Termpro Audio Forum Post New Topic  Post A Reply
my profile | directory login | register | faq | forum home

  next oldest topic   next newest topic
» Termpro Audio Forum » Installer's Corner » Installation Tips, Tricks, & Techniques » False Floor amp rack........

 - UBBFriend: Email this page to someone!    
Author Topic: False Floor amp rack........
AudioBumZ
Senior Member
Member # 4506

Icon 4 posted      Profile for AudioBumZ   Email AudioBumZ   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Hey all, I was wanting to build a false floor in the cab of my truck just behind the front seats for my amp rack. Did anyone get May 2001 Car Audio and Electronics mag.? If so, look on page 115. This is something similiar to what I had in mind but I am not sure how to make it look that smooth. Also it looks as if they sunk it into the floor and i was wanting to raise the floor. I am not sure how to do that without it being "boxey" on the sides and front. Is this going to be a fiberglass project? Anyone ever done anything like this before? Got any pics or drawings you be willing to share??? Thanks in advance..........

------------------
Why is it the more I like it, the more she hates it?

Craig


Posts: 5534 | From: CO | Registered: Apr 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Mabeita
Senior Member
Member # 3988

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Mabeita   Email Mabeita   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
In order to have the end result not be too boxey, you're going to have to break out the fiberglass.

For starters I'd plan out everything before you removed the first scerw or cut your first piece of wood.

I'd probably start by pulling the carpet out of the vehicle, finding a good match for it and plan on replacing the entire rear portion, the current carpet will not have enough pliability to cover the additional height of the new floor. Then make a cardboard mock-up of the proposed new rack, paying extra attention to the contours of the floor getting as close as possible, for the absolute best fit.

The floor area of the entire rack and surrounding bezel area, should be at least 2" wider and taller than that of the actual mounting area that will remain visible when the project is completed. This will allow you to slope the sides into the surrounding floor, remember to keep the area around any mounting holes clear, and well marked during the entire construction process, you don't want any necessary access denied when you're done.If you can allow a wider floor trim, then do so, it will lessen the visual impact of the addition to the floor.

As far as depth is concerned, this will depend on the product that will be showcased inside the new rack. Try to keep it to a minimum, even with careful planning and good construction techniques, this thing will get really big when you start adding depth.

And finally, remember to build in some sort of cooling system, for this project to look cool you're going to need to keep the profile as low as possible. Give some consideration to using a product like the Dynamat Extreme, the aluminum laminate will really help to keep the heat from under the car rising up and heating your amplifiers for you. A space this shallow will have little air circulating in it to help keep amps cool, build in fans to pull air in and push air out, this will keep the system running cool.

As is usually the case, there are too many other things to cover, but if you plan right and consider everything, you'll be able to work it all out before you get started on what will no doubt be an awesome rack. If you need more info or other ideas let me know, I'll do what I can.

------------------
hometown.aol.com/mjaxxl/myhomepage/howto.html
audioexpressusa.com
Mabeita@audioexpressusa


Posts: 1706 | From: Phoenix, AZ USA | Registered: Feb 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
AudioBumZ
Senior Member
Member # 4506

Icon 1 posted      Profile for AudioBumZ   Email AudioBumZ   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Isnt your name Mike? I think that is what I have heard people call you. Anyhow, I agree that the cardboard mock-up would be great. It would allow the designer to "see" what it will look like and allow for more flexibility to alter the looks a little bit if it isnt just right. It also allows you to "build" at next to nothing in time and materials. What I am curious about though, is how do you go about "building" with cardboard. It isnt thick enough to screw together. Do you just use liquid nail or something to hold all the pieces together?

As far as the Dynamat Extreme, I was planning on ordering the B-Quiet Extreme. Is this product just as good? The web site says it is.

Also when you stated the fact of replacing the rear carpet, I had that in mind already. Like you said it wouldnt be pliable enough to add the extra dimensions in there. How would I get a seamless look though from the front carpet to the rear carpet? Would I just use some carpet tape and Iron like you would for your house or what?

Appreciate all your help on this. I am not even ready to start this project yet still a couple months away, but the way I figure it, if I got all my plans on paper and think my way though it a million times before it gets here I shouldnt encounter any problems. For me it's all about doing it right the first time and making it look spectacular.

Thanks for all your help and patience.

------------------
Why is it the more I like it, the more she hates it?

Craig


Posts: 5534 | From: CO | Registered: Apr 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Mabeita
Senior Member
Member # 3988

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Mabeita   Email Mabeita   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
The cardboard is temporary, just tape things together then cut it apart and use the cardboard as templates for your final pieces made out of MDF or whatever you decide to do.

Any insulating mastic will help to keep the heat down. What's important is the foil, this is what reflects the extra heat.

As for how and where to seam the carpet, the seaming tape should work, but a strip of linen or broadcloth and some contact cement will work as well. Use the cloth to join the two pieces of carpet together, remember to verify the direction of the carpets bias(natural direction of fiber lay). Another thing to try is placing the seam under the front seats, there will be less possibility of anyone noticing a seam in that location.

L8,
Mike

------------------
hometown.aol.com/mjaxxl/myhomepage/howto.html
audioexpressusa.com
Mabeita@audioexpressusa


Posts: 1706 | From: Phoenix, AZ USA | Registered: Feb 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
AudioBumZ
Senior Member
Member # 4506

Icon 1 posted      Profile for AudioBumZ   Email AudioBumZ   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote 
Thanks

------------------
Why is it the more I like it, the more she hates it?

Craig


Posts: 5534 | From: CO | Registered: Apr 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

Quick Reply
Message:

HTML is not enabled.
UBB Code™ is enabled.

Instant Graemlins
   


Post New Topic  Post A Reply Close Topic   Feature Topic   Move Topic   Delete Topic next oldest topic   next newest topic
 - Printer-friendly view of this topic
Hop To:


(c) 1996-2007 WHE Inc, Carson City Nevada, USA

Powered by Infopop Corporation
UBB.classic™ 6.7.2