had dual alternators (almost the exact same setup as mine actually...but his was in a truck and he just had more space to mount an alt near the pulley setup and run the belt to it that way). So I took a look and the mounting bracket looked pretty darn good n such and I was pretty impressed with his aswell.
Anyway...we got into the truck to have a hear and I noticed he had a switch that he flicked on and ofcourse I asked him what it was wired to (expecting it to be his amps turn-on wire)...but then he said it was his alternator turn-on. I then had a fairly long conversation with him about it, why..and so on. And he basically turns on his newer, big alternator only when he wants to crank it up...otherwise he keeps it at a pretty reasonible volume (barely has the subs playing at all...its kinda weird...but to each his own) with just the one alt on.
So ive been wondering if thats good to have the alt turn on and off while driving? It seems kinda reasonible but then again im not sure. Im just planning on tapping into a remote wire somewhere under the hood or something for mine (mine still isnt wired up yet because nothings in the trunk untill I get it more ready).
So, do you guys think its feasible to do it that way (have the turn-on lead for the alternator on a switch...so just the one is putting out current and the other is just chillin?)?
Because I would have a simliar situation coming upp when I would turn off the SoundStream and turn on my 8's amp to listen to faster rock clearer than the 18 can...and I wouldnt need the heaps of current for just the smaller amps...
Only dual-alternator Saturn on the planet Sub and sub amp: 18" Fi BTL fully loaded, fed by a SoundStream XXX10000 Handmade custom bracket replacing AC with 250 amp alt Soon - 205 amp alternator in stock location Batteries: Trunk-(2) XS Power D3100's 4 power+4 ground 0-gauge runs to rear Posts: 547 | From: OH | Registered: Apr 2007
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first thing i would do is hook it up and see if it puts out current under load.If it does then it is probably (self excited) meaning when under load it will produce current, thats how mine was.It put out just being hooked up to the belt no wires.One day i decided to hook up the wire that was supposedly a 12v turn on/off , it was a single orange wire.After turning it on and off for a coulpe of weeks beatin the system turning the alt on and off it got too hot and burnt the center diode in it.So when i got it back i just left the turn on wire on the off position, and never had a problem since, this was on a ohio generator, that was @ 15.3v, hope this helps
-------------------- ***new setup for 08*** new vehicle 04 navi on 26 s bass race 140-49.9 class hehehehe 4 dd 9918 s 9 kinetik hc 2400s 4 opti 6000d s 2 batcap super 38k batts 260 alt by dom Posts: 1071 | From: b-more murderland MD | Registered: Sep 2003
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he just has it hooked up to an external regulator for the second alt and turns it off when not needed and then turns it on when he needs it i do the same thing with my truck becasue if the alt is not being used then its not making heat and less strain on the cars motor which to me would make the alt last even longer and better gas mileage. Mine is a ohio generator
posted
So, it would be safe to do this on the daily? And how much current did yours put out with nothing hooked upto it (the turn on wire not hooked upto it)?
And what about the start-up 'procedure' of your car...would you leave the big alt off while you start up the car...then turn it on (so theres less initial stress...im thinking?) once the cars up and running?
Oh, and another thing...my alt is actually a 250 amp alternator meant for a suburban (i think around 98-01 model or something)...and they said all it would need is the turn-on lead hooked up and ofcourse the power wire to the battery...but im very leary of not using the other 3 wires on the harness...im def going do testing on it to make sure its putting out atleast 14.4 volts and proper amps at diff rpms....just any thoughts on why they would say not to worry about those wires?...they would be there for something with the suburban...
Thanks guys
-------------------- Creator-Ohio Bass Society
Only dual-alternator Saturn on the planet Sub and sub amp: 18" Fi BTL fully loaded, fed by a SoundStream XXX10000 Handmade custom bracket replacing AC with 250 amp alt Soon - 205 amp alternator in stock location Batteries: Trunk-(2) XS Power D3100's 4 power+4 ground 0-gauge runs to rear Posts: 547 | From: OH | Registered: Apr 2007
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i wouldn't see why it wouldn't be safe for a daily i wouldn't go turning it on why u are doing 80 down the street and both of my alts are 250amp large case GM
Only dual-alternator Saturn on the planet Sub and sub amp: 18" Fi BTL fully loaded, fed by a SoundStream XXX10000 Handmade custom bracket replacing AC with 250 amp alt Soon - 205 amp alternator in stock location Batteries: Trunk-(2) XS Power D3100's 4 power+4 ground 0-gauge runs to rear Posts: 547 | From: OH | Registered: Apr 2007
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my large case gm alt is a ohio 265 amp @ 15.3v ,my explorer alt is an ohio replacement 220 amp internally regulated at 14.4v.when i put the 2nd alt on, mine excites by its self, as soon as i hit it, it gives me full current output,i left the one wire turn on alone after i burn t it up the first time, it hasn t happened again though
-------------------- ***new setup for 08*** new vehicle 04 navi on 26 s bass race 140-49.9 class hehehehe 4 dd 9918 s 9 kinetik hc 2400s 4 opti 6000d s 2 batcap super 38k batts 260 alt by dom Posts: 1071 | From: b-more murderland MD | Registered: Sep 2003
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Cool, but Im still a bit confused about the wires not being used...they said Id be fine with only the turn-on wire hooked up and I somehow doubt that....what do you guys think?...theres three other wires besides the turn-on and they said not to worry about it and it should make around 14.5V....?..
-------------------- Creator-Ohio Bass Society
Only dual-alternator Saturn on the planet Sub and sub amp: 18" Fi BTL fully loaded, fed by a SoundStream XXX10000 Handmade custom bracket replacing AC with 250 amp alt Soon - 205 amp alternator in stock location Batteries: Trunk-(2) XS Power D3100's 4 power+4 ground 0-gauge runs to rear Posts: 547 | From: OH | Registered: Apr 2007
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posted
Cool, but yea. Im still going to get a clamping multimeter to check out the output and the voltage. Thanks
-------------------- Creator-Ohio Bass Society
Only dual-alternator Saturn on the planet Sub and sub amp: 18" Fi BTL fully loaded, fed by a SoundStream XXX10000 Handmade custom bracket replacing AC with 250 amp alt Soon - 205 amp alternator in stock location Batteries: Trunk-(2) XS Power D3100's 4 power+4 ground 0-gauge runs to rear Posts: 547 | From: OH | Registered: Apr 2007
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posted
My uncle is an electrician and has some that were hundreds of dollars..i'll use those, pretty sure theyd be pretty darn accurate
-------------------- Creator-Ohio Bass Society
Only dual-alternator Saturn on the planet Sub and sub amp: 18" Fi BTL fully loaded, fed by a SoundStream XXX10000 Handmade custom bracket replacing AC with 250 amp alt Soon - 205 amp alternator in stock location Batteries: Trunk-(2) XS Power D3100's 4 power+4 ground 0-gauge runs to rear Posts: 547 | From: OH | Registered: Apr 2007
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quote:Originally posted by MR HARD HITTER: first thing i would do is hook it up and see if it puts out current under load.If it does then it is probably (self excited) meaning when under load it will produce current, thats how mine was.It put out just being hooked up to the belt no wires.One day i decided to hook up the wire that was supposedly a 12v turn on/off , it was a single orange wire.After turning it on and off for a coulpe of weeks beatin the system turning the alt on and off it got too hot and burnt the center diode in it.So when i got it back i just left the turn on wire on the off position, and never had a problem since, this was on a ohio generator, that was @ 15.3v, hope this helps
Oh yea, i meant to ask this a bit ago...how much current was getting put out when the turn-on was 'off'?...how much more did it make with it on? thanks
-------------------- Creator-Ohio Bass Society
Only dual-alternator Saturn on the planet Sub and sub amp: 18" Fi BTL fully loaded, fed by a SoundStream XXX10000 Handmade custom bracket replacing AC with 250 amp alt Soon - 205 amp alternator in stock location Batteries: Trunk-(2) XS Power D3100's 4 power+4 ground 0-gauge runs to rear Posts: 547 | From: OH | Registered: Apr 2007
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Just got the alternator hooked upto the HC1400 under the hood via 0-gauge run to the positive busbar. I then soldered the turn-on lead to a run of 10-gauge power wire and ran that into the cabin.
I then hooked up another run of 10-gauge power wire to the positive busbar on the battery and put the 2 runs of 10-gauge on a switch inside the cabin.
I first turn on the car with the switch "off" and after a second or two I flip the switch (and take away the top...haha, no) and turn on the alternator and can hear it working and making a different sound with the belt (I get out with the hood open to check it out closer), so I then back out of the driveway and start off on my drive. I have the voltage background on my headunit which reads a steady 14.5 or so volts for the first portion of my ride out of my neighborhood (25-30mph with a couple of stops). Which im not saying is 100% accurate or anything, but has to have some ballpark sense of voltage levels.
I then get out on the main road which is 45mph and bring it up to speed and keep a very constant 45mph with no changing rpm's. I then notice the meter reading a steady 13.9-14.1 almost the whole trip from there on (and noticed drops down to 13.6 and 13.7 pretty regularly).
I have no amplifiers or any abnormal current draws of any sort going on and Im mainly just wondering, why the voltage drops? It was just a Pioneer 7700 headunit with a single pair of component speakers hooked upto it that would be extra.
Was it just not putting out because it didnt sense the need for it?
Any insite for this would be a great help.
Thanks in advance
-------------------- Creator-Ohio Bass Society
Only dual-alternator Saturn on the planet Sub and sub amp: 18" Fi BTL fully loaded, fed by a SoundStream XXX10000 Handmade custom bracket replacing AC with 250 amp alt Soon - 205 amp alternator in stock location Batteries: Trunk-(2) XS Power D3100's 4 power+4 ground 0-gauge runs to rear Posts: 547 | From: OH | Registered: Apr 2007
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posted
my alt produced the same with the turn on wire on 12v, and then open(off), still made 260 + amps
-------------------- ***new setup for 08*** new vehicle 04 navi on 26 s bass race 140-49.9 class hehehehe 4 dd 9918 s 9 kinetik hc 2400s 4 opti 6000d s 2 batcap super 38k batts 260 alt by dom Posts: 1071 | From: b-more murderland MD | Registered: Sep 2003
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posted
So...with more load I shouldnt see more voltage drop?..I really dont want it sitting at the 13.9V or so I was seeing the whole ride...im looking more for a steady 14.5+
So, it will pick up slack as its needed you're saying and keep the voltage up?
-------------------- Creator-Ohio Bass Society
Only dual-alternator Saturn on the planet Sub and sub amp: 18" Fi BTL fully loaded, fed by a SoundStream XXX10000 Handmade custom bracket replacing AC with 250 amp alt Soon - 205 amp alternator in stock location Batteries: Trunk-(2) XS Power D3100's 4 power+4 ground 0-gauge runs to rear Posts: 547 | From: OH | Registered: Apr 2007
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posted
that is correct if the alternator is strong enuff
it should pick up the slack if it produces enuff voltage and current, if you get one tell the manufacturer to turn the regulator up to 14.8v or so, that should do you justice..., with the amp your running your gonna need it,ur amp is built on the same circuit board as my opti 6k s, they say 600 amp draw is possible...@ 1 ohm nominal.
-------------------- ***new setup for 08*** new vehicle 04 navi on 26 s bass race 140-49.9 class hehehehe 4 dd 9918 s 9 kinetik hc 2400s 4 opti 6000d s 2 batcap super 38k batts 260 alt by dom Posts: 1071 | From: b-more murderland MD | Registered: Sep 2003
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posted
^thats what I like to hear (about the current draw that is) hehehe
-------------------- Creator-Ohio Bass Society
Only dual-alternator Saturn on the planet Sub and sub amp: 18" Fi BTL fully loaded, fed by a SoundStream XXX10000 Handmade custom bracket replacing AC with 250 amp alt Soon - 205 amp alternator in stock location Batteries: Trunk-(2) XS Power D3100's 4 power+4 ground 0-gauge runs to rear Posts: 547 | From: OH | Registered: Apr 2007
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posted
cool man now bump that btl like it s never been bumped before,...lol
-------------------- ***new setup for 08*** new vehicle 04 navi on 26 s bass race 140-49.9 class hehehehe 4 dd 9918 s 9 kinetik hc 2400s 4 opti 6000d s 2 batcap super 38k batts 260 alt by dom Posts: 1071 | From: b-more murderland MD | Registered: Sep 2003
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posted
Oh I will, haha...Its actually in right now on the XXX10000 wired to 4 ohms...its hittin damn hard, thats for sure...im kinda scared to drop it to 1 ohm...I mean, think of the children! hahaha
-------------------- Creator-Ohio Bass Society
Only dual-alternator Saturn on the planet Sub and sub amp: 18" Fi BTL fully loaded, fed by a SoundStream XXX10000 Handmade custom bracket replacing AC with 250 amp alt Soon - 205 amp alternator in stock location Batteries: Trunk-(2) XS Power D3100's 4 power+4 ground 0-gauge runs to rear Posts: 547 | From: OH | Registered: Apr 2007
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posted
wow, youll gain mad db going from 4 to 1 ohm probably 3-5 db id say, especially if u have the current, whats ur coil configurations?
-------------------- ***new setup for 08*** new vehicle 04 navi on 26 s bass race 140-49.9 class hehehehe 4 dd 9918 s 9 kinetik hc 2400s 4 opti 6000d s 2 batcap super 38k batts 260 alt by dom Posts: 1071 | From: b-more murderland MD | Registered: Sep 2003
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