posted
Does anyone have a good way to build a sub enclosure into a door that will sound good but not be too permanent and not damage the door. My truck ('98 Chevy) is a lease and I will probably keep it when the lease is up (another 2 years), but in the event that I don't, I want to be able to put it back to stock again. This is just an idea, but any suggestions are appreciated.
------------------ inno73@hotmail.com
Posts: 490 | From: Fort Frances, Ontario, Canada | Registered: May 1999
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posted
have you look into thoes XTC foam baffles, something like that could work for you, and you would be able to return it to a stock condition
------------------ spydermann
Don't get caught in the WEB Gimmie some bass baby keep you RF and others, MTX for me Is that me in the top 10 now?? Do you smell what the BASS is cooking...
Posts: 6799 | From: cincinnati, oh, USA | Registered: Jun 1999
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posted
I've got a picture from the ROCS website that shows them installing 2 15's in a guys DOOR in his car! Seriously!
Posts: 5349 | From: Nash-Vegas, TN | Registered: May 1999
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I seen that pic buzz. I had to ask and make sure that was not a misprint.
------------------ Looking to buy used Termpak and mics and sound card!! Robert (Rob) 1996 Chevy Cavlier 2.2L proaudio150@aol.com Member Of "Team Gates" and "Team Shockwave" USAC Sactioned Judge -----Judged----- 1999 Spring Break Nationals 1999 Midwest Regional http://www.sounddomain.com/5349 My up and coming SQ and SPL system.
posted
I wasn't gonna go nuts, maybe just one 8 in each door, probably ported. I've had subs behind the seat (regular cab), and you just can't seem to get a believable "bass up front" illusion with bass pounding into your back from behind. Any other placement ideas?
[This message has been edited by Inno (edited 12-27-1999).]
Posts: 490 | From: Fort Frances, Ontario, Canada | Registered: May 1999
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posted
souldn't be to bad esspacaily if you go with some subs that aren't deep
------------------ spydermann
Don't get caught in the WEB Gimmie some bass baby keep you RF and others, MTX for me Is that me in the top 10 now?? Do you smell what the BASS is cooking...
Posts: 6799 | From: cincinnati, oh, USA | Registered: Jun 1999
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posted
spydermann...you might want to ask hccaintegra aka Team Xtreme Pro about that. He has done a few cars with 8's in the doors. They were setup for midbass in sq cars but he might be able to give ya some extra insite. His email is hccaintegra@webtv.net
------------------ Looking to buy used Termpak and mics and sound card!! Robert (Rob) 1996 Chevy Cavlier 2.2L proaudio150@aol.com Member Of "Team Gates" and "Team Shockwave" USAC Sactioned Judge -----Judged----- 1999 Spring Break Nationals 1999 Midwest Regional http://www.sounddomain.com/5349 My up and coming SQ and SPL system.
posted
I agree with Dukk, at least as far as large woofers are concerned. Care needs to be taken, especially on large doors (camaros, t-birds, you know, large doors?) not to add too much weight on an already underengineered factory hinge. By the time you add your door damping mat, spray damping, enclosure, woofer and baffle, how much more will your door weigh? A couple of extra pouds can mean a shorter life span for your hinges, leaving you with a door that fell off on the ground, or suicide doors...
------------------ STILL waiting to hear a GOOD pair of HLCD's!!
If it dont fit, force it... if it breaks, it needed to be replaced anyway...
posted
Ur problem is u are able to locate the bass?
The first things I'd check before buying more stuff is the xover. At what frequency do u filter the subs? If the filter is at like 100Hz, then u'd wanna try a lower xover. If u xover at like 70Hz then it's no point in trying a lower xover frequency.
Another subject for change would be the "steepness" of the xover. Do u use a single coil for xover? If so u have a 6dB/octave filter, which isn't much. If u use a built-in (in the amp) xover, it probably it 12dB/octave. The 12db filter usuallly is enough. But when prob's such as urs occur a 24db filter often helps.
Try this b4 buin' more speakers. It's better to have a few speakers performing max then several that's not playing optimum.
posted
All my past vehicles have been trucks,so I've had this same dilema before. I have thought of, but not tried, a bandpass box mounted basically anywhere(maybe underneath vehicle) with a somewhat long port entering the vehicle in maybe the center counsole, or in the kicks. I'm sure it would be tough, and some obviosly don't like bandpass bass, but it sureley would take care of up front bass. Just a thought.
------------------ If better is possible, good is never enough
Posts: 141 | From: Bloomsburg, PA, USA | Registered: Dec 1999
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posted
I used a Zapco SX-SL processor for my filtering, and generally, I set subs below 80hz, especially if the face of the subs share my airspace (that is, not in the trunk of a car facing rear), 'cause I hate some of the noises they can make. In other words, subs don't make great midbass speakers.
Only trouble with bandpass is the size. I'm sure I could create one that would satisfy my sound craving, although I don't prefer them.
I'll just keep thinking about it, something will come to me.
Thanks all!
------------------ inno73@hotmail.com
Posts: 490 | From: Fort Frances, Ontario, Canada | Registered: May 1999
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posted
Personally I don't recommend subwoofers in doors for the following reasons. The added weight will cause many two door cars to sag, and in many cases break the hinges. The slaming of the door, can usually cause the weight of the speaker, to shear the screws off the metal to which they are fastened. Making an effective cabinet in a door, while keeping the window operational is extremely difficult to say the least. These may be some of the reasons, but not to say that it hasn't been done successfuly.
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E.C. Wuz here
[This message has been edited by Eli47 (edited 01-01-2000).]
Posts: 1057 | From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada 'eh | Registered: May 1999
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posted
How could there possibly be enough airspace in the door for even one of those 15s, let alone 2?
As I was waking up this morning, I kinda had an idea. Make a box for behind the seat, but instead of the sub facing directly into the seat, have it angled to one side. Actually I planned almost the whole system in my head, everything just kinda came together. When that happens, I usually go with it and it sounds good!
------------------ inno73@hotmail.com
Posts: 490 | From: Fort Frances, Ontario, Canada | Registered: May 1999
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posted
use an aper. set up with soem big amps and then there will be enough space
------------------ spydermann
Don't get caught in the WEB Gimmie some bass baby keep you RF and others, MTX for me Is that me in the top 10 now?? Do you smell what the BASS is cooking...
Posts: 6799 | From: cincinnati, oh, USA | Registered: Jun 1999
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posted
I've got a 91 Ford Explorer that I tried to bring the bass up front. I had no stock center console, so i built a decent looking console to house a single 8" JL W3. Not only does it bring the bass up front, but sealed, it Plays a good range. I like the impact I get off of the W3. Until I tried it, I never really liked JL, Now I think twice.
Posts: 101 | From: Overland Park, Kansas | Registered: Jan 2000
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posted
Well if them 15's could do mid bass well..I dare a judge to say you dont have enough mid bass. Or not give you points for creative install local..lol
------------------ Looking to buy used Termpak and mics and sound card!! Robert (Rob) 1996 Chevy Cavlier 2.2L proaudio150@aol.com Member Of "Team Gates" and "Team Shockwave" USAC Sactioned Judge -----Judged----- 1999 Spring Break Nationals 1999 Midwest Regional http://www.sounddomain.com/5349 My up and coming SQ and SPL system.
posted
What type of seats do you have in your truck? Naturally a full bench seat will absorb sound and vibrations!Try using bucket seats with no center console or even bench seats with the fold down center console.They would give more open areas for sound waves to enter the front of the cabin so you dont have to worry about damaging anything expensive.
Posts: 29 | From: Waco,Texas,USA | Registered: Jan 2000
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