I was considering either using the OEM horn or adding an aftermarket air horn with a compressor to be triggered by my DEI 500ESP alarm. This alarm (as you probably know) doesn't have a horn-honk output but rather a software code for selectign either horn or siren. I want both but am a little hazy on the best way to do it. If I am not mistaken, the negative trigger needs to be converted first with a relay to reverse the polarity?? I was then going to run a wire to ground and one to the horn output wire in the car. I was going to but a diode on the relay to avoid any nasty backlash but... how do I manage to have the horn pause or similar in order to shut up when arming/disarming or when the first stage goes off?? Is there a better way of pulsing than using a crappy old 12V/30A flasher??
posted
Use 2 relays. The first connects to your light flash wire. Alarm flash wire to 85 ground or + to 86 (depends on alarm) ground to 87 30 to 87 on second relay
The second relay attaches to your starter kill wire. Starter kill wire to 85 ground or + to 86 (depends on alarm) 30 to horn wire in steering column.
Most horns work on grounding the wire in the steering column. If yours is different, then 87 on the first relay needs to go to +.
This way, when you lights flash, a pulsed signal is sent to the second relay. The second relay will only pass this signal on to the horn if the starter kill is activated (which traditionally only happens upon alarm activation).
Personally, I avoid the honk and go for a constant horn output! It's much more annoying.
------------------ Blow your mind - PORT your box!
posted
Neighbors? Why, does you alarm cycle often?? We had 5 exterior sirens in the Avenger along with 2 car horns, an interior siren (not a joke pain generator) and interior car horn. It sounded like armageddon. Luckily for me, in 18months it NEVER falsed once during the night...
It's all in the set up...
------------------ Blow your mind - PORT your box!
posted
No, I can honestly say that in the last year with my new setup I have never seen one false. This is setup properly by a very reputable professional and tweeked a little by me personally as things were added here and there (strobes, piezos, additonal sirens with backup), etc...
I would just worry about the reactions if a constant horn note were to blast out. I just figured that 'break glass' would be on their minds is all...
I suppose if I never have to use this it is a different story. Can you post what you did with your truck? I am interested in crafty installs. Obviously I don't mean the loc. of the brain, etc, etc...
Driver's side front wheel well, behind the plastic liner, had a mechanical siren and a 6 tone siren (set on 2 tones) in front of the wheel, and the Ungo siren behind the wheel. Additionally, we swapped the factory wimpy horn for one out of a Mustang - big American sound. Finally, I cut and riveted a piece of perforated steel below the front sirens so there was no way to even touch them. Front passenger wheel well behind the plastic liner, in front of the wheel, an Alpine siren, and behind the wheel an Audiovox siren - that thing has a weird sound for sure! With all five plus the horn you got a very interesting effect outside the car - a weird modulation would kick up due to the different wails. It was very startling.
Inside, the Avenger has door locations with dashtop tweeter spots, like the Talon. For some reason it has vacant lower dash spots too. To get to these you have to take off a considerable part of the dash, so we hid a second 6tone siren (set on 2 tones) in the passenger spot and the factory Avenger siren in the drivers spot. Imagine sticking your head under the dash with that thing on full blast! The siren output of the car ran the outside sirens, through a relay - and I planned on adding a fused distro block so if one grounded it would blow it's fuse and leave the others isolated, but he sold the car. The interior sirens were off the alarming ouput of the siren. I stuck the brain in the cavity under the driver's rear side window, beside the back seat. A 7amp hour 12volt battery took up residence here too, for back up duty. I doide isolated it from the car so if the main power wire (10guage) for the alarm was cut and grounded, the backup battery would be safe - and active!
I accidentally set this guy off while finalizing the install. I blame it on not being totally familiar with the Ungo MS 8300 and it's auto rearm feature. It was 4am and I was in my closed garage. Wifey was less than impressed...
------------------ Blow your mind - PORT your box!
posted
Dukk, keep in mind that a constant output to a car horn can fuse the contacts on the horn, and you'll never be able to turn it off . A pulsing output is what I personally prefer, and was informed is "safer" .
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E.C. Wuz here
Posts: 1057 | From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada 'eh | Registered: May 1999
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posted
Pssssshhh. Never gonna happen dude The contacts in question would be on the relay, and they're good for 30 cont/40max. A horn draws about 15amps. Plus, most horns are protected with a circuit breaker, so you don't have to worry about snapping the fuse either... Also, I wouldn't expect the alarm to go off unless there was a genuine attack, in which case, I want hell to rain down around that car!! Too bad you never heard that alarm dude. Wait until you hear the R/T. Hoo-boy...
------------------ Blow your mind - PORT your box!
I was considering either using the OEM horn or adding an aftermarket air horn with a compressor to be triggered by my DEI 500ESP alarm. This alarm (as you probably know) doesn't have a horn-honk output but rather a software code for selectign either horn or siren. I want both but am a little hazy on the best way to do it. If I am not mistaken, the negative trigger needs to be converted first with a relay to reverse the polarity?? I was then going to run a wire to ground and one to the horn output wire in the car. I was going to but a diode on the relay to avoid any nasty backlash but... how do I manage to have the horn pause or similar in order to shut up when arming/disarming or when the first stage goes off?? Is there a better way of pulsing than using a crappy old 12V/30A flasher??
Thanks in advance,
Andrew.
I will say I have installed alarms using the factory horn. I know for a fact this can damage your cars horn. Even with a pulse output. It will make them sound "sick" after a while. If you want to connect your horn and a siren, you can. You would program your alarm for a constant output. If it is ground, you can use a relay and connect this directly to your negative wire on the siren, and run the positive wire of the siren to constant 12V+. As for the horn, you would need to use a flasher like you said, and connect to the horn wire in your car. this is a (-) wire. It is Blue with a Red stripe, found at the steering colunm harness. You will also need to diode isolate this circuit.
------------------ David McLean Team Quadzilla http://www.teamquadzilla.com
Thanks and kudos to both of you. You have given me some solid ideas... After I get it figured out in term of which way I will set it up, I will letcha know.
Thanks again.
Andrew.
I am thinking a using an old war-time air raid horn with a small compresser fed off a Bosh relay... this wouldn't me mistaken at the ole' gas and sip...
Thanks and kudos to both of you. You have given me some solid ideas... After I get it figured out in term of which way I will set it up, I will letcha know.
Thanks again.
Andrew.
I am thinking a using an old war-time air raid horn with a small compresser fed off a Bosh relay... this wouldn't me mistaken at the ole' gas and sip...
I have one of these...It sounds like WWIII Only problem with the mechanical sirens is, it will interfere with your radio frequency, you will not be able to disarm your system with the remote if it has triggered.
------------------ David McLean Team Quadzilla http://www.teamquadzilla.com
quote:Originally posted by Dukk: Hh. Never had that problem using a mechanical siren... Although the ones I get are a little more tame
Mine is an "old school" about 20 years old at least. It's put up in the garage right now. When I did use it, and my kids set the alarm off a few times. I had to get in and use the valet button to disarm, or just let the 1 minute pass and ignore it
------------------ David McLean Team Quadzilla http://www.teamquadzilla.com
posted
small value cap or a diode installed in parallel with the motor wires might help a little with cutting down the RFI from the motor ... we run into the same thing occasionally with heater fan motors and remote starts ...
JD
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Posts: 752 | From: San Diego | Registered: Jan 2000
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