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Author Topic: Viper 550 ESP in a CAMRY...HELP!!!!
romnkar
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I was installing the 550 in a 97 Camry. Everything was going fine except that the remote starter wouldn't start the car. So, I put the key into the ignition and turned it to the on position. Then, I tried to remote start. OK fine, the car started BUT, it kept trying to start it afterwards (grinding the starter). I switched the two ignition wires and still the same thing. Without the key in the ignition the car will not start. BTW,I was using the alarm without the tach wire hooked up at this point. I then tried to hook up the tach wire but, still no luck....I grabbed it from under the hood(black/yellow wire).


At this point I am really getting frustrated with this alarm. I tried to program the alarm to use current sensing instead of the tach wire but, it would let me into the menus to change it. I followed directions and still nothing. Now I'm just tryin' to find a different tack wire...I don't know. Also, to add to the problems, the alarm arms and disarms when the car is running. The LED flashes constantly and the alarm doesn't recognized that the car is on.


Maybe I'm just tired and missing something stupid and simple. If any of you guys have had any problems like this, I'd appreciate any help.


Thanks, I'm gonna try and get some sleep now. I'll try again tomorrow.


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Posts: 47 | From: Bergenfield, NJ | Registered: Oct 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
AUTOSTYLE
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well if the alarm isnt letting you into menus maybe its defective??????

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Kevin Luther
KEV Sales


Posts: 624 | From: PEORIA, ARIZONA, US | Registered: Apr 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
neex
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The ESP Vipers come preconfigured to be 'armed while driving' -- this can be changed easily by valet menus or even more easily by going to a Bitwriter-equiped installer (ALL auth. DEI shops should have one handy).

I would reccomend taking the unit to be programmed at an authorized dealer. I think you should also use the tach wire (just my experience - although limited).

I have a 500ESP and it is hella reliable, functional, and easily programmable. About the lack of programability, are you turning the key into ACC/START and THEN within 30s. pressing the valet? Perhaps your brain is set to accept a pulse setting other than ONE (fact. default) for the valet. DEI's site has very good docs on common problems - if your brain is faulty, get it replaced (mine tends to be but they still keep me around)...


Andrew.

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Posts: 138 | From: St. Catharines, Canada | Registered: Apr 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
romnkar
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The manual says to turn the key on and then off, then push the valet button. I did that but, still nothing. I tried it with the car on, I tried it with the key in the "on" position, I get nothing. I checked the actual valet button and when the button isn't pushed down, I see a negative on the gray wire (of the valet button). When it's pushed down, I see a positive on the wire. I'm testing this at the brain, BTW. So, it looks like the valet button is ok. I running out of things to try but, I'm gonna have to give it a try later after work again.
If you guys get any more ideas let me know.

Thanks!!!

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Posts: 47 | From: Bergenfield, NJ | Registered: Oct 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
David McLean
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quote:
Originally posted by romnkar:


I was installing the 550 in a 97 Camry. Everything was going fine except that the remote starter wouldn't start the car. So, I put the key into the ignition and turned it to the on position. Then, I tried to remote start. OK fine, the car started BUT, it kept trying to start it afterwards (grinding the starter). I switched the two ignition wires and still the same thing. Without the key in the ignition the car will not start. BTW,I was using the alarm without the tach wire hooked up at this point. I then tried to hook up the tach wire but, still no luck....I grabbed it from under the hood(black/yellow wire).


At this point I am [b]really
getting frustrated with this alarm. I tried to program the alarm to use current sensing instead of the tach wire but, it would let me into the menus to change it. I followed directions and still nothing. Now I'm just tryin' to find a different tack wire...I don't know. Also, to add to the problems, the alarm arms and disarms when the car is running. The LED flashes constantly and the alarm doesn't recognized that the car is on.


Maybe I'm just tired and missing something stupid and simple. If any of you guys have had any problems like this, I'd appreciate any help.

Thanks, I'm gonna try and get some sleep now. I'll try again tomorrow.


[/B]


All of the problems you mention could be caused if you haven't used the right START and IGNITION wires. Did you actually test these wires with a DMM? Remember the correct ignition wire should show 12v+ with the key on, and continually while cranking the car. It should not drop out. The start wire will show 12v+ only when turning the key to the "crank" position.

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David McLean
Team Quadzilla
http://www.teamquadzilla.com


Posts: 3359 | From: Jacksonville, FL USA | Registered: Sep 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
romnkar
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Yeah, I'm sure I got the right wires...I used a computer safe test light to find them but, I'll make sure with the DMM. Starter wire does show positive when cranking only and "true" ignition shows positive in the on and crank position. I'll use the DMM to test the voltages and see if I have the right wires....

I did find that the heater/blower looks like a true ignition wire. I hooked up my pink/white 2nd ignition wire to it as well as the orange(?) heater blower wire. I don't know if this is causing my problem or not though. I disconnected the pink/white wire (2nd ignition) wire and tried it like that but, I still had the same problem.

Thanks.

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Posts: 47 | From: Bergenfield, NJ | Registered: Oct 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
DrHertz
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1997 Toyota Camry:

+12V - White or Black
Ign- Black/Red
Acc- Black/Yellow
Tach- Black/Orange (at ECM Behind Glovebox)
also green on top motor
Brake- Green/White (Switch above brake pedal
Parklight-Green/orange (front of fuse panel)
Factory Arm Blue/Green
Factory Disarm Red/green (in drivers kick panel, these wires can also be used for door locks, double pulse disarm for unlock doors)

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Shaughn Murley
HERTZ AUDIO
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Posts: 444 | From: Red Deer, AB, Canada | Registered: Mar 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
BozoWise
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This is a common problem with the 550, but your in luck. To program the alarm make sure you have the TACH hooked up and start the car. After 1 second press and hold down the valet until the led lights constant. This programs the tach voltage at idle. Your alarm is not programed thus the alarm does not know the engine has started.

As always a remote start is not one of those things I would ever let a customer install on his own. Viper also has strict warnings that I can not sell them without authorized employee installation.

If you or anyone else have Viper problems email me. i have been installing them for 8 years now and have a large data base to resolve problems and answer questions. I love the mail so feel free.

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Posts: 577 | From: Hobbs, NM yes I live in the USA | Registered: Sep 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Roadshop Tech
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Did you try LEARNING the tach wire..?
as far being defective....not likly....over the past 2 years I've installed close to 300 viper 550esp's and only had one bad out of the box. Also you don't always have to hit a tach wire....you can use the (-) side of a fuel injector wire.....works just as good . But the way you descibe the starter staying ingaged we running ..points me to the brain hasn't learned the tach......to do this...Start the car with the key .put the vehical in gear while you hold the brake...then push and hold the valet button...if you found the correct tach/fuel injector the alarm led will light up and the parking lights will flash....

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Posts: 78 | From: Erie, PA usa | Registered: Jan 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
ea1
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Just a quick question. This may be simple, but sometimes the simplest things get overlooked. The new 550s have an ignition wire in the harness(sometimes it doesn't) and an ignition wire on the relay bank. You HAVE to hook the ignition on the relay bank up, and the one on the brain doesn't matter. All of the things you talked about sounds like its not getting ignition to the brain, through the yellow wire in the five pin ribbon from the relay bank.

Maybe this isn't it, but its worth a look???

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Nathan Munson
Eastern Audio

team NOISY TOYS

[This message has been edited by ea1 (edited 09-26-2000).]


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ea1
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That could make it arm/disarm while the car is running(the alarm wouldn't know it), would not allow menus, and would be why the car wont start with the key out(alarm isn't providing ingition back up the yellow wire

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Nathan Munson
Eastern Audio

team NOISY TOYS


Posts: 2773 | From: Clovis, NM | Registered: Jun 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
romnkar
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Ok, I'll check out the ignition wire again and make sure that I have the right one and the pink wire from the relay is hooked up to it. What your sayin' makes sense so maybe you nailed it.

Thanks! I'll give it another try and let you guys know.

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Posts: 47 | From: Bergenfield, NJ | Registered: Oct 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Ettore
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Welcome to the world of high-quality auto-starters. If you can, switch the remote starter to just attempt to start the car for like 1 second. If you cannot do it, I suspect the tach wire does not have the propervoltages OR you didn't program it correctly

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Posts: 66 | From: Windsor, Ontario, Canada | Registered: Apr 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
romnkar
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Well, I didn't get a chance to look at it last night but, I hope to get to it tonight. I also got a hold of a bitwriter(sp?) so, I'll be sure to program it correctly!

If you guys can think of anything else, I'm still all ears!

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Posts: 47 | From: Bergenfield, NJ | Registered: Oct 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
romnkar
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Well, I'd like to thank everybody that has helped me with this...

I finally got a chance to look at the alarm last night. I had a loose connection on one of my 12v wires (not enough solder) and this was causing all of my problems. I resolder the connection,taped it up, and programmed the alarm with the bitwriter. I put it all up and the alarm and remote start is working perfectly!

It took awhile but, it finally got done!

Thanks again!

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Posts: 47 | From: Bergenfield, NJ | Registered: Oct 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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