posted
k, i need help designing the cable path for this extra battery. so we've got a battery up front, a battery in the trunk, two amps in the trunk, a 200amp stinger solinoid somewhere, and our alt. so where do i run -which wires from what (confusing huh) basicly what i need to know is, do i runn my Live feed back to the second batt(pos) fron the Alts(pos) or from the main batts(pos). -where should i be grounding my second batt(neg), do i run it back up to the front, or ground it to the chassis. -do i draw my amps(pos) from the second batts(pos) and ground them to the same point as the Second batt(neg) -what cables should i upgrade up front (i think most of the one's up there are 8awg and all in very poor condition.
i would use my classic trial and error, but it usually results in a visit from the Fire Department (i know most of them by name, not kidding) so i would like a basic i dea of what goes where before i shock myself (i kinda like getting shocked, but not when expensive equipment goes along with it)
drawing me a quick sketch and emiling it to me along with some notes would be best. i'm not easily confused, but you may have trouble explaining in word's.
P.S. i've discovered that you can make quite an effective taser with a disposible camera with flash, two nails, and some wire. this baby melted a hole clean through a nikel (these are the wierd things i tend to end up setting fires with)
posted
I have done a few of these over the years. Mount the solenoid as close to the alternator as feasable. Connect an 8g wire from one of the big lugs on the solenoid to the back of the alternator. Connect the other big lug from the solenoid to a fuse, again as close as feasable. Run the 8g wire from the fuse through the car (as you do for a normal amp installation). Once in the area where the second battery is, mount another fuse. Fuse must be no more than 18" off the battery. Now you have the positive done and the wire is fully protected in both directions - you need this because there is power potentail from both sides. Now run a 4g wire from the new battery to the frame of the car. Try to make this wire as short as possible. A good connection here is vital. I always use a BIG bolt and a BIG wrench to make sure that contact will always be good. Apply paint or grease over the connection when done. The frame will be acting as the negative conductor. Now from inside the engine bay, run another 4g wire from the frame to the engine block. Again, this connection needs to be mint as well. If you can connect this wire at the alternator bracket bolt even better. The goal is to make as low a resistance connection as possible from the new battery to the alternator. Thats basically it. I have installs out there using this method that were done almost 10 years ago - back when some people were still using battery isolators.
On my Turbo Trans Am I was able to mount the second battery in front of the car. Actually right in front of the drivers side wheel. If you are able to mount the new battery inside the engine compartment I would recommend doing that. The heat from the motor actually makes the battery accept a charge faster. You would be able to get rid of the fuse in back then as well. HTH Ed
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[This message has been edited by TurboTaMan (edited 06-30-2000).]
posted
i got room to mount six batteries up front (go figure, i have no idea why there's so much space up there). so if i mount the two batteries side by side, say leave the main on the right side (if facing the car) and put the Deep Cycle in on the left side. how would i run the cables.
i'm gonna use all 1/0 anywhere possible. 1) Alt(pos) to Solinoid(pos) 2) Solinoid(neg) to DpCyc-Batt(pos) 3) DpCyc-Batt(Neg) to Frame 4) Frame to Engine block (as close to alt as possible) 5) Main Batt(neg) to Engine Block 6) Main Batt(pos) to ?
so where would i slap fuses in here, and where do i run the power to the amps from (i'm guessing the DpCyc-Batt(pos) ). now i'm getting confused. oh well
posted
Sounds like your install will be similar to mine. Just do everything as I said in the post before. You will only need 1 fuse now - it will go from the new battery back to the amps. I ran 2 grounds from the new battery. One goes to the frame of the car. The other goes to the engine block. Reason being, a low resistance connection is needed from the alt to the battery and then also from the battery to the amps. Every little bit helps. If you can, still use the frame rail as a ground for your amps. It will help cut down on headlight dimming. HTH Ed
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