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This may seem like an elementary question but help a guy out. I've been thinking of running another amp in my car. Right now I have a RF Punch 360.2 going to 2 RF XLC's. I have a pair of Sony Mobile ES 6x9's and am thinking about running an amp to them. Can someone explain to me on how to install another amp to the system in means of the power wire, remote wire and what not.
Posts: 2875 | From: Moberly, MO | Registered: Dec 1999
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posted
As far as power cable, if the run from the battery is large enough for both amps to run off, you can buy a distribution block (fused or unfused) that will allow multiple amps to attach to it. In the event the main wire is too small for 2 amps you can either run a second wire to the battery for the new amp or replace the current one with a bigger wire and use the original wire after the distribution block. For the 360a2, it should have it's own 8ga wire for sure. Unless the new amp is very small, you will need either a separate power wire for the new amp or you need to upgrade the main cable to 4ga. The remote wire can simply be split. If you have more than 3 or so components, a relay may need to be added..
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And that's the bottom line, cuz: LORD DUKK SAYS SO!
The Big Show The Dukk says: Know your bass: PORT your damn box!! Have HoleSaw, Will Travel!
posted
Dukk, for the power cable for the 360a2, can I run a 4ga wire from my battery to a distribution block then use the 8ga from the distribution block to the amps. Also with the remote when you say "split" it do you mean just splice into it with another wire and run to the other or amp? What type of wire would be necessary?
Posts: 2875 | From: Moberly, MO | Registered: Dec 1999
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posted
I would think that 4 guage back and 8 guage to each amp would be satisfatory. Yes just splicing the remote line is satisfatory. Generally all you need to do is run one 14 to 18 guage wire from front to rear and split it between the amps. Just make the splice safe from shorting to the chassis or other wires. And try to loom it for extra protection.
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Well I already have the remote line ran from the head unit. So if I run 4ga from the battery to a distribution block and 8 ga from the block to each amp it should work. Then with the remote just splice into it with some 18ga wire and run it to the other amp and I should be good to go.
Posts: 2875 | From: Moberly, MO | Registered: Dec 1999
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posted
Don't forget, your ground wire needs to be as large as your power wire.
------------------ Jeff President, Sweet Sounds Inc. Team Sweet Sounds is gathering information....all are welcome Authorized Dealer for Cerwin Vega, Image Dynamics, Clarion Pro Audio, Stinger, Hifonics, Digital Designs, Memphis and more.....
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Jeff Hey I don't live to far away from you. Maybe I can come and look at the store sometime. I'm about 2 hours away. Do you ever check your email?
[This message has been edited by jschmillen (edited 01-02-2000).]
Posts: 2875 | From: Moberly, MO | Registered: Dec 1999
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posted
Most decks use a very low current transistor for the remote on. In fact, Pioneer fuses theirs with only a 0.5amp fuse. I find that once you go over 3 or 4 components it's just better to add a relay (or an outboard transistor) to relieve the deck. You don't wanna pop that fet since it kinda bites to pay a $60 repair bill on a deck that still works otherwise!
To use a relay, go get a Bosche style. The remote from the deck attaches to 85, the remote to the components attaches to 30. Ground 86 and provide B+ to 87 with a small fuse (5 amps or so). The relay will handle up to 30 amps so you can hook up lights or whatever (just increase the fuse size to cover it). There is no connection to 87a in this application.
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And that's the bottom line, cuz: LORD DUKK SAYS SO!
The Big Show The Dukk says: Know your bass: PORT your damn box!! Have HoleSaw, Will Travel!
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