posted
the pully on the alt. that the belt runs on. If you were to put a smaller pully on it it would make it turn faster. Do you think you could get more power out of it this way with out burning it up. Like only a 5% to 10% increase of rotation of the alt with a smaller pully.
What do you guys think?
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Posts: 1036 | From: Not where you are! | Registered: Apr 2000
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posted
Hmm. Well at idle, where the problem of low output lies, and say 800RPM, the new alternator speed would only be 880RPM - not enuf to make any difference. Turning the pully down enuf to make a difference will cause major problems at higher engine RPMs.
Popular idea - but not overly practical..
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posted
i thought about that as well, because my major problem is not enough power at idle. my suburban idles at 500 rpms, so that doesnt help any. it would cause more trouble that its worth i would think because like dukk said, at higher rpms, it could damage it. also, you would have to redo your belt to get the right amount of tension, which would be a pain.
i guess that it could be done, i was talking to a dealer the other day about my low idle-no power problem, and he said he could talk to the manufacturer about a different pully size, but that would be done by the manufacturer so the engineers could approve it first... i dont know how much it would cost.
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posted
When I upgraded my alt I did a overdrive pulley. I wanted to be able to get full power out of my alt at an idle speed that wouldn't be near the rule imposed limit. I put in some tall rear axle gears to keep the engine speed down at highway cruisan so as to not constantly toast alternators... However, I put a set of bearings in the alt once a year and keep a puller and extra front bearing with me at all times. Ah, what we do for are spl cars...
posted
The problem I see is most vehicles do not produce enough HP at idle. I've dropped the idle on some cars by 300RPM (1750 down to 1300) under heavy electrical load. Imagine a car idling at 600-800 RPM and you burp your system with a 140-200AMP alterntor (or multiple alts, as we have in our car) I'd say the car would stall, and that would defeat the purpose of the high current alternator to begin with. I'd say find a way to keep the RPM up during a run.
------------------ Shaughn Murley HERTZ AUDIO Team Hertz CANADA
Posts: 444 | From: Red Deer, AB, Canada | Registered: Mar 2000
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posted
I've seen bricks used for that purpose, the guy just set a brick leaning on his accelerator pedal and hopped out. In racing, stock engine pulleys are often swapped for a smaller one to reduce the power loss due to the alt, AC, etc. Making it larger causes problems at high revs, but if you drive carefully and never rev high, the benefits may outweigh the risks.
quote:Originally posted by DrHertz: The problem I see is most vehicles do not produce enough HP at idle. I've dropped the idle on some cars by 300RPM (1750 down to 1300) under heavy electrical load. Imagine a car idling at 600-800 RPM and you burp your system with a 140-200AMP alterntor (or multiple alts, as we have in our car) I'd say the car would stall, and that would defeat the purpose of the high current alternator to begin with. I'd say find a way to keep the RPM up during a run.
It is not HP that you need to pull things it is tourke (spelling)(sorry im tired) anyway you can have all the hp in the world but if you have no tourke you arent going anywhere.
thanks 4 the input guys
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Posts: 1036 | From: Not where you are! | Registered: Apr 2000
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posted
Hmm, a person could stack a pair of pullys on the alt - a factory size and a tiny one for drag day. 5 minutes to swap the belt around IF you don't have a serpentine...
One of the simplest 'rev adjusters' I have seen is a tie strap around the throttle lever on the carb/throttle body. Wrap it around the bracket and tighten until the car makes just under 2000RPM. At the end of the show, just cut it off...
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posted
i've seen several ways of raising the rpm's. the easiest, and hardest, was the brick idea, it's really hard to get the perfect rpm while trying to adjust the weight of a brick on the pedal. some better ones were- -a small steel cable attached to the throttle arm on the carb, running up to the grill, he had a pair of vice grips that he would clamp onto the cable to hold it where he set it. - i saw a guy actually adjust his idle speed. using the big screwdriver method. worked good, but in most vehicles that adjustment point is hard to get ar with intricate accuracy, plus you gott set it back to where it was. - myself, i did this purly to keep the car running while i was working on it. i installed a steel cable (like above) that was sheathed (like a bikes brake cable, in fact it was the old hood lock cable, same thing) and ran it from the throttle arm through a small bracket i fabricated (dremel cut good, cut skin real good too), and down above the rad. the bracket keeps the cable from interfearing when not in use. it allows the cable to move through it freely, unless it is engaged at which point a clip on the cable stops at the bracket and then the arm is pull. the other end is simple a small forked piece of metal attached above the rad, a ring on the end on the cable and a small steel balled crimped on the cable at the desired setting. simply pull the ring and place the ball behide the fork to hold it. it's not accurate at all, but it does get the rmps up high enough to keep it from stalling. this is the crap i do when i get bored. infact i was just looking for something to do with the hood lock crap.
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posted
I'm a big screwdriver guy Turn it up to 1300rpm and the overdrive on the alt and I get plenty of juice. A burp drags the motor down to 1k even or so. When the shows over then turn the idle back down... Gotta love an old car with plenty of liters of engine
posted
oh ya, i love big bad old cars. i drive one. 301 5liter V8 unfortunatly it's a gas pig, thus due to the way i drive (fast, heavy acceleration and alot) i nad to get a smaller car. so i stuck with a 2.2liter v4, with little tiny bb sized balls
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posted
you could put a high idle switch on it like ambulances and fire trucks have. we talked about this for mine. that would be the most convenient at shows, but prob the hardest and most expensive to install.
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posted
if i remember correctly my friend had one of those computers that you hook up to new cars to find out what is wrong with them but his was made to change stuff like tire size, top speed, when to shif gears,ect.. i think idel speed was on there too.
hummm that is something to look into.
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Posts: 1036 | From: Not where you are! | Registered: Apr 2000
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posted
Well, One other, way out possibility that has not been mentioned...
If you recall, on go-karts, they use Torque Converters to change a constant RPM of the engine into a varied RPM at the rear axle.
If you want to add an Idler Pully to make room for the added pair of pullies, machine out the brackets to fit all three, and try to locate a longer belt, feel free.
If properly configured, you could POSSIBLY arrange to have the RPM of the alternator constant, as the motor changes its revs. It's a lot of work, however, it seems to be a feesible option.
There's my input for today.
Aaron McCartan a_mccartan@hotmail.com
Posts: 101 | From: Overland Park, Kansas | Registered: Jan 2000
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posted
mixed result...that sounds like a great idea! what about the same type of electric clutch pulley to engage air conditioning compressor's on vehicles.on/off....?
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Posts: 122 | From: St.Louis, MO | Registered: Feb 2000
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