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I have a 96 acura integra SE. I have recently put in Boston Pro 6.5's. I was wanting to buy the 4inch to go with the set, but from an install standpoint dont want to do much cutting. I have heard a lot of hype about qforms, and was wondering if this was a good solution. Right now I have the 6.5 and tweeter in the stock 6.5 location. The tweeter is installed using the axis mount option right to the frame of the 6.5. If I installed in kick panels, I would move the 4inch and tweeter to the kicks, and keep the 6.5 in the door. Would this be a nice sounding setup? Are the Qforms any good? What does it typically cost to have them installed and colored to match? Is it worth doing to add the 4inch Boston to the mix? I am looking strictly for SQ. Thanks much!
Posts: 51 | From: Voorhees, NJ | Registered: Jul 2002
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You cannot go wrong with the Boston Pros! I have a few questions about your intended setup though.
1. Are you planning on purchasing the Pro 6.53 set or ... Did you want to stay with your current 6.5 set and add the 4.5 set into qforms?
The suggested price on the qforms is typically $139 - $199 from what I've seen. I puchased mine on Ebay for $60 though, so it might be worth the look. As for color matching, you could always shoot it with some vinyl paint. The kicks are designed to replace the stock panels. Depending on your car, you may (or not) have to relocate the hood/trunk release latch. Should take no more than 1 hour to install. It may also help to pour some resin on the backside of the panels to stiffen them up. Or, spray some undercoat or other sound dampening spray.
About the setup, Boston recommends that you keep the tweet and midrange as close as possible. Also, keep the drivers as far forward as possible, to ensure a good musical blend. Hope this helps!
-------------------- Ford F-150 Clarion DRx9575z Clarion DPH 7500z Kicker KQ30 Kicker ZR600 & ZR240 & DX700 BostonAcoustics 6.53 Pro Series BostonAcoustics 5.5 Pro Series 1 12" Kicker L7 Posts: 44 | From: Tamuning, Guam | Registered: Mar 2001
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I am thinking I will just buy the4.5MR driver. Then I just need to decide what to do for cross overs. I would look to put the tweeter and 4.5 in the Q Forms, and place the 6.5 in the stock 6.5 door cutout. I think this should keep things tight enough together that it will sound good. Right now I have the tweeter axis mounted to the driver in the stock door cutout. With rearfill coming from bostonRM6's These will be driven by a JL 300/4 at least for now. Trying to decide from an SQ standpoint what to do for subs, and sub amplification. I dont want a drop off between the 6.5's and the subs, and I am looking for something really nice and tight. Not really worried about SPL, though on occasion I guess it may be nice (though I cant think of what that occasion would be yet).
This is for a 96 integra, from the looks of it, I dont see why I would have to move the hood release, so I am way lucky there, should cut down on install time and or costs depending if I even find the time to do it myself or not.
Posts: 51 | From: Voorhees, NJ | Registered: Jul 2002
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I believe you may be able to purchase the 6.53 crossover separately. One of the coolest features about this crossever is the bi-amp feature. Instead of buying the whole set, I think you'll be able to save some $$$ on buying the 4.5MR and 6.53 X-overs only.
I think that the bi-amp feature could help you ensure that that the frequency gap may be a little less wider since it powers the 6.5 midbass separately. The only downside is that you'll have to get another amp to do this.
What I would suggest is running your 300/4 to the Pros and buying a smaller amp for the RM6's.
The Pros love power and you'll really hear and feel the difference.
-------------------- Ford F-150 Clarion DRx9575z Clarion DPH 7500z Kicker KQ30 Kicker ZR600 & ZR240 & DX700 BostonAcoustics 6.53 Pro Series BostonAcoustics 5.5 Pro Series 1 12" Kicker L7 Posts: 44 | From: Tamuning, Guam | Registered: Mar 2001
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So 1 Channel to Left tweeter and 4", 1 channel to left 6.5, 1 channel to right tweeter and 4", and 1 channel to right 6.5? If I do that what kind of power do I put to the rears? 50x2 sound good for rear fill? The front setup sounds SWEET! I didnt realise that they had that setup on those crossovers. Damn I need to replace my old head unit for some more pre outs! Though I imagine with that all running the front, I can split the front pre out, and not loose fader control. The more I listen to my bostons, and the more I learn about them, the happier I am with the purchase! I went and looked at the RM6's again, and to be honest I am considering doing the pro 5.5's instead. I dont think it really would make too much a difference in the car I have now, but I plan to move to something larger like a Lincoln LS or something, and I think then it would make a difference, especially for rear passengers. Right now, I never have anyone in the tiny back of my crappy car. Thanks for all the advice!
Posts: 51 | From: Voorhees, NJ | Registered: Jul 2002
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Actually, unless I misunderstood your last post, when you biamp, you need to DEDICATE a channel to EACH component (ie, one channel to the mid, one to the tweeter of each set)..
Here's a quote ripped from this site (which is dealing with a home audio environment, but the ideas can be applied to car audio):
1. To double the current capability by using a second identical amp (vertical biamping).
2. To provide more power to the system by using a high-powered amp for the woofers and lower-powered amp for the highs (horizontal biamping).
3. To match the characteristics of the amplifiers to the drivers. For example, an amp with a smooth treble could be mated to an amp with a powerful bottom end. highs (horizontal biamping)
4. The use of an active crossover in biamping removes the limitations of passive components.
Vertical biamping
In vertical biamping, both channels of a stereo amp are used on one speaker. Vertical bi-amping thus needs two completely identical stereo amps, one for the right speaker, one for the left. Each amplifier has the same signal (left or right output) but one of the channels is fed the high range while the other is fed the low range.
The purpose of vertical biamping is to reduce the current demand on an amp. Because the main current draw is in the low frequencies, each power amp in a vertical setup only drives one woofer. The channel driving the woofer gets to hog most of the current provided by the amp's power supply, since the channel driving the high frequencies doesn't need as much current. This is particularly advantageous if the amp uses a common power supply for both channels. Vertical biamping in this manner requires identical amps for each channel to maintain balance integrity."
-------------------- -Nakamichi CD 700 -A/D/S/ 346is (fronts, vertically bi-amped) -(2) Esoteric Audio E7152 amps (vertically bi-amped for fronts) -(1) Nakamichi PA-8001 (1000w @ 1 ohm) -(4)Soundstream Reference SS10RL Limited Edition subs running free-air (receiving @250W each) -(3)Lightening Audio capacitors:1 one farad (sub amps), two .25 farad (fronts) -AudioQuest 401 Series directional solid-core speaker cable -Monster Microlink interconnect cable -Monster 4 gauge power cable throughout -A s**tload of Scoche Accumat -Lots of spray foam to deaden/stiffen cavities in trunk and A pillars -Sonic bliss Posts: 79 | From: New Rochelle, NY | Registered: Dec 2000
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