posted
^^^^ I hear you lol, are you running 4 runs of 0/1 gauge? wow, thats a lot of fuses Posts: 279 | From: western washington | Registered: Mar 2005
| IP: Logged |
-------------------- 09 World Finals Judge - Tulsa 08 World Finals Judge - Laughlin 07 World Finals Judge - San Mateo Team Treo www.myspace.com/boominaudio Posts: 3607 | From: Shows from 909 to 208 | Registered: Jan 2003
| IP: Logged |
posted
I have no fuses in any of my power runs. BUT, my runs are in the center of the car, so, if I was in an accident and the wire int he center of the car got pinched, the wire would be the last of my concerns...
quote:Originally posted by VegaS10: I have no fuses in any of my power runs. BUT, my runs are in the center of the car, so, if I was in an accident and the wire int he center of the car got pinched, the wire would be the last of my concerns...
posted
In the old setup in my Cavy,I ran a power from the frt to the rear into a distor block as well as a trunk battery that fed into the distro block as well.Then off the distro block off to the amp.
For Grd.,I ran from front battery to rear shock mount,from there I had it split off to both the trunk battery and the amp,thus making the chassis a ground block.
As well I ran 2 extra grounds off the frt. battery to help out as well.Also a beefer power cable to the alt. on top of the stock one....
Never had a problem with it....
Still tinkering in the new vehicle...just a basic setup in there right now.....for now...
-------------------- "I wish I could change my user name" Zero Hurtz Car Audio Forum http://zerohurtz.tripod.com/ Posts: 380 | From: Calgary | Registered: Nov 2003
| IP: Logged |
posted
In my street B truck, I have 8 runs of pos. and 8 runs of ground going from the front battery to bussbars in the back.
I got no spl gain after 4 runs each, but I did however see a noticable difference in the amount of voltage drop I saw. 8 runs for some reason or another stabalized the voltage a little better and caused less of a voltage drop.
posted
The single biggest 'wire' in the vehicle, Is the sheetmetal. And if you ever look under the dash, you'll see an aweful lot of things connected to this 'wire'. Then you'll see what connections are made to get that sheetmetal to the battery. Quite inferior! Let alone the resistance that steel vs high strand cable compares to. And if you think about that, all the things sharing the sheetmetal ground, vs a direct 'high flow ground cable' , what would be most likely to pick up induced noise? The statement of 'electrons flowing on the surface of the metal rather than through it, is one thing to keep in mind. It is 100% true, that is. So, the more runs of positive and negative cables you have , not only do you continue to reduce the resistance - but the faster you allow yer electrons, er uh- yer high current-to flow and do it's thing!
posted
Suit yourself, but not fusing wire runs in your daily driver could be a serious hazard if you get t-boned in an accident and your 1/0 cables decide to start welding your car just as the fuel is leaking all over you. Not good.
If you don't run power cable for both positive and negative and use the chassis for your negative return then at least be smart and use real thick ground cables between your amps and the rear chassis and use the same size cables from your engine block to the chassis and from the battery negative terminal to the chassis. In many cases the factory ground strap from the battery to chassis and/or motor to chassis (if you have isolated engine mounts) isn't good enough.
Current runs in a loop so if you have a positive cable the size of a fire hose and a negative run the size of a garden hose it's not going to flow sh*t. My 2 cents.
Posts: 151 | From: W. Vancouver, BC, Canada | Registered: Aug 2002
| IP: Logged |
![[Embarrassed]](redface.gif)
![[Cool]](cool.gif)
![[Wink]](wink.gif)
Printer-friendly view of this topic