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What is the proper way to crimp a 0 gauge terminal to a 0 gauge power wire? Also is it ok to solder the terminal after it has been crimped?
Posts: 209 | From: OH | Registered: Nov 2003
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With Solder, I wouldnt try and smash it, however there is cripping tool where you use a hammer. I have used this tool when I worked for shop years ago!
-------------------- The debate between Christians and athiest's has never been an intelectual one, but a moral one. When presented with evidence that they have no answer for they just sling mud and call us stupid! Posts: 694 | From: Michigan | Registered: Jul 2008
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yep. a good hammercrimp like that works great. another way is to hammer it flat on an anvil or flat portion of a vice, then turn it over and use a hammer and a nail-flusher/punch to make a few punctures/dents. and soldering with a MAPP torch is the best. don't expect a regular solder gun to work well
Posts: 5494 | From: Columbus, OH - formerly FL | Registered: Oct 2003
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can i get one of those hammer crimpers at home depot or do i have to order it online?
Posts: 209 | From: OH | Registered: Nov 2003
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no idea. my guess would be not at home depot. but if you're close to one you could go take a look.
Posts: 5494 | From: Columbus, OH - formerly FL | Registered: Oct 2003
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I'm confused? You can buy it from the link I gave you, it's 17 bucks and some change.
-------------------- The debate between Christians and athiest's has never been an intelectual one, but a moral one. When presented with evidence that they have no answer for they just sling mud and call us stupid! Posts: 694 | From: Michigan | Registered: Jul 2008
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I have checked with Home Depot and Lowes around here and neither had them. I would check with someone even like Grainger if you have one around you. If not then use the tried and true method of smashing it closed and then diviting it, cheapest and quickest way to do it.
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I've always just used a hammer and a concrete floor...
If you have to do it in the car you can crimp the good ones kind of easily if they have the split ends and use normal crimpers to crimp em down nice and tight.
I've never soldered a 0 gauge wire and I've never had anything fall out or mess up on me lol
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Posts: 8168 | From: Russellville AL | Registered: Nov 2002
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I use a bench vice and the square edge on one of my hole punches and I get really good results
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Solder it! Put the terminal in a vice or hold with vice grips. Heat the cup with a burnz-o-matic torch(home depot) feed heavy gauge plumbing solder into cup till its half full of melted solder then insert wire into cup and allow to air cool. Make sure ring terminal cup is clean before soldering.
Posts: 503 | From: streetsboro,oh | Registered: Jun 2005
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I just hammer the thing flat as a pancake. Im using cheap wire thats about as flexible as re-bar, and nothing has come undone yet.
Posts: 296 | From: Tampa, Florida | Registered: Jul 2006
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quote:Originally posted by tekk45: Solder it! Put the terminal in a vice or hold with vice grips. Heat the cup with a burnz-o-matic torch(home depot) feed heavy gauge plumbing solder into cup till its half full of melted solder then insert wire into cup and allow to air cool. Make sure ring terminal cup is clean before soldering.
the thing is that plumbing solder doesn't actually solder unless you use flux.
All you are doing is dripping solder on top of everything if you are using plumbing solder
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Posts: 8168 | From: Russellville AL | Registered: Nov 2002
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Ive always done it this way and never had a ring terminal get loose or fall off. I heat the cup and feed solder into it till it is half full then push the 0 gauge wire into the cup and allow to cool. Works perfect every time. I also extended 16 runs of 0 gauge using copper pipe and this method in my own car.
Team Neo - Eric
Posts: 503 | From: streetsboro,oh | Registered: Jun 2005
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The solder doesn't really stick that great to ANY type of copper unless you use flux.
Try it next time...its cheap and you just brush it on before you start soldering, the flux actually pulls the solder into/around the bead and makes life so much easier
My family owns a plumbing/heating and air business and if you don't use flux when you try to solder to copper the solder will eventually start to "run" off and not pull into the piece you're soldering
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Posts: 8168 | From: Russellville AL | Registered: Nov 2002
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I wouldn't bother smashing it with a hammer because that would do poor job. A bench vice would do good because i use it all the time i get good results and connections seem to be working very good.
I did soldering before with torch and heat up the back of the ring and this not eazy to do. Take times and practice. You don't want to burn up the insulation on the wire. I prefer using a bench vise because it do the job for me good all the time.
Posts: 32 | From: ontario | Registered: Jun 2009
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quote:Originally posted by Heavybass99: I wouldn't bother smashing it with a hammer because that would do poor job. A bench vice would do good because i use it all the time i get good results and connections seem to be working very good.
I did soldering before with torch and heat up the back of the ring and this not eazy to do. Take times and practice. You don't want to burn up the insulation on the wire. I prefer using a bench vise because it do the job for me good all the time.
all the connections we've ever done in everyone of my spl installs, Steve Cooks installs, and all the vehicles we've built have just had the ends hammered down.
Put the wire in there get on a concrete floor and smash it flat, best connection EVER
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Posts: 8168 | From: Russellville AL | Registered: Nov 2002
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Best connection is to use a thick copper bar and drill 0 gauge holes in order to fit the wires in .Then use some allen bolts to secure the wire by tightening.The voltage drop is less compared to that with the use of terminals...
Sorry for the offtopic...Anyway i always used a hammer and a thick steel flat plate to secure the terminals to the wire end...Never had a bad connection that way...if you use solder you could face some loses in the current...Not significant if you have a battery bank close to your amp/amps but very important if you are using 1 battery and it's 10ft away from the amp/rack...We are talking about 0.2-0.3 Volt less in the amp input in the second case even if you are using multiple wire runs!
-------------------- Dbdragracing is not a sport... IT'S A CURSE! 2009 WF 5th place Posts: 433 | From: ATHENS GREECE | Registered: Oct 2003
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quote:Originally posted by Kartunes WI: Buy a 1/0 crimping tool from aamp or snap on????? That would be the proper way to do it.
If you are talking about the "pneumatic" crimpers then all they do is give a 4 side crimp that isn't even that far into the terminal.
I guess really it depends on the terminal you use, if you are using one of the 0 gauge terminals with a split in the connector you can actually hit or crimp one side down and then fold the other over and crimp it down over the first one.
This is what I do when I hammer them down.
If you are using the brass/copper fittings then solder would be the way to go
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Posts: 8168 | From: Russellville AL | Registered: Nov 2002
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We've used those before, Cook has a pair and I have one of the ones Scosche used to make, when you are wiring up 40 amps you don't have time to take 5 minutes to try to work the crimper by yourself.
Also we've had them pull out when you pull on them hard enough, I'll try to get a pic of one of the ones I smashed down with a hammer tonight
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Posts: 8168 | From: Russellville AL | Registered: Nov 2002
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